Heh. Don't know why I didn't think about that. But giving it some though, I am worried about any developer between the bottom emulsion and glass. There is no way for the stop to reach it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeFehr
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Heh. Don't know why I didn't think about that. But giving it some though, I am worried about any developer between the bottom emulsion and glass. There is no way for the stop to reach it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeFehr
There's no problem with the stop reaching the back side. Think of it the other way around-- if you didn't want stop on the back side of the film, how effective would putting the negative on a piece of glass be in preventing it? Not very effective, it turns out. The stop gets to the back side the same way the developer does in the developing tray. Give it a whirl!Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneStevenson
Jim -- thanks. The 2 minute negative was exposed under a 750W self-ballasted reflector Merc Vapor lamp. I hope I don't have to write that again! We went for an hour and the print was a little over-exposed -- some Sodium carbonate was used to reduce the print. The tissue was 6gr lampblack paint to 750lm water and 90 grams of gelatin -- brush sentitized w/ 2% Am Dicho. It might look good at 4%. I do not have the print available to scan. Carbon prints were properly exposed using the 4 minute exposure negative, but the highlights (it was a back-lit scene) were unsharp in what I thought was an unpleasant way. The prints looked almost locally solarized in the highlight areas.
A second image was made the same day using the same film, but more out in the light along the creek and without the large dark areas needing detail as the other image needed. The negative with one extra stop printed nicely. The one with an additional stop exposure I did not bother trying as the neg did not look good due to the over-exposure.
As a rule of thumb, I expose by finding the largest shadow area I want detail in and expose that on Zone III. I figure there will be smaller areas that will fall into lower zones to give the print some snap. Then, hopefully I read my lab notes on processing successful negatives (or failures) with similar SBR and develop at the dilution and time that seems best.
Vaughn
Vaughn, this is what I do when exposing my Efke-25. I just finished printing a negative from Yosemite. The valley in fog. A great scene. I posted the digital shot on FB. My print was exposed @ 1400 units on the Nuarc 26 1ks. About 40 minutes or 50 I'm not sure. Two 700 unit exposures. I used a 16 gram tissue and 1 1/2% dichromate. Natural lighting was soft and had no real contrast extremes. I managed a great print with this combo. Only problem is a little pigment in the small piece of sky in the image. I can crop that out as it is not much and the image is worth it. I reduced the print as well to give it some pop!
Back-lit scenes are tough to expose and especially print. I feel that you are right on the edge and keeping the highlights tame is not easy even if one is developing by inspection as I do.Love to see the prints. They sound great. I love the challenge of back-lit work. Tests one's skill.
Shot this on 8X10 CSX Green latitude. ISO 50 processed in Coffenol CM for 10 minutes. Neg was increadably thin. Image was almost undectable. How the scanner picked it up, I have no idea. Back to the drawing board.
Attachment 70074
Before the forum was redone a while back, I could post images that would show up, not as thumbnails that you needed to click on to enlarge, but full size. Now, when I click on the "insert image" icon it gives me the choice of getting the image from my computer or from url. I past in the url but it always posts as a thumbnail image. I can't figure out how to post large images...help!
Out in the country today to get my mind off things.
300mm Gundlach Radar @ f/16, rear tilt and swing. Fuji green-sensitive film. I think I need to up my development, the highlights are not very good and it was pretty low-contrast before some curves.
http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/...ring/0023s.jpg
CSX Green in coffenol - 150mm Konica Hexanon GRII on 8X10.
I had thrown this under processed neg in the trash after it washed. Dug it out this morning and gave it a scan.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/img567.jpg
I'm really liking some of the things I've been seeing here that have been dipped in some sort of coffee related product.
Does it still smell like a wet roasted cat?
I tried it a while back, but it was a little hard to get past the smell.
I like it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
Lovely frame! I would develop for another minute, rocking the tray the whole 7 minutes. 2 sided negs are THICK so don't be surprised if you can't see them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran