Jim,
You could sub-divide and recover your cost.
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Jim,
You could sub-divide and recover your cost.
Dear wclavey,
With regard to your posted graph of sensitivity versus wavelength....if the user who suggested this film is panchromatic by developing by inspection under safelight were to put a UV filter in front of the that safelight might we not be able to develop under safelight conditions. We use ortho film developed in D19 under safelight. I'm guessing the UV filter would 'take the wind' out of any light that is causing his foggin.
This is a good idea and one I may consider.Quote:
Originally Posted by venchka
Jim
Okay, I just completed a simple test in my studio....er apartment. I loaded one holder with the 11x14 green sensitive medium speed X-ray film and set up a still life. Some plants in the courtyard gladly volunteered to help, well no one was looking when I did a little landscape work. Anyhow I used my big Darlot and I shot it at about F-5.6 (it opens to F-4) and I did two exposures. I metered at 100 and I took one at 2 seconds and one at 4 seconds. My lighting was daylight and a daylight balanced fluorescent bulb. Very simple set up and I did not realize that my backdrop fell down but what the heck this is a test.
I developed the negatives in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:200 @ 72 degrees in a tray for 10 minutes. I pre-soaked the film for 5 minutes and then did normal agitation for the ten minutes. 30 seconds agitation at the beginning and 5 seconds every minute. The negatives came out great and are drying. You do have to use trays that do not have raised ridges as Gene said and I did one in a tray to see what it looks like. The second negative I did I used the right tray and it came out great. No scratches at all I think in part to the hardening of the pyro.
Now, I need to get the hangers done because this stuff looks great. This will allow me to shoot a lot of 11x14 and 8x10. i have some 8x10 on the way.
I will post an example when I can. The film is still wet and I will only be able to scan a part of the image as my Epson 4870 can't do an 11x14 negative.
Jim
Good idea, I did! Share the wealth!Quote:
Originally Posted by venchka
Jim
I have another question regarding X-ray film? I normally print carbon transfer with single transfer. Normally with regular film the image is reversed. Since X-ray film has emulsion on both sides do I need to be concerned with which side I print? I mean the emulsion is on both sides even though the film has been developed, right? It just seems strange but if this is the case then this is an added bonus.
Jim
Theoretically emulsion side facing the lens would be the sharpest, but in practice it may not matter.
Gene, thanks I'll give it a try when I get a chance to print the negatives.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene McCluney
Just took a density reading and the neg's DR is 1.96. This will work for carbon!
Jim
It matters some. I used some X-ray film and made a carbon print. While it was not nearly as soft as using traditional film printed with the negative reversed, there still was some loss of sharpness using thick, lightly pigmented carbon tissue. I also made a print from the same negative using the thinner, more highly pigmented B&S carbon tissue that was much sharper.Quote:
Theoretically emulsion side facing the lens would be the sharpest, but in practice it may not matter.
The above negative was processed at a hospital, so I don't know exactly what chemicals were used.
I have 300 sheets or so of some Agfa "daylight" X-ray film I keep meaning to experiment more with. It is 14x17...a seems bit of a shame to cut it down to 8x10.
Its effective ASA seems to change greatly depending on the light. In the open shade, it seemed to be between 400 and 800...but quite a bit slower when used in the deep forest. I'd love to have a 7x17 camera to use to play with this film!
Vaughn
Vaughn, this is encouraging news. I did not know that you had experimented with or had some of this film. Is what you have green or blue sensitive? Interesting that the ISO changes so much. Looks like I need to test it in different lighting situations.
Just think if you cut it in two you have 600 sheets of 7x17! What do I need to build a 7x17?
Jim