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I exclusively stand develop Kodak CSG (dual sided) in Rodinal 1:100 for 4.5 minutes using the MOD54 in a Patterson tank. I have never noticed bromide drag. The MOD54 does make little scratches on one side of the emulsion at the edges where it contacts the film. A little more care on my part might mitigate that. That doesn't directly address your question, but maybe adds a little info to the knowledge base.Quote:
Originally Posted by seezee
I tried double sided x-ray in the mod54 once. Never again. The lugs of the mod holder leave an impression on the film and due to its design,they're about half an inch into the image frame. The developer doesn't seem to soak into the part of the film that's touched by the lugs and it's really difficult to get the film out without scratching it in addition. In addition, I can't do 8x10 in the mod54 so I gave up on it for this purpose.
As Martin noted, ZZMedical is the other online source for x-ray film. I find their prices are lower and the selection better than their competitors. Page back thru this thread for suggestions on trimming the film for 4×5, and consider using the single-sided film as your entry to x-ray film (to avoid the many complications of double-sided emulsion).Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan9940
I plan to trim & load some Ektascan tonight & will report back with my results once I have developed a few test exposures (package with Rapid Fix should arrive from B&H soon).
UPDATE: it's been raining all afternoon in central Oklahoma, so I took advantage of the cloudy light to trim and load 3 sheets (12 exposures) of Ektaskan. Following Martin's suggestion, I marked the paper trimmer with Dyno tape — that streamlined the process considerably. By the time I got to the second sheet I felt like I was on autopilot.Quote:
Me too.
I use Dyno label tape, 2 pieces on top of each other give enough feel to use as a guide.
I have a cheap rotary cutter marked out for 4x5 and 3 1/4 x 4 1/4.
I just ordered a box of that Carestream 8x10 B/RA film to give it a go.
I wore powderless nitrile gloves to avoid fingerprints & took out only 1 sheet of film at a time to minimize exposure to ambient + red light. Loaded each sheet after trimming, before going on to the next. I worked on the floor below the pedestal sink to block some of the light from the safe light. In the interest of avoiding grit and dirt, I used a large porcelain serving tray to place the trimmed film in, and put an old pillowcase on the floor under the trimmer to catch the cutoffs.
Hope to have some exposure tests next weekend, after the final chemicals & supplies are delivered.
Thank you to everyone that responded to my post. After reading through this entire thread (whew! Lots of good info, though) and finding a couple of reviews on the 'net, I just ordered a box of Kodak Ektascan B/RA from zzmedical. Even though it's a bit more expensive than the "green latitude" film I think, and as others have pointed out, that it's probably the best entry into using this type of film. Also, based on Jim F's strong recommendation to use holders that's how I'm starting out. Holders or trays may not be as critical a decision for this single-sided film, but it seems a good way to start. Now that the cooler weather is finally starting to hit in the desert southwest, I'm really excited to get out with my 8x10 and shoot some film!
Please reply with your details (exposure details, developing method) and post examples images when you get to it. The more info we get on this thread, the easier we make it for future photographers. Best luck on your pictures!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan9940
Quick warning:
Even red LEDs can for film and paper we think is red blind.
I thought since the high intensity LEDs in a bike tail light were red and had a red plastic cover, I would be safe.
NO
Turns out that they emit an appreciable amount of yellow and green when you use a CD as a diffraction grating. These LEDs are way bright---they are a bike safety device--- and from 30" it doesn't take long to fog film or paper. I proved this a couple hours ago making photograms of 35mm stainless film reels on both printing paper and Ektascan B/RA.
Perhaps it is safe to use this light from a distance, but maybe not. This is at least the second time I've been tripped up by in-safe lights!
My dad said the value of experienced is that it enables you to recognize your mistakes when you make them again.
Thanks for confirming what I also found out a couple of weeks ago! Filtering the red light with some rubylith solved it for me. It's comforting to know I at least haven't gone entirely crazy and other people run into the same problem ;)
For what it's worth, Randy Moe recommended this bulb for x-ray film, and I've been very pleased with it. I cut and develop with it and haven't had a bit of fogging. I keep it reasonably far away, of course--usually around 4 - 5 feet or so.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...60-degree/440/
For that price, it's worth just buying it rather than trying to cobble something together that doesn't really work.
Stone Butter Church, Vancouver Island. Ektascan. Pyrocat-HD.