Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Ah, so I suppose I might just as well contact Agfa? I tried contacting foma but they haven't responded yet. Sounds like there is a plan B!

30 seconds exposure on x-ray film.
Rittreck view with 18x24cm back.
Fujinon W 250 at f32
Scan from negative, finished in PS.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1507/...424772a1_b.jpg

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Originally Posted by stiganas

For anyone interested. Foma have a Mamo single side notched emulsion film.

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I'd be very interested to see your results.
It doesn't say anything about anti-halation on the pdf though (one of the main attractions of the Ektascan BR/A).

Premortho asserted that Ektascan BR/A is the only Ortho film on the market that has an anti halation backing. No idea if this is true, but I've not heard of another.

I have no idea from where I got this antihalation info but it doesn't matter because I have the film in my hands :)

It has antihalation, it is a deep blue dye that come off very easy and the film is safe under a red led. I can't say anything else from the short test I've done except that I didn't like the look of the negative, it reminds me of lithofilm.
Attachment 145760

but this means nothing - it is just one test sheet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stiganas

I have no idea from where I got this antihalation info but it doesn't matter because I have the film in my hands :)

It has antihalation, it is a deep blue dye that come off very easy and the film is safe under a red led. I can't say anything else from the short test I've done except that I didn't like the look of the negative, it reminds me of lithofilm.
Attachment 145760

but this means nothing - it is just one test sheet.

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It seems to be a little under exposed and a lot over developed (at least for what I'm shooting for, for silver printing and scanning.)
I would suggest to dilute your developer quite a bit, to get some control over the density of the highlights.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thodoris Tzalavras

It seems to be a little under exposed and a lot over developed (at least for what I'm shooting for, for silver printing and scanning.)
I would suggest to dilute your developer quite a bit, to get some control over the density of the highlights.

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True at both counts - I just want to show the notches on the film. It goes perfect in the 18x24 holder (same size as the normal 8x10 holder just the internal mask smaller)

If I didn't say that Ektascan BR/A is the only Orthchromatic film on the market with an anti-halation backing that I know of - - I should have.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stiganas

I have no idea from where I got this antihalation info but it doesn't matter because I have the film in my hands :)

It has antihalation, it is a deep blue dye that come off very easy and the film is safe under a red led. I can't say anything else from the short test I've done except that I didn't like the look of the negative, it reminds me of lithofilm.
Attachment 145760

but this means nothing - it is just one test sheet.

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Yes, that does look like lith film. My xray negs (Fuji double sided) don't look anything like that. A bit high contrast sometimes, but not like that. The developer I use was suggested in one of the first posts here, and that's D23, 1:6 or 1:7 or something. It's very gentle, and if I do it right I can get negs that are really beautiful. I've been saving it and reusing it, but have noticed that it works even better as it gets old and weak, so I'm thinking of doubling the dilution and using it as a one shot, since the cost is really negligible. Developing by inspection means I don't have to let it go past when the development is good, which your neg certainly has, so I certainly recommend you get yourself one of those red LED bulbs people are using so successfully, if you don't already have one:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../attributes/13

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mdarnton

Yes, that does look like lith film. My xray negs (Fuji double sided) don't look anything like that. A bit high contrast sometimes, but not like that. The developer I use was suggested in one of the first posts here, and that's D23, 1:6 or 1:7 or something. It's very gentle, and if I do it right I can get negs that are really beautiful. I've been saving it and reusing it, but have noticed that it works even better as it gets old and weak, so I'm thinking of doubling the dilution and using it as a one shot, since the cost is really negligible. Developing by inspection means I don't have to let it go past when the development is good, which your neg certainly has, so I certainly recommend you get yourself one of those red LED bulbs people are using so successfully, if you don't already have one:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../attributes/13

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I was just looking at Ansel's The Negative today, at his discussion of D23, and I'm wondering if the reason your D23 gets better and better is because it's picked up some bromide from interacting with the film.

I was also looking at your examples of green x-ray in D23. Very nice. I really liked the violin portrait. Do you still rate it at 80, and run it at 1:6 for 8 minutes? How much agitation do you use? Can you tell me what kind of max density you get with your usual dev time?