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Interesting, when you order it, does it still give you the options in the drop down?Quote:
Originally Posted by trundrumbalind
Generally, Green is 400, Blue is 200, half speed is half of whatever type so half blue so 100.
I THOUGHT all ektascan was only 100 so not sure the website is correct ? Hmmmm ok who knows more?
Ektascan is not regular X-Ray film at all. It is designed for CRT video screen capture, it is never used for actual X-Ray like the double sided stuff.
I imagine Ektascan will not be around much longer as imaging CRT's is fast becoming even more obsolete than analog X-Ray.
Other companies do make CRT video capture film, but it is difficult to find any good info on it. Somebody needs to buy samples and test it.
I use Ektascan and am very happy with it.
wow, how did you developed this in a rotary tube? didn't you get scratches and uneven developmpent on the side facing the tube?? Or is there something I'm missing about Kodak G X-Ray?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
First two sheets of Ektascan developed. Both exposed at EI 100, and companion images on FP4+ at same exposure for comparison.
1st sheet in tray with HC110 1+63 for 6 minutes almost constant agitation+ 2 minutes standing in water. Shadows are under-exposed, although FP4 is not. Contrast a little strong even for salt prints.
2nd sheet #12 filter to separate clouds EI 100 plus allowance for filter. in tray with HC110 , 1+100 for 12 minutes, limited agitation (5 seconds each 30 seconds), + 2 minutes standing in water. Contrast better, but of course shadows still under-exposed. sky and clouds look good.
Not unreasonable for 1st tests of this film. I'll get where I want to be soon.
I will probably move to D-23 + water bath, and Pyrocat HD for next tests in my search for the EI /developer combination which best suits my work.
An aside - the FP4+ negatives look very good with a nice long scale.
Some will ask to see images, but I stopped putting images anywhere on the web because of theft and use for profit. That is why I no longer have a web site or blog.
1982 state of the art CRT X-ray recording.
I'm not paying for this article? Will someone?
http://proceedings.spiedigitallibrar...icleid=1232641
and this 4x4"!
http://www.cmxmedicalimaging.com/sam...ved-10-x-10cm/
Depends on the tube, I've used a Cibichrome tube and that worked ok, also you can strip the "back side" and remove the scratches by doing that.Quote:
Originally Posted by trundrumbalind
I been working with X ray in rotary tubes since day i started using Xray about year and half ago. Only two times i had actual issues - one time when i was stupid to develop it in Jobo tank for paper and then back emulsion was not developed. Other time when i was idiotic to drag film out of tube be the edge and scratched other sheet with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by trundrumbalind
if you use film tubes (like unicolor) or other contraptions (like core inserts) you actually got liquid go between sheet and sides. I never strip my film other side , b/c i hate doing it :) It just takes some practice and being careful, and then things working just fine. Sure, you might get scratch here and there on edges, but who cares (few mm out of 8x10 real estate won't hurt you). Its hell of the lot easier to develop for hour in rotary, than doing so next to the tank in dark room, and doing it "by inspection". I don't have dipping tanks though, they might be not bad solution either.
8x10 Kodak, CSG, 12 m rotary in adonal 1:170
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/...461d3e0b_c.jpgScan-140907-0002www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Cool roots!
I've just confirmed the X-Ray is completely orthochromatic! This is exciting to discover, that it's almost fully so, not just a tiny bit... I'm going to try the normal green stuff to see how it reacts to the amber darkroom light.
I just ordered more of the ektascan, and that's when I realized it IS the green I ordered as it's the cheapest, so it's considered 400 yet I've had to shoot it at EI80 to get a good neg... Hmmm.
Stone, my experience with CSR green latitude is that it is only slightly orthochromatic, or better described as a week panchromatic. My first attempt at processing with a red bulb resulted in slight fogging. I had to move my safelight farther away.
With Fuji Green, I tried using first my normal orange/brown (OC?) light and it was total fog. Then I tried a red bulb I'd gotten from a photo supplier as a safelight, and that wasn't much better. Finally I just caved, and bought a real x-ray safelight on Ebay. I haven't tried the LED thing. I intend to try LEDs, and think you should try them first. . .The real safelight is very very dark, so I don't even bother to use it.
It's confirmed when I looked at the dry neg this morning, absolutely no fog from standard amber safelight, so the ektascan can be opened in the darkroom no problem! Awesome now I can cut some 4x5 and actually see what the heck I am doing! So glad to finally have access to a darkroom!Quote:
Originally Posted by mdarnton
I use Kodak T-MAT G/RA Xray film and I load and develop them with a "normal" red bulb safelight at about 1 meter, it's a bit dim but no fog at all.
Red LED is the best, they have a sharp cutoff. On the side of my Ektascan box, it has a safe light symbol and the words 'Kodak LED, GBX-2' now I google that and find.
http://125px.com/docs/unsorted/kodak...Sheet.ashx.pdf
GBX-2 is no longer recommended, Kodak LED is.
Notice the wavelength specs. They are the same as the cheap LED's I have all over my darkroom from.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../attributes/13
That site is the cheapest and that bulb is great. I put them in old Kodak bullet safe lights without a filter, makes them directional, at 48" no fog and I can see everything.
I've tried to point my red LEDs directly at the film at about 5cm for several seconds while developing and nothing happened. No fog at all.
I have noticed no fogging of paper or X-Ray film using these LED bulbs. I keep the darkroom rather bright with one on each station. And since these use only 1.9 watts per bulb, I nearly never turn them off.
Today, while I was on the site, I ordered a big Red LED flood bulb for my shooting area, so I can bounce it off the white ceiling when using a lens without a shutter. Pull the darkslide and pop the strobes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grzybu
Where do you guys buy your safelights? I have an 11 watt red bulb from freestyle but a 1.9 watt safelight bulb sounds better lol
Read post 2042.
Quote:
Originally Posted by axs810
doh!...thank you :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
I have never had issues with cheap 160 LED wee light and twice folded red gel sheet ;) But then i used it like few times for Xray film (use it all the time with collodion and for silver printing though) .. Still like to load film in darkness. Makes it more intimate ;)
My models like a red room...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
8x10 Kodak CSG, 1:200 rodinal, rotary, 12m
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3909/...2df60fe2_c.jpgScan-140914-0004www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
What lens Sergei? Something absurdly wide? I like the feeling of space.
120/8 S-A ;) I got it kinda hacked on small copal shutter in T modeQuote:
Originally Posted by mdarnton
Is anyone enlarging 5x4 xray negatives? If so to what size and how would you describe the results?
I have done portraits on Ektascan in 4X5 and enlarged so far to 11X14 (approx.) with very good results. I developed in D-23 and got smooth tones and good highlight rendition. It seems to be a very fine grain film.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shen45
Bill
See post 1973, a scan of the print.
As far as I understand it, it's actually a "t-grain" emulsion so it should be very fine grained.Quote:
Originally Posted by blueribbontea
Exactly; that and single sided with an anti-halation backing makes it a very nice film. The hard part for me was getting good cuts under the safelight with my paper cutter. Once I get that process finessed I will shoot more 4X5 with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Bill
It's fun to look how x-ray film handles the red color.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5590/...fd5d3c4b_o.jpg
Carbon print from 18x24 cm green sensitive Kodak x-ray film developed with D-23.
Zeiss Tessar 300/4.5
some pics
Attachment 121846
Attachment 121847
Attachment 121848
Attachment 121849
BR/A 8x10" + Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 on Slavich Bromportret developed in Ilford PQ-U 1:9
yup. Colours.
8x10 Kodak CSG, usual rotary, 12m in Adonal 1:200
(green leafs and rose is orange)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/...ee2e38f0_c.jpgScan-140914-0007www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
8x10 Kodak CSG, usual rotary 12m , Adonal 1:200, overcast, 360mm Symmar-S
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/...c943ef48_c.jpgScan-140914-0003www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Hi,
I'm new in here, and new in x-ray, please help me.
I have a box of 8x10 X-ray film, the type is: XOE green sensitive, x-ray RETINA
Can I develope this with rodinal r09? How long?
Can I develope this film in tank?
I usualy use tank for 8x10, but x-ray both side emulsion maybe problem...
Thank You!
kanga
When it comes to x-ray you'll really have to do a lot of your own testing, but 6 minutes is a good starting point, but ANYTHING can be developed with Rodinal...Quote:
Originally Posted by kanga
You can strip one side of the emulsion with bleach if you have scratches.
Good luck with your testing!
Thanks, at the weekend I'll try it.
207 pages on actual information and images in this thread. There is another on in Film discussion. Read it, try it, play with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by kanga
4x5 B&J Orbit monorail, 210mm Hugo Meyer Doppel-Anastigmat, Ektascan B/RA at EI 80, HC-110 1:63 @ 68°F for 5 minutes (rotary).
http://www.kolstad.us/ebay/4x5-Ektas...ling-Paint.jpg
Jonathan
Another beautiful image from the gift that keeps on giving Jonathan. Did you get into reciprocity issues? I'm thinking of trying some of this Ektascan and I'm wondering how to calculate long exposures.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcoldslabs
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks, David. I'm being serious when I say that I feel like sloppily painting a few pieces of plywood and leaving them out in the elements all winter just so I'll have some new photo projects come next summer.
I have not yet tested the Ektascan for reciprocity but that's next on my list. The exposure time for the image above was around a half second (by hand) and there were no issues with the negative. I don't have a densitometer so my "testing" amounts to visual inspection and/or checking the pre-scan histogram. It's pretty easy to tell if I've lost my shadow detail just by looking at the negative on a light box. I'll be sure to report back any reciprocity data I manage to sort out.
Jonathan
Thanks Jonathan,
I should just get some myself and do some testing, since it is so inexpensive per sheet. I will try that.
Dave
Finally getting the hang of this old grunge film. The rounded corners are all bubbly.
http://i.imgur.com/UerZsF0.jpg
Kanga, If your lucky enough to have tanks, use them, it's the safest method to avoid scratches. Sergi is right all the information is in this thread.... good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grzybu
Especially freckles!
Flat-bottomed trays are fine. I've used them for years to develop double-sided xray film. No scratches. I certainly would stay away from trays with raised ridges, though. With film tank holders you can run the risk of surge marks if you're not careful, and a tremendous amount of developer is required... Another alternative, is the ziplock bag method.Quote:
Kanga, If your lucky enough to have tanks, use them, it's the safest method to avoid scratches.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3847/1...9bd189d8_c.jpg
8x10", Fujinon-W 250/6,3 wide open
Kodak BR/A developed in Pyrocat HD 1:1:100
Contact Print on Slavich Bromportret 80, developed in Ilford PQ-U 1:14
Scan of the print on Epson V500
Nice, very nice,
but that subject would would great with a cell phone pic...
nice!
I tried on 8x10" this lens: Fujinon-W 250/6,3 but not really enough...
Are you use a long time those both?
what do you mean @both?Quote:
Originally Posted by kanga
fujinon-w 250/6,3 i have for 1 year and till this august it was my the only lens
8x10 Kodak CDG, Adonal 1:140 , 12m rotary (yes, playing with dillutions again)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/...e3191ed2_c.jpgScan-140923-0003www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
8x10 Kodak CSG , 14" Thomson projection petzval
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3861/...40b678cc_c.jpgFlower study #4 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
8x10 Kodak CSG, 1s exposure, 10m in 1:100 Adonal, rotary
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/...de5d67b5_c.jpgTV dinner by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr