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Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji HRT Green X-ray Film + Yellow filter + Ilford ID-11
Ilam, Iran 2014
Printable View
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Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji HRT Green X-ray Film + Yellow filter + Ilford ID-11
Ilam, Iran 2014
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Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji HRT Green X-ray Film + Ilford ID-11
Ilam, Iran 2014
Tenderobject,
Excellent landscapes. You make good use of the terrain and trees to serve as leading lines that takes the viewer's gaze into the distance. You also have a beautiful area in which to photograph.
Keith
Very nice, tenderobject. Did you shoot with a filter? Your images look like they were shot on conventional film. Good job!
Hi Andrew, I did in the second to the last picture i posted. I think putting a yellow filter works and it tame the contrast and would benefit my shots because of the scenery. I will research and try other filters. I have Red, Orange and CPL here which i'm clueless if it would work with the X-ray film.
I wouldn't expect to much when using a red or orange filter as X-ray film is not sensitive to red light.
I've only tested up to Kodak Wratten #11 (green). Stronger greens will most likely work. I would also stay away from red. I got blank sheets. Light orange may work, but I've never tried it.
Attachment 113870
A real boring photo but I didn't think anything would come out on my first try with xray film.
Kodak Ektascan in L110
I don't get why people don't think that x-ray film is not as good as panchromatic film. It is orthochromatic, that's the only real difference. It does not respond to a red filter, because ortho film is blind to red light. This makes it easy to develop because you can do it under a ruby light. It was/is called a ruby light because it is pure red. Easiest way to tell if the light is red enough is with a compact disc (cd). Turn on red safe light, hold cd up so you sight across the bands and see what colors are present. This is also helpful for cutting film to fit other sizes, and for loading film holders.
They are two different things and both have a purpose, just like digital and analogue.Quote:
I don't get why people don't think that x-ray film is not as good as panchromatic film
I posted this over at the other xray thread. Carbon transfer print from Kodak Ektascan. Very diute Pyrocat-HD. I really like how the grass and foliage were rendered in light tones. This film is sharp.
One of those shots where everything went wrong, but somehow I still got a picture.
Over exposed, under developed, scratches, drips, bubbles...
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4x5 X-ray
Home-made camera with 13 1/2" Aviar Anastigmat: Red Aviar Camera
Thanks for the info Premortho. I love what i'm getting with X-ray film right now. I think i'll stick with it because it's much cheaper and if i handle it correctly when processed i would get the same result as using a cheap panchromatic film. This film actually reminds me of my 4x5 Arista edu film. I just have to tame the contrast and i'm good with it.
Yes you are right. They are both analogue... I'm just saying they are two different things (panchro and ortho), and both have a purpose.
Thank you tenderobject and rich815. Pyrocat is a very nice developer, but you can get pretty much the same result with most developers. Stick with what you have for now. I prefer to use a staining developer because it allows me to print the same negative on silver gel or alt process such as carbon transfer.
Hopefully, in the next few months i could find someone to ship me a pyro developer here. It's much cheaper in the long run plus i really like to print my negatives to silver gelatin and alt printing (cyano or gum).
Can you give me some pointers on how to print Xray film properly on silver gelatine? Would it be that hard to tame the contrast too?
Thanks!
tenderobject, it's easier to round up the chemicals yourself and mix from scratch. The easiest staining developer to mix up is, in my opinion, is Obsidian Aqua, formulated by a LFPF member. Search it here. Lots of good info.
Randy, I experiment a lot too. That's the what makes this photography thing so much fun :)
Could be tricky... good luck!
Made yesterday - my Son's best friend Eric. KMV, 360mm Graphic Kowa, Agfa green at 400, HC110 dil b, nitrogen burst on hangers. Copy-stand shot with Nikon D2x and 35mm lens. PS3 burning and dodging.
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/...ps72b090ea.jpg
Hi there, with the 360 mounted and my subject at about 8 to 10 feet away the bellows weren't completely stretched out. I did shoot a few images closer and still gad enough bellows. I was able to get to within 5 to 6 feet.
Hope this helps your decision. I think you and I got out KMV's around the same time. Take care, Jeromie
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Scan of Contact print
Kodak 2D 270 mm GClaron Yellow Filter used
Foma Varient Paper used
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View of Lyndock Hill Restaurant Barossa Valley Sth. Australia
Kodak 2D 8x10
Fuji HRT Green
Lens 270 G-Claron f11 exposure 8 min 14 sec
Scan of Contact print
Auto levels PS
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First portrait shots on the 2D
used a yellow filter all gd2 prints
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same details as last post:)
Bazz, what causes the center burning effect?
Agh. this has been a pain and I finally pinned down the cause,I am using a Durst D659 as a light source for the contact printing frame,
I found the centre of the lit area recieves .1or 2 EV more light than the outside perimater.:(
So I changed carriers to the 6x9 size and kept useing the 35mm side of the enlarger the difference now is minute from centre to edge.
I was seeing the bush behind the sitters and felt that it was more pronounced a exposure than what it is, so my poor positioning of the
subjects is a factor as well, i have 3 more to do tomorrow and I will assess them to see If i have it licked:)
I've seen contrast filters do the same effect when not positioned properly under the enlarger...are you using any contrast filters with the images above Bazz8?
Nice images, Bazz. Out of interest, where do you get xray film in Oz? I've previously tried and found that Oz suppliers will only sell to 'trade', and internet sources will not ship to Aust. for some reason. Very frustrating sourcing stuff for photography in this country. Thanks,
Barry
I have not used any filtration Eric the most frustrating thing to me was the light variation of this enlarger,
so I used my meter and did a reading with the 35mm carrier and light just over the printing frame and the difference was astounding,
almost 1 EV between centre to the edge: the readings below were after a hour or so of repositioning the globe to get the most even light I could!
readings for the light sensitivity:
the light readings are over the area of a A4 size, with a 35 neg carrier the above readings were different by up to 1.5 ev so now having .2 or .3 I can manage that ( I hope)
I did a table of the readings but the upload scrambles them so I have included a I-Phone shot of the readings.apoligies for the dullness of the shot but you will get the idea.
Attachment 114347
Barry Kirsten
Nice images, Bazz. Out of interest, where do you get xray film in Oz? I've previously tried and found that Oz suppliers will only sell to 'trade', and internet sources will not ship to Aust. for some reason. Very frustrating sourcing stuff for photography in this country. Thanks,
This is a pet peeve of mine so perhaps some of our fellow members could purchase 100 sheets and post the box to us, although some of the BS attitudes to postage
from our allies is a little hard to understand, I would be more than happy to send over the funds for another box of the fuji HRT 8x10 + postage cost etc,
I believe that Fuji Australia have the market sown up and do not allow external imports to Australia Barry, the box I got was through my Chiropractor and price was very reasonable $50 AU or so,
he gave the task to a secretary and they then asked her ,she had no clue!what they were going to do with it and all heck blew in, finally after 2-3 phone calls a dealer was introduced and the price went to $110AU.
And that was for 180mmx240mm since as we are metric size users, so my above solution may be the answer for us but I have hit the same barriers that you have.
I got 2 boxes last Xmas from a US salvage store and the price was quite reasonable $38 US each so I sent a message to esquire the combining of postage and buying 2 boxes they had shipping at $58 per box
so I got $10Us of the postage,so back to $170 US: all arrived withing 2-3 weeks total postage cost $38 dollars for both boxes!!!!!!!!! so 38+38+38=$114US more BS 55 handling I presume:mad:. I emailed them but not even a responce.
So xray could be so much cheaper but .....................................................................................................any one who could assist please PM Barry and Barry:).
The dark blur behind their heads is a bush and a little bit of shade as well Stone
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diy 18x24cm camera with diy film holder
Zeiss Tessar 210
Attachment 116357
Seneca/National 8x10, Fujinon 240mm, f9 lens, F45/6 sec, Fuji HRT Blue X-ray @ 100, D76 1:1, Ilford Multigrade IV RC Glossy, Dektol 1:2
Great photo. I bet that shadow detail is even better on a wet print.
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Fuji HR-S 8x10 film
exposed at ISO 80, using studio strobes
Xtol 1:1
6 minutes @ 68 degrees
Finally got to meet my granddaughter Charlotte, almost 1 1/2 years old - first of many to be taken with 8X10.
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CSX Green in HC-110 "H" / Caltar S II 300mm