PS: i still believe that under sunny sky (or in shade but with plenty of sun bouncing around) Kodak CSG changes from about 100 to something like 200-250. Its like there is just way too much UV all the sudden ;)
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PS: i still believe that under sunny sky (or in shade but with plenty of sun bouncing around) Kodak CSG changes from about 100 to something like 200-250. Its like there is just way too much UV all the sudden ;)
Just thought I'd throw this out for your consideration.
When I first tried 8X10 X-ray film (because of this wonderful forum) I was inundated with scratches. I soon learned of the different techniques for processing (flat bottom trays, glass bottom trays, gallon zip-lock bags, tubes). I have tried some of these...but...due to my being rather stubborn, I just could not bring myself to process just one sheet at a time.
I just processed (in one session) 6 sheets of double sided CSX (Fugi?) 8X10 X-ray film in 9X11 print processing trays (the kind with raised raised sections on the bottom about 1 1/2" wide), and did not get any scratches...none. I have been using HC-110 1:63.
I set 3 trays in my bathtub, developer, pre-soak / stop, and fix. I pre-soak for about 2 minutes, adding them to the tray one at a time, then add the entire stack to the developer. The dev tray has 1500ml of solution in it.
I agitate (shuffle) by very gently lifting one end of the stack (that is farthest away from me), then sliding the bottom sheet out, being careful to minimize any contact it makes with the edge of the tray or the film on top of it (I do this by holding the end of the top 5 sheets up with my left hand while sliding the bottom sheet out and up with my right hand).
I then lay it on top of the stack and with my fingertips, push it down.
The process of doing this for one sheet takes about 10-12 seconds. With 6 sheets of film, I do this as if I had 7 sheets, after the 7th sheet, I turn the tray 1/4 turn, take about a 15 second break, then repeat (this way the same sheet is never left on the bottom during the break).
When time is up the whole stack goes into the water tray again, same agitation, once through the stack, then I put them into the fix tray one at a time, lifting the top sheet from the water tray and laying it in the fix then push it down with fingertips. Same agitation method is employed once all 6 sheets are in the fix.
Anyway, it can be done if you are slow and gentle enough.
That's good to hear, Randy. I'll have to give it a shot.
Great, good to hear Randy! Gentle is the key, now that i have calmed down and have a nice table to sit at under red light, I can cut X-Ray down to 5x7 and 2x3 without scratches. I do have to watch those holders as many have rough flaps.
I know it's all easy, but with my crappy hands, nothing is easy, even loading.
Sitting down is a big help for me in many tasks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
I've taken a different approach to X-ray development...
I have been using a Jobo for paper development and have become very comfortable with processing film/paper without a darkroom - I wanted something similar to x-ray film.
In the end I bought a Paterson Orbital tank. Not cheap for what it is, but it allows me to process x-ray film without scratches.
As an insurance against internal motion, I use two small balls of blu-tack to hold down 2 diagonal corners.
So far - seems to work really well.
I can only process one 8x10 sheet at a time, but that is a fine trade-off for no scratches.
[http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2879/9...99bd4d38cd.jpg
Yes, in fact it ONLY works with a single side emulsion. I used to only use mammo film which is one sides, but now I also do it with double sided emulsions since I learned how to strip off the side that touches the wall with bleach after developing (it is horribly messed up, but if you just strip it, it doesn't matter).Quote:
Originally Posted by grantflanagan
Fixed up my surge marks due to the trays I was using
put some glass in the bottom and much better result.
Fuji HRT Green: lens G-Claron 270mm
scan of prints: Hindmarsh Falls,Joel
Attachment 101594Attachment 101595
OK, I've finally got my 8x10 up and running. I've done some film speed and development experiments on Fuji HR-T green film and D-76 1:3 6 minutes at about 70-72 degrees and I am getting much slower film speeds that what I was expecting from reading this forum. I had expected a speed of 80 maybe. Or 50. But what I'm getting here is more like a speed of 25 with no filter and ASA 12 or maybe 16 with a K2 yellow filter. I'm perplexed at why I'm not getting the much higher speeds these other guys are. One thing is for sure--this film is tough to get shadow detail with, but I'm doing what I have to to get some. And the speeds I just reported are where I seem to need to be to get that. Any comments? Thanks.
Hi Finley. I do indeed get ~50 ASA on HR-T with Rodinal. I'm not a D-76 fan myself. Not sure if anyone else has done testing with it though.
I have only used Rodinal 1:100,the btzs file I am using for has a film speed of 68 the hindmarsh falls development time was 12 minutesQuote:
Originally Posted by HT Finley
so 68 is in between the 50 and 80 I have not used a filter ( yellow green as yet) my biggest issue was the uneven developments
and thinking is was my restored Kodak 2D, indecently it is now light-tight in every way possible which is not a bad thing in sunny AU.
Bazz8