Sergi's work is ALWAYS inspiring! His stuff is what flipped me on to trying x-ray film. You can only see so much like that before you have to try it yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by stradibarrius
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Sergi's work is ALWAYS inspiring! His stuff is what flipped me on to trying x-ray film. You can only see so much like that before you have to try it yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by stradibarrius
Thanks guys, but i believe that most of credit is due to people who started all the experiments , although no longer posting here much - Jim is one of them to certainly be named ;)
Sergei and everyone who is posting, thanks. The wealth of knowledge in this thread is amazing. One of the reasons I started it. I'll get back to posting soon. I've been busy building my camera and recently got back from a trip to the Redwoods shooting all four of my cameras. A lot of film to develop and since I never post scans it will take me time to get carbon prints done and posted..... only not in this thread as I shot the other kind of film on this trip.
I will get back to working on my carbon transfer portraits using x-ray film very soon and in the meantime keep the great images coming and please give us your details as I love to learn as well. The work has been stunning and can't wait to see more. Thanks.
A couple I shot today using the Rittreck View w/ 8x10 back, 355 RD Artar, green xray film
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/...6f5bcc08_z.jpgfalls by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/...b0645e5c_z.jpgJulia by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
Awesome Images both of them!
Thanks Jim!!
These shots are beautifl but "Julia" is the best! is this green or blue?
thank you stradibarrius, I say its green because that is what I ordered but what I ordered was Fuji HR U but what I got was Fuji HR T, not sure what the difference is, Jim probably knows. I exposed it at 100, developed in ilfosol 3
My victim from the other day came by yesterday and said he'd like to use one of the others from the take for PR, one that
wasn't so morose, so I shopped it up appropriately for publication use. The reason for the visit was gluing up a seam on his
viola, thus the clamps. I wasn't planning that he'd actually want to use it. :-)
Someone asked about the inevitability of high contrast and low key. This one's processed to look normal. Skin tones will
always be a bit dark relative to pan films because of x-ray film's lack of red sensitivity, which will render anything that's
red, or partially red such as skin, darker than pan film would do it.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/...72fb90a6_b.jpg
Roger Chase 2--PR version by michael.darnton, on Flickr
Thanks...it seems most people are using green???
I am shooting 4x5 and would have to cut 8x10 into 4- 4x5 sheets. Is Xray film easily scratched?
It's easy to scratch the emulsion when it's wet, just as with regular film. I haven't had any scratches from my paper cutter, though.
You should probably take this type of question over to the x-ray technical thread.....keep this one for photos, as per it's title.
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...and-comparison
What would be the average speed for Green and Blue film? Using Rodinal developer, what consentration and developer Temperature would be suggested for a starting point? Shorty from the West Cost
The thread that will answer all of your technical x-ray film questions!Quote:
Originally Posted by rdelung
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...and-comparison
Attachment 124951Thanks to the terrific reference material from the pro's on this site I have managed to produce some half decent pics methinks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Please feel free to critique, its all valuable info to me. These were taken on a Deardorff 11x14 studio with an old dallmeyer at f4.6 and a Derogy wide open and an old piece of tin as a shutter.
The blue half speed 11x14 film needed a bit of care getting in and out of the film holder and during developing but should be more robust after a coating of hairspray, apologies but all have been digitized by camera to upload as I don't have a scanner
Attachment 124950
I'm confused about this first color image, would you elaborate please thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
Hand coloring, I think.
I suspect the negative will be more vulnerable with hairspray than without. I have trouble with damage only when the film is wet, and have been able to track every scratch to wet handling, except for the piece I dropped on the floor. Once it's dry, it's as tough as any film. Wet it's like jello on a sheet of glass and just looking at it too hard will scratch it.
Someone (sorry, don't remember exactly who--one of our two or three most ancient members) suggested loading film by opening the slide all the way, positioning the film as far in as possible, then setting one edge under the track, then the other, finally pushing it home only 1/2 inch or so, rather than sliding it in all the way from one end. For large film this works great. 5x7, maybe; 4x5 not at all. But it's great for 8x10, etc.
I was actually thinking that if I use a print drum for developing my double-sided x-ray film next time, what usually happens to me is that I get scratches where the lines are inside the drum, but it occurred to me that maybe I could add a second layer of some kind of non-scratching material behind one side of the film as a barrier against the lines on the drum itself, i'm not sure if this would cause some kind of overall scratching, or if it would actually completely prevent the scratching, but it was a thought and I plan to experiment with it once my 11 x 14 camera is built (by me).Quote:
Originally Posted by mdarnton
Someone (sorry, don't remember exactly who--one of our two or three most ancient members) suggested loading film by opening the slide all the way, positioning the film as far in as possible, then setting one edge under the track, then the other, finally pushing it home only 1/2 inch or so, rather than sliding it in all the way from one end. For large film this works great. 5x7, maybe; 4x5 not at all. But it's great for 8x10, etc.
You can do this I guess but in the red light I've never found it to be a problem loading and unloading film the regular way. That is sliding it in, even with 14x17. One must be careful.
That's a pretty clever idea... definitely wasn't mine. I'm not ancient yet or that clever.
My issues were scratches during agitationQuote:
Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald
Gentle agitation in a flat-bottomed tray when using double-sided. I have just enough developer (pyrocat-hd) to go up to the first joint of my index finger. I don't get scratches or scuff marks. Another method is pulling the film out of the tray, and placing it back in, pushing it to the bottom very gently. Twice per agitation cycle. This works well even with 14x17. Wear gloves. Keeps chems out of your system, and keeps finger nails from scratching the film. Don't forget ziplock bags method, too.
Hi StoneNYC yes, it is hand colouring, a cotton bud and some SHIVA Veronica Cass, unfortunately no longer sold.
I had a few probs getting the double sided film in and out, it would scrape on the wood at the end at the material hinge. I solved this quite easily by sacrificing another negative, I slide the good film over the old negative and it stops the contact with the wood
Woops forgot to add, the same technique with the second negative also works well in developing trays, I use glass plate in the bottom of the developing tray so the film cant scratch against the imperfections in the tray, and have another negative in the other trays. I just turn my developing negative over a few times so that both sides get equal amounts of chemical
Cheers
From the first few post then skipping to the last few post the knowledge of working with the xray film has grown. Based on that if you were going to try xray film for the first time in a 4x5 what film would you try?
Do you mean cutting it down yourself? They don't make 4x5 X-Ray film, there are companies that cut it down for you at a premium of course. But then you're limited in what they cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by stradibarrius
I always say 8x0 Ektascan (carestream) because it's single sided.
With all the recent 4x10 work being posted by Chris Barrett, I caught the 4x10 bug again. I dusted off my 4x10 reducing back, cut down some Xray film and took the Shen Hao out yesterday to my favorite place.
Attachment 125128
Shot on Fuji HRT Green Xray film
Attachment 125129
Shot on Agfa Ortho Green Xray film
Both images were shot at iso 400 with the Fuji 210 mm f5.6 lens at f32 with a No 8 yellow filter.
Developed with Rodinal 1:100 in the Jobo system.
I agree with your thoughts.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Terrific images!Quote:
Originally Posted by ndg
I have been following this thread since its inception, and I am currently using Ektascan but have a need to move to a double sided film and cut it down for larger unusual sizes. Several entries have indicated cutting down film, a task at which I have rarely been successful, but none have described their method.
I need some ideas of methods used by those who are regularly successful with this task.
Do you use a jig?
Is a razor knife superior to a rolling cutter?
What is your method of holding them film steady?
Thanks for you ideas.
Jim
I use a rolling cutter. For most sizes the film holder needs film a little less than 1mm smaller than the nominal size. I'd recommend taking one piece and by trial and error figure out what exact sizes you want to cut, the first time.
I use a lots-of-plastic Fiskars disk cutter that cost me something like $20 at Office Depot. More $$$ now, apparently:
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classi...dp/B000YAJHVE/
Word: I have never trusted the ability of any paper cutter I've used to make a square cut. When it's been important, I have set up a fence of tape at the right distance from the blade, and use that to brace the opposite end from the one I'm cutting, at the correct distance. Most paper cutters are a bit casual about making their side fences 90-degrees to the cutter.
I make a stack of about five pieces of 5" long masking tape, and lay that on the cutter's board as a fence, starting with cutting 8x10 into 5x8. So, first I put the fence at 5" minus about .6mm. I don't like handling the film a lot, so I cut a pile of about 5 sheets, in multiple passes, both holding down the holder on the cutter, and with my hand flat on the stack so it doesn't move. Then I take the pieces I cut off, and trim them from 5"+ to 5"-, again as a stack in multiple passes.
I store it that way, as 5x8. If I need 5x7, I cut to 7"-- using the tape fence-- in a pile as before. If I need 4x5, I cut the stacks of 5x8 as I made the initial cuts--once cut of 4"-, then taking the off cuts and cut the little strip off of them.
It sounds complex, but it really isn't. I make a pile of 5x8 when I feel like it, then cut it down later to what I really need at that moment.
Two things: I've never gotten scratches from cutting and handling. When it's dry, it's just as tough as regular film, so if you don't scratch Tri-X you won't scratch x-ray. Second, I am lucky in that I don't have oily hands, nor do I have acidic skin, so I don't leave any prints on film (that was handy when I was printing in commercial labs! :-) If you have oil or acid, you may have to wear cotton gloves or something.
I use a dedicated Dahle 18E that I use ONLY for cutting film. I gaff tape a production stop to the bed. I make sure everything is dust free and my hands are not oily, I don't use gloves. I keep a paper safe nearby and as I cut I put film in it, until I change to the second cut. I cut down 11x14 CSG and Ektascan. I cut many sizes and have very little scrap.
The Dalhe has a soft rubber gripper to hold your film in place. I don't use the supplied plastic stop.
I plan to buy a second smaller one for the second cut.
See video here.
Jim, i use a Rotatrim. I use it to cut down sheets all the way up to14" x 36". Works rather well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Jim, thanks!
Thanks to all for your replies. You have given me some good directions to try.
Jim
Yes very nice ndg
8x10, Kodak CSG, rotary 6m, Adonal 1:100
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8681/...e1bb2982_o.jpgSFlower study 26 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
A couple of Van Dyke prints from 14x17" Kodak T-Mat xray films developed in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100 for 10 minutes in trays. Both shot with a 450mm extra rapid aplanat.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5612/...0e9a74ac_c.jpgKatori Shinto Ryu sunday training by Filippo Natali, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/...f55c6e69_c.jpgNicola with catch net by Filippo Natali, on Flickr
Thank you all for alle the infos and images posted on this thread, it's very useful and inspiring.
These are truly stunning!Quote:
Originally Posted by UlbabraB
Filippo - very nice prints. Well done!
Thanks!!
Here it comes. Just got an email from ZZ medical announcing the discontinuation of one type of X-Ray film.
Surely more to come. :(
Fuji Film Co. recently announced the end of production for their RXU Half Speed Blue x-ray film. If you are using the RXU x-ray film in a Blue system you can switch to the Carestream CSB.5 without any change in the speed of your system. RXU has the unique capability to work in either Green or Blue systems so Z&Z Medical sold this product as a Half Speed Blue x-ray film and as a High Speed Green x-ray film. If you were using the RXU in a Green system the Carestream CSB.5 will NOT work in your system. Z&Z Medical will not allow the return of opened boxes of x-ray film and will NOT be liable for customers trying the CSB.5 x-ray film in their Green system. Green system alternative films will be Fuji HRT, HRU or Carestream CSG. All of these products will cause your film speed to drop about 33% therefore you will need to increase your MAS 33%. If you are using the RXU film with Green Regular screens you can purchase Green Fast screens and achieve the same film speed.
If you are unsure of the color output of your system you can call Z&Z Medical at 800-410-9575 with the name of your intensifying screens and we will determine the color output for you. You can also perform this simple test: remove the film from your cassette. Place your opened cassettes where the screen can be exposed to radiation from your x-ray equipment and you can see the screen. Set your system for a long exposure time and then turn the light down or off in the x-ray room. Expose the screen and watch for it to glow during exposure. Green systems will put off a green light and Blue systems will put off a blue light. If you have any questions or need help with this transition please feel free to contact us at 800-410-9575.
Thanks for the push, Randy. I kept forgetting to order new box of film and my current ones are about to run out . Not that i shoot Fuji
I saw that and ordered a case of Ektascan.Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
Good thinking. Time to order more 8x10 Ektascan!Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
I think it may ship better in a case, and ground shipping is only $14.
It may be time to order more 14x17!
I fear Ektascan is a tiny market, who exactly takes pictures of oscilloscopes these days? We stopped doing that well over 25 years ago at our lab, and we always used Polaroid, then went to video output onto a Sony printer, that was quicker than Polaroid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by angusparker
Thought the 14x17 Ektascan wasn't available anymore?Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
14x17 was available in the last year and several us bought a 2 cases together in 2 single case buys. I still have 180 sheets to cut to 11x14 and 5x7. I don't shoot 11x14 as fast as I do 8x10 and I hope to use my incoming 500 sheets of 8x10 over a few years.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Then what's a guy to do?
I suggest others here start a buying group, if you want Ektascan.
Regular Kodak CSG which I also use is widely available. And 1/2 the price of Ektascan. Many of the alt printers are very happy using double sided X-Ray, such as CSG.
All depends on what you want.
I have a friend near me here, who thinks X-Ray is garbage and I should only shoot 'real' film. I do shoot 'real' film, but less often.
I really like that I can be free to experiment with X-Ray in all sizes and not worry about costs.
Do you think 8x10 Ektascan is close to being discontinued? What would be the benefit of buying as a group vs individually? Is it cheaper if so by how much?
8x10 is easy to get. 14x17 is tougher.
I have no idea if it will be discontinued soon, but I am sure it will be one day as everybody is going digital. It used for X-Rays not straight photography.
I like it, so I stocked up.
Maybe it will be cheaper soon, nobody knows and if they do they are not talking.
I have written and called X-Ray film sellers they will not tell me anything. I am sure their market has been disappearing very quickly.
Do what YOU think best. Good luck!
So I've been trying to figure out why my developer was getting exhausted too quickly and it hit me that I'm developing both sides of the film! I would think the blank side wouldn't use any developer up. Am I reading this right that the ektascan is single-sided emulsion? I'm using the fuji green at present. Thanks, Will