The images primarily show the difference in color response of orthochromatic and panchromatic emulsions. You can not get the same response onthe two films. If you want the look of the HP5+, use it, not orthochromatic x-ray film.
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The images primarily show the difference in color response of orthochromatic and panchromatic emulsions. You can not get the same response onthe two films. If you want the look of the HP5+, use it, not orthochromatic x-ray film.
Is anyone familiar with Fuji dry imaging film? Can it be developed conventionally?
Well I don't mind some of the contrast but there in the crook of the tree it went completely black, that isn't just because it is Ortho film, it's because I need to adjust my process to lower the contrast. I've seen some BEAUTIFUL imagery by one lady who's shooting something in the 14x17 range size cameras portraits, and they look Increadibly smooth and low contrast, so I know it can be done with ortho film, I'll try the yellow filter trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
No, it cannot be developed conventionally. It relies on heat to reveal the image.
Great video Andrew, very informativeQuote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Could you share link, if its not too much trouble? I am always looking for interesting portraiture photographersQuote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
I wish I could right now, unfortunately Facebook recently blocked me from access because they said my name "Stone NYC" was not the name I go by and real-life, I assume when they say that they mean my giving legal name, however this is the name I go by real life and anyway they have blocks access until that whole thing is sorted out, and I only know her through Facebook and a large-format group on Facebook. she has a very unique name and I'm not quite sure how to spell it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
I'll try to remember if and when I gain access to Facebook again and will look her up and post here.
If a portion went completely black, it is under-exposed. Since shadows are inherently blue, adding a yellow filter will only cause it to get even less exposure.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
I suggest exposing for the shadows, developing for the highlights........
I would obviously compensate for the filter factor, but yes, that was my point, my metering was no different between the two films that I used, the only thing that changed was the exposure index I chose to use with each found in the development time, I'm finding that the ektascan (supposedly roughly normally an ASA100 film) shot at EI 80, is still not enough, so might have to go to EI50, however using Rodinal, I'm running into development times that would be difficult, under 5 minutes for EI 50. I'm going to experiment with diluting 1:100 instead of 1:50 to avoid this issue, but I'm worried about the small amount of developer, 1:100 with 300ml of developer for 5 sheets of 8x10 ektascan might put me in the exhausted developer arena, though perhaps that would be good and would fix this contrast issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Anyway, I won't have time to "experiment" as much for a while but will try something different next time.
Yes, I know, but first you have to know what the true speed of the film is for daylight AND a good dev starting point, I've seen lots of people with various opinions about that but I haven't seen their negatives to know the densities they find acceptable etc, best to test until you can get it down yourself for your own personal tastes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran