Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

The x-ray films are orthochromatic, some say just close to that. In other words reds do not record, and it is most sensitive to blue. In early morning, near sunset, or on cloudy days additional exposure is required for good negatives. Although some claim to have them, there are NO charts which can be depended upon for accuracy in these conditions. Experience with particular film, developer and methods is required.
Until you are more familiar with the film you need to photograph with it between 2 hours after sunrise until 2 hours prior to sunset. These times are approximate only. After some experience during the middle of the day and with your developer and particular method of development you will be able to nail down this part of the process. Then you can begin to experiment with increased exposure during low light parts pf the day.
Only you can determine this for you. What I do and what others do may be a guide, but that's all, Experimentation is the answer.

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Originally Posted by HT Finley

I thought I'd report back with preliminary results from today, based on just 2 sheets of film. This is not conclusive, obviously. I was an on-and-off stormy day. Nice puffy clouds and blue sky alternating to storm overcast and rain, back and forth all day. I wanted some blue sky and puffy summer clouds, so I had to jump in from minute to minute. This is Fuji HRT, 8 years old, with a Hoya K2 yellow filter permanently fastened to the rear element of my Bausch and Lomb 12 inch lens in a Betax #4 shutter. First sheet exposed at ASA 25 and developed 5 minutes, 75 degrees in Rodinal 3ml to 10 ounce water. Results: printable, but not perfect. The second ASA 12 same developer and dilution 4 minutes, 75F. On the second, the film showed more printable sky, but a bit lacking in the shadows. More tests are needed. At this time, I believe ASA 12 and 4 1/2 minutes 75F looks like a good place. I was particularly pleased overall. I don't feel so constrained by the constant fight to win over the well-known high contrast battle in using X ray film.

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If you want more separation between blue sky and clouds on green sensitive xray like HRT (new stuff is HRU), use a stronger yellow filter. I've used a Wratten #12 (minus blue), a #15, and a green #58. You'll never get the separation like you can get with pan films, but looks pretty good. The green latitude xray films are indeed orthochromatic.

It's been a few years since I was last pursuing this interest. Are you telling me that Fuji HRT is discontinued and replaced by HRU? What is the difference? I can go on the Fuji site and see both. I notice they specifically describe HRT as "high contrast", while no such verbage is used on HRU. Is there a difference in film speed, contrast, or anything else I should know? Thank you.

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Originally Posted by HT Finley

It's been a few years since I was last pursuing this interest. Are you telling me that Fuji HRT is discontinued and replaced by HRU? What is the difference? I can go on the Fuji site and see both. I notice they specifically describe HRT as "high contrast", while no such verbage is used on HRU. Is there a difference in film speed, contrast, or anything else I should know? Thank you.

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HRU is the newer version of HRT. No clue if HRT has been discontinued, but why would Fujifilm make both, unless there is something very different between them, and I cannot see any? I buy my xray film from cxsonline. They only list HRU.

An interesting document: https://www.slideshare.net/PARTHPMT/...y-film-screens
Especially pages 24-26, where it explains the difference between T-Mat and Ektavision radiographic films. The first one lets light trough to hit the backside emulsion, where the second one has a separator built in, so that the two emulsions get light only from their side.
This should mean that in a camera the back emulsion of Ektavision would not be exposed (at least in theory, I guess some light will still hit).

The rest of the document is also interesting as it explains the different speeds of radiographic film.

Well it's been 9 days since I put in my surveyor's tripod with Engineer Supply, apparently of Virginia, and haven't seen or heard hide nor hair of it. I think they threw me on some kind of back order list and didn't tell me they were going to do that. All they said on their site was that orders generally take 3 or 4 days processing time before they ship. It's been 9, and nothing. Good thing I paid Paypal, because they're going to remember this transaction. I'll raise h-e-double toothpicks and put a prop under it.

One of the reasons I use eBay and Amazon so much

They both want fast delivery and often tell me exactly how long

With the help of my Ender 3 and a Tombstone pizza box, my Premier 13" paper cutter, plus a little ingenuity, I just loaded 3 4x5 film holders with cut-down 8x10 Fuji HRT so I can get out there tomorrow and start taking some test shots on my Horseman 8x10 with 4x5 back. The previously mentioned items were used to make 2 jigs. One for the 5x8 cut, and another jig for the 4x5 cut. The film fit the film holders perfectly after cutting. You know what would be nice to have now? A basic exposure chart for HRT. I realize the accuracy would be less than perfect, but it would probably be handy for some ballpark exposure settings. I'm using Rodinal 1:100. So far, 5 minutes at 72 degrees is looking pretty good. I know there's guys and YL's out there that have put together a little chart. Sure would like to see one. Regards. KN4SMF

Here a still life scene I shot on Kodak Min-R a few day ago.
IE 50 Dev in HC-110 1+63 for 5:50 min 20 degrees C.
Scanned by hand with RICOH GR III; slight adjustment in PP.

Attachment 230447

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Originally Posted by the4x5project

here a still life scene i shot on kodak min-r a few day ago.
Ie 50 dev in hc-110 1+63 for 5:50 min 20 degrees c.
Scanned by hand with ricoh gr iii; slight adjustment in pp.

life as we know it

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