Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Thodoris, thanks - I have processed several dozen 8X10 sheets in trays. Managed to finally have some luck with minimal scratching while processing 4 sheets at a time, but was not satisfied with any scratches, so tried processing in 1 ltr upright tanks - 2 film hangers at a time, but got very uneven development no mater what I did - more rigorous agitation, less rigorous agitation - just could not make it work. Tried one film hanger laying flat in a tray but still got some processing streaks. I tried processing in an 8X10 Colourtronic daylight processing tube that I purchased many, many years ago when I was printing color slides via Cibachrome. The tube is 4 inches inside diameter and has small raised ribs that run the length. The ribs left marks on the X-ray film during processing :(
Anyway, the search continues.

Some of us tried Ziplock bags when somebody else suggested it. It works, one at a time.

Randy if you already have deep tanks and hangers gas burst can be DIY.

I do use stuff made by somebody else.

But I will be trying some other ideas. All you need to try Gas Burst is a Poly tube with tiny holes, attach a timing valve and any adjustable 10+ psi air supply. Maybe a full tire...I use my shop air compressor.

It takes a while to tune it, but once it's set, it runs and runs.

I burst for 1 second 10 PSI every 10 seconds for 10 minutes usually. Water rise should be 1/2 to 1". I go low. You don't need N2 for one shot developer or any fixer.

Thodoris I'm glad you have managed to get the tubes to work, I tried with the old cibachrome tubes but with little success, the film is too flexible to stay in place and I would always find the two negs stuck together. Tray developing of 4x5 would produce mottled skies. I had success with the mod54, but at first had the same problem, the xray film was too flexible and they would flex out of the holders and I would find them stuck to the side of the tube. I drilled holes in the ends and applied a bit of silicone to form a nipple, that way they could not flex out and escape from the mod 54, works a treat now.
As for 8x10 I have not had probs in tray at all, only downside is you can only do one at a time. with tray I just use a circular motion making sure the film hits against each side of the tray for a couple of laps then flip, but still use the same dilute developer of about 1:150

Andrew, are you using flat bottom trays or glass in the bottom? And are you saying you just rock the tray from each side, then flip the film over?

Randy - I tried the Ziploc bag as well - so long ago I can't remember my results. I am guessing I did not like it.

Randy I use the old flat bottom ceramic trays. I rock the film into the end of the tray then the side then the bottom and the other side, circular. Do that a couple of times then flip. You can't really tell which side is which, as one always seems to develop out faster, continual flipping helps discern which side is which.

For the little I have developed 2 sided Xray film so far, I used what I had on hand, big Cesco-Lite flat bottom plastic trays left over from a print shop and Beutler's developer. And then made sure I didn't have fingernails that needed clipping. I rocked and agitated and flipped the film continuously (Fuji green sensitive 8x10). Being deft of hand with reasonable gentleness, scratching problems were quite minimal. Certainly nothing to inspire me to try all kinds of other ideas. The best other idea I know of is paying up for the one-sided stuff, which kind of defeats the whole thrill of "cheap". Cheap film I can shoot away with and not try to be an artiste, which I'm not. If I come up with a good picture once in a while, it wasn't because I was so talented and sure that I could buy the expensive pan stuff.. I can't see why any other smooth flat-bottom tray won't work just as well.

Quite right! I have some old pyrex dishes that work just as well or some stainless steel warming trays from a bain-marie. I'm sure I read somewhere that if you are getting bad development, get some food dye and put a couple of drops in your dish with water and check the dye to see if the water is agitating enough.
Funny, I cant get the same even development with 4x5 in trays.

This scanned negative is a section of an 8x10 taken on a 3d camera, the positive then has the lenticular plastic screen laminated to it. Havent got a laminator and the adhesive film is quite expensive. The camera works fine since packing, the newspaper used to pack is dated 1988.
Attachment 177030

Agfa green 8x10 developed by flat bottomed tray rodinol 1:135-ish

Anyone pick up a cheap x-ray film developing machine to use for in-camera use of x-ray film?

I have try it at work. It make many micro lines and micro scratches. Negative looks fine for science or medicine but not good for photography.. I guess

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Originally Posted by DeKlari

I have try it at work. It make many micro lines and micro scratches. Negative looks fine for science or medicine but not good for photography.. I guess

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Good to know. Thanks!