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I'm also curious if it's double sided film like the box I bought. I've tried the chlorine bleach trick to remove the back side image, but it's a lot of trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
If this is double sided, is this with both images intact? Or do you remove the one not facing the lens?
Hi Micheal,Randy
I process them with normal ridge tray, flip the neg during processing is recommended . Both emulsions are intact.
Have you made any contact prints from them with both emulsions still on?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tri Tran
The chlorine bleach trick works pretty well, frankly, but it is an awful lot of trouble. If both images are in reasonable focus, then it is merely a density building mechanism. But I've only shot 4 sheets of the film so far.
What I found is that in my drums I have to be very careful pulling the film out, since the emulsion facing the outer wall is easy to scratch. Not an issue if you're removing it anyway, but that's more work than developing the film.
Michael, no bleach, no drums. Simplify your life. Tray, D-76, red safe light on and develop for 6 minutes or so till done. Develop by inspection. Simple.
So since development is under a red safe light, then I assume all handling of film can be done in the same conditions?
I cut down the film under a faint red safe light.
I try to keep the red light to a minimum when developing -- film does seem to gain some sensitivity when first in the developer -- I stand so my shadow is over the dev tray for the first half or so of the dev time.
The developer I use is fairly cheap, so I use a good amount in a ribbed tray -- the film never touches the bottom.
Vaughn
There is also available an x-ray safelight filter that fits the Kodak bullet safelights.
juan
I just read this entire thread...and ordered a pack of the blue film in 8x10 :D. Fantastic info here guys...many thanks to everyone who contributed!
At $.25 a sheet if you mess up it doesn't cost you much. I think it is a great way to learn.
where is the best place to get x-ray film?