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Well, I am getting the feeling that the quality control in manufacturing of Fuji Xray film is lacking. Over the past 4-5 years I have purchased five 100 sheet boxes. All have been 8X10 but my most recent is 7X17. I got a very similar defect in one of the 8X10 boxes as I am now getting in my 7X17 box.
Shot and processed this morning trying out my home-made back that I mount on my 8X10 camera:
https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.co...5_1a.jpg?raw=1
The negative is covered with little dots of minus density. I purchased this box new back in December and recently opened it. It has been stored at room temp.
https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.co..._1a2.jpg?raw=1
Both bad boxes are Fuji Super - one is HR-T and one HR-U, purchased several years apart. Both are the Green sensitive.
So, my experience with Fuji Xray film is not very good.
That's interesting. I've shot a lot of the Fuji and never seen that. Out of curiosity, what developer?
Are you sure it's not caused by you? I ask because I had similar flaws with Ektascan. I was using Obisidian Aqua and semi-stand at the time, citric acid stop, and Ilford Rapid fix. I switched to D-23, and reduced fix time to one minute. Problem solved. It could have been caused by the OA, and semi-stand, I don't know...
Hi,
Does anyone know if they made film development hangers for full plate (6 1/2 x 8 1/2) film?
My usual development for X-ray (4x5, 5x7 and 8x10) is on hangers in tanks. Its the only way I avoid scratching the film.
Thanks, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
I am sure it could be something that I am doing. I will just have to experiment...I guess. Could be fixing to long - like 4 minutes...? Just a water stop-bath.
Got it from ZZ.
Adox Rodinal 1:100, 75° for 4.5 minutes.
Smooth, flat-bottomed trays are perfectly safe with double-sided films. I got rid of my hangers (for 8x10), as way too much solutions were required to process. Gentle agitation is key. Since switching to flat-bottomed trays, I've never had any scratching. I process 8x10 and 14x17.
What is the source of the whole plate film? Cut down from larger or purpose bought that size? I've been figuring that since I don't have holders or a camera for that size (yet) I might just shoot 8x10 and mask to come up with whole plate if I wanted to experiment more with the format. Alternatively, I might cut something down to that film size and magnetically or gaffer's tape it into an 8x10 holder. There's something about that shape that I really like.
Whole plate film is offered on the Ilford Ultra Large Format (ULF) Campaign. All the info is here including the a list of participating dealers. https://www.ilfordphoto.com/annual-u...ndow-for-2022/
Roger
Thanks for the responses guys...
I had thought to cut down existing hangers but had hoped someone had an easier / simpler solution...:( I'll keep looking, perhaps on auction sites overseas.
So glad smooth trays are working well for you, that's awesome!! :D
I've been processing X-ray film since the 1980's. Professionally for decades and then for fun over the last 15 years. Unfortunately Ive never found any other method beside tanks and hangers that gave me the results I'm looking for.
Your X-Ray experience is very welcome here
We have been flying blind for years
Please tell us how it WAS done and how it is now
I use Arkay tanks and hangers with gas burst
One shot Rodinol, water stop and TF5 fix seems to last forever, I change it out by surface area
Please
Sounds like you have it under control :)
My experience started with hangers in a large darkroom tank (medical) that housed Dev/stop/fix and would easily fit 14x17 chest films. It looked like a deep stainless garage sink, 20in wide by 20 inches deep by 20+ inches tall on a stand that bought it up to approx 32 inches from the ground. Then years later in a hospital environment we had a automated system. Our tech managed that so Im not really sure of the inner workings / details. When I started doing this at home for fun I went back to tanks as I didn't shoot enough film to justify a processor. Not to mention my wife would probably have drawn the line at that one :) I did try trays and bags and ended up with more scratches and artifacts than I wanted to deal with.
For developer I use Dektol, diluted 1:12, development times from 75-90 seconds. Agitation and temp have been the keys for me, and it varies with film type. Also cooling the developer down to 58-60 degrees helps with contrast.
Initally I tried the blue sensitive film for pictorial use, but didn't like it and have used the green sensitive emulsion ever since. I only shoot this stuff on cloudy days when cast shadows are at a minimum. Recently I did try some R09 one shot developer and got favorable results. But I'm not really that keen on the 30 minute development time. Dektol has spoiled me over the years, and the older I get... the less patience I seem to have. :)
Here's a couple of examples from my flickr page, Redwood trees are with Dektol and the gas mask was with RO9.
Just so you know I'm not a poser ;):D
Cheers,
Jonathan.Attachment 228995Attachment 228996
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7c55c011_b.jpg18x24 Mammo Shortie Sawed Off Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
This is a test shot (my Shorty Norma) French Kodak 18x24cm Mammo Film, processed in D23 1:1. Taking camera is my new Annie/Avedon inspired 8x10 Norma. I applied 30 degrees of front and rear swing, the Norma original recessed lensboard is sharp all the way across the field. I like how the DOF drops off with the 360mm f5.6 Norma Symmar. There appears to be highlight blooming, which I find kind of attractive. Best thing about this film was that it was not at all expensive. And I have a lot of it
My "Shorty Sawed-Off Norma" has a basic rail cut down, to just accomodate a 120mm lens. Here it is shown with the 47mm f8 Super Angulon, which I am looking forward to using a lot with 2x3 and 6x9. This is not a telephoto camera, but I can easily lift and carry it with one hand without strain. The lowly Star-D tripod is sturdy enough with this setup, given proper time to settle down. I cut both ends off a basic Norma rail with my Lil Machine Shop Bandsaw. So it is now simply a hollow tube perfect length for Field and Architecture.
Cesco Tray developed under deep deep red safelight. 6.5 minutes at 20C
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bb3e5fe0_b.jpgWild Apple Tree Maki II HRU Handheld 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Handheld HRU 6.5cmx9cm XRay photography. Plaubel Makina II with Plaubel Makina Yellow Filter 1/50 at F6.0 Exposure determined by guess and experience so far. Replenished Legacy Mic-X 12 minutes at ambient. Neg is overexposed which is not right but very promising as I will decrease exposure by one and two stops next time. Also will reduce developing time to eight minutes which is more like it but this is working OK so far. Arista #2 8x10 Print Omega Dii Diffusion head laser aligned. Multigrade dev
I just mixed up a gallon of straight Dektol so I'm trying HRU in it 1:12 next for ninety seconds. Should be interesting
Hi,
One thing I forgot to mention with the Dektol as developer. I shoot most all of my x-ray film at anywhere from ASA-25 to ASA-6. Old Kodak X-OMAT for instance I shoot at ASA-6 and T-mat L/RA at ASA-16 indoors and ASA-25 outside.
Ive used HRU before but its been quite a while, I seem to remember the Fuji X-ray films being more contrasty....your mileage may vary :-)
Also with Dektol, the development is so fast that its critical to go from Developer to what ever your using for a stop bath, QUICKLY. :-) Don't wait for the developer to drain off a corner if your using film hangers as you will get uneven development along the edges. I use plain water for a stop bath...
Hope this helps!!
Cheers
Hello again, everybody.
I did not quite like the results i got with the Agfa UV-G x-ray film, so i sliced down 2 more 14x17 sheets into 12 5x7.
In some of them, i did 2 or 3 exposures on the same photo by moving the dark slide a bit more each time.
I will write down how much time i did on each exposure, for example 2+2+4 seconds , meaning that the last exposure got all 8 seconds.
Something happened during development with 3 and 4. I cutted them a tiny bit too long and they bended in the hangers.
IMPORTANT CHANGE: i did the development with Rodinal 1+100, this time at 35 celcius ( 95 Fahrenheit) as recommended in the Agfa page.
Here are the results:
1- 1+1+2 seconds. measured at iso 25-Lens RF-240 f/5.6
Attachment 229287
2- 2+2+4 seconds - Lens RF-240 f/5.6
Attachment 229288
3- 1+5 seconds -Lens RF-240 f/11
Attachment 229289
4- 3+7 seconds - Lens RF-240 f/11
Attachment 229290
5- 4 seconds measured at iso 12 - Lens RF-240 f/5.6
Attachment 229291
6- 1/2 seconds - iso 6 - Lens RF-240 f/8
Attachment 229292
7- 15 seconds - E. Francais f/10 iso 6
Attachment 229293
8- 4 seconds- E. Francais f/10 iso 25
Attachment 229294
9- 2+2 seconds - Euryscope f/6 - iso 25
Attachment 229295
10- 3+5 seconds- Euryscope f/6 - iso 25
Attachment 229296
and last 2 following the previous post.
11- 3 seconds - Euryscope f/6 - iso 12
Attachment 229297
12- 4 + 10 seconds - Euryscope f/6 - iso 6-
Attachment 229298
I hope this helps. As always, comments, opinions and recommendations are very welcome.
Thanks, and a great day for everybody!
Hello to all,
I'm starting shooting on Agfa CP-GU. I need an advice on a starting developing combo. I shoot few sheets at iso 25.
My idea is to use HC110 in 1+63. Temperature will be around 25°C (hot summer, no way to lower the water temperature).
What could it be a good time? 6 minutes?
Thank you
Yes, try 6 minutes
Some have tried to to find the least amount of one shot Rodinol, I use 10ml per 80 sq inches at 1/100 7 minutes 68F
Too short a time will yield this
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e3e6657e_c.jpg3 810 2-1 Macro by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
I have said this before, all Medical X-Ray is more similar that not
It has to be, or Medical users would go nuts
Industrial X-Ray is way more expensive and SPECIAL
Ektascan br/a single sided, dev. in D23 1:3 for 12 mins. Gentle agitation for the first 30 sec then 10 sec. every min. I use the SP-8X10 tray with the hold down tabs removed. Attachment 229513
It tried developing 11x14 double sided Fuji HR-U green in my Jobo print drum today and was pleasantly surprised that I didn't get marks or scratches from the ribs on the interior of the drum. This was great because I don't have room for three trays and was doing single tray processing with less than adequate results. I'm so grateful the freshly manufactured film (my latest box purchased last week has a 12/2024 expiry date) is still available. I bought it from ZZ Medical.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...76760f1c_b.jpgMakiflex Auto 270 Tele Arton Mammo 9x12cm MicX by Nokton48, on Flickr
18x24 Kodak Mammography MINR film cut down to four 9x12cm's. Sinar Norma film holders, Plaubel Makiflex with 4x5 Adapter Back. 270 Auto Tele-Arton Yellow filter. Broncolor Portrait lighting. Microdol-X Legacy developer 12 mins 73F. 8x10 RC #2 Arista Dektol 1:2 dev. Handheld camera
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4f75ece0_b.jpgMakiflex 150 F2.8 Auto Xenotar MINR Mammo by Nokton48, on Flickr
Foxglove on the back deck. Plaubel Makiflex with 150mm F2.8 Schneider Auto iris Xenotar lens wide open. 4X Neutral density filter added. Kodak MINR Mammography Film 18x24cm, cut down into four 9x12cm's. Microdol-X Legacy Developer 12 minutes at 74F. Aristo #2 RC 8x10 print, Omega DII laser aligned 180mm black Rodagon, Dektol dev 1:2. Handheld which I have been doing with Makiflexes a bit.
This thread is the longest thread in internet history and I am lost for time to glean it for a few answers. I have a 7 or 8 year old box of Fuji HRT Green sensitive X ray fim and want to get busy on some basic experimentation. I know the perils of old flim, but for the moment I will put that aside. I will soon buy a fresh box if need be. I've affixed a Hoya K2 yellow filter to my lens. I need an ballpark ASA rating to start with filter factor already figured in, as the filter will remain there permanently, and a basic starting development time, temperature, and dilution with Adox Rodinal. Tray development. This is 8x10 format. Thank you.
EI 50 6 minutes at 68F 1:100 Rodinal
Thank you. I will start with that. I assume the EI 50 already takes into account the filter factor. I appreciate it.
Here is what I use:
D23 1+2 (Mixed from powder stock chems) 68 deg F
7 min 30 sec normal, for N+1 underexpose 1 stop, develop for 8 minutes
Open tray with plexiglass with smoothed edges in tray bottom, continuous but gentle tray agitation first 1 min 30sec. Thereafter: rock tray slightly 3 times once per minute
Be very wary of safelights, I have one specifically made for X ray film and still have to keep it over 4 feet away and pointed away from the area. I cover the tray whenever possible, and even have to be aware of illumination for the sides
Limited experience with yellow filter, not found a need to change exposure
Forgot to mention, I have had good results from Rodinal as well, I just don't have any and use D23 chem for other things anyway so have it on hand
X-Ray people please see TIN Type Zebras above as he has posted charts like of olde
Here
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...Zebra-Tin-Type
I thought I'd report back with preliminary results from today, based on just 2 sheets of film. This is not conclusive, obviously. I was an on-and-off stormy day. Nice puffy clouds and blue sky alternating to storm overcast and rain, back and forth all day. I wanted some blue sky and puffy summer clouds, so I had to jump in from minute to minute. This is Fuji HRT, 8 years old, with a Hoya K2 yellow filter permanently fastened to the rear element of my Bausch and Lomb 12 inch lens in a Betax #4 shutter. First sheet exposed at ASA 25 and developed 5 minutes, 75 degrees in Rodinal 3ml to 10 ounce water. Results: printable, but not perfect. The second ASA 12 same developer and dilution 4 minutes, 75F. On the second, the film showed more printable sky, but a bit lacking in the shadows. More tests are needed. At this time, I believe ASA 12 and 4 1/2 minutes 75F looks like a good place. I was particularly pleased overall. I don't feel so constrained by the constant fight to win over the well-known high contrast battle in using X ray film.
The x-ray films are orthochromatic, some say just close to that. In other words reds do not record, and it is most sensitive to blue. In early morning, near sunset, or on cloudy days additional exposure is required for good negatives. Although some claim to have them, there are NO charts which can be depended upon for accuracy in these conditions. Experience with particular film, developer and methods is required.
Until you are more familiar with the film you need to photograph with it between 2 hours after sunrise until 2 hours prior to sunset. These times are approximate only. After some experience during the middle of the day and with your developer and particular method of development you will be able to nail down this part of the process. Then you can begin to experiment with increased exposure during low light parts pf the day.
Only you can determine this for you. What I do and what others do may be a guide, but that's all, Experimentation is the answer.
If you want more separation between blue sky and clouds on green sensitive xray like HRT (new stuff is HRU), use a stronger yellow filter. I've used a Wratten #12 (minus blue), a #15, and a green #58. You'll never get the separation like you can get with pan films, but looks pretty good. The green latitude xray films are indeed orthochromatic.
It's been a few years since I was last pursuing this interest. Are you telling me that Fuji HRT is discontinued and replaced by HRU? What is the difference? I can go on the Fuji site and see both. I notice they specifically describe HRT as "high contrast", while no such verbage is used on HRU. Is there a difference in film speed, contrast, or anything else I should know? Thank you.
An interesting document: https://www.slideshare.net/PARTHPMT/...y-film-screens
Especially pages 24-26, where it explains the difference between T-Mat and Ektavision radiographic films. The first one lets light trough to hit the backside emulsion, where the second one has a separator built in, so that the two emulsions get light only from their side.
This should mean that in a camera the back emulsion of Ektavision would not be exposed (at least in theory, I guess some light will still hit).
The rest of the document is also interesting as it explains the different speeds of radiographic film.
Well it's been 9 days since I put in my surveyor's tripod with Engineer Supply, apparently of Virginia, and haven't seen or heard hide nor hair of it. I think they threw me on some kind of back order list and didn't tell me they were going to do that. All they said on their site was that orders generally take 3 or 4 days processing time before they ship. It's been 9, and nothing. Good thing I paid Paypal, because they're going to remember this transaction. I'll raise h-e-double toothpicks and put a prop under it.
One of the reasons I use eBay and Amazon so much
They both want fast delivery and often tell me exactly how long
With the help of my Ender 3 and a Tombstone pizza box, my Premier 13" paper cutter, plus a little ingenuity, I just loaded 3 4x5 film holders with cut-down 8x10 Fuji HRT so I can get out there tomorrow and start taking some test shots on my Horseman 8x10 with 4x5 back. The previously mentioned items were used to make 2 jigs. One for the 5x8 cut, and another jig for the 4x5 cut. The film fit the film holders perfectly after cutting. You know what would be nice to have now? A basic exposure chart for HRT. I realize the accuracy would be less than perfect, but it would probably be handy for some ballpark exposure settings. I'm using Rodinal 1:100. So far, 5 minutes at 72 degrees is looking pretty good. I know there's guys and YL's out there that have put together a little chart. Sure would like to see one. Regards. KN4SMF
Here a still life scene I shot on Kodak Min-R a few day ago.
IE 50 Dev in HC-110 1+63 for 5:50 min 20 degrees C.
Scanned by hand with RICOH GR III; slight adjustment in PP.
Attachment 230447