It's discussed earlier in the thread if you can find it. I believe it involves taping the negative to glass with masking tape, and using household bleach and a brush to remove the second emulsion. I've never tried it myself.
Printable View
It's discussed earlier in the thread if you can find it. I believe it involves taping the negative to glass with masking tape, and using household bleach and a brush to remove the second emulsion. I've never tried it myself.
AAhhh
I didn't realize the bleach step was AFTER development, [ big fat duuuh here].
So the rear/bottom emulsion gets exposed,developed,discarded, and all my scratches go with it? Or do i worry about almost not visible scratches in the gelatine layer- from which silver compounds have been bleached?
regards
Ed
Thanks for the procedure. Seems simple enough that even I could do it! :)
Since this can be worked under safelight, it seems to me that it would be prudent to use a single hole punch or a pair of scissors to notch the film in the "customary" upper right corner when loading the holders. That would make it a lot easier to make certain you're working the proper side when removing the extraneous emulsion.Quote:
Originally Posted by DannL
Or maybe it already is notched if you aren't cutting it down from large sheets.
No notches, or, I don't got to show you no steeenkin notches.
On 8x10 all 4 corners are rounded- hmm If one cuts to 4x5, the round corner serves
Tried the emulsion stripping last night. Worked rather well. Most of my scratches seem to happen while trying to pull the fill out of the holder. Rough fingers, fragile film not always a good mix.
I didn't have any painters tape so I used scotch tape. Wouldn't recommend it. To hard to get off. I used straight bleech in a spray bottle and a sponge brush .Other than that worked like a charm. My negs tend to be a little on the dense side anyway so this just evens it out.
Just got a delivery of film. This using the Kodak stuff -- first time out. VERY happy it's only about .25 a 'plate.'
Gosh, it's BLUE after development (D76) -- kinda like the Aristo.edu 400. Funky stuff.
Confession: The attachment's been photoshop'd to get rid of the shmutz and flare, but this is pretty much what the camera captured.
George
I put this in the alternative section but since it is shot on Green sensitive X-ray film I decided to post it here also. The negative was developed in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:150 in a tank for 16 1/2 minutes and printed in carbon.
Jim
Well, I thought I would post some follow up info for everyone using this film. I have been working on finding the developing that works the best for me and my eventual required negative density range for my carbon printing using the green sensitive film.
Here is a what I found. I develop in Pyrocat-Hd. I am using 1 gallon tanks and developing 4 sheets at a time. I am using 30ml of A, 30ml of B and 3600ml of water. I presoak for 5 minutes and then agitate for 1 1/2 minutes and then 10 seconds agitation every three minutes. I develop this way for 18 1/2 minutes and then I agitate normally for the last 3 minutes. 10 seconds every minute. The negatives match a similar image I have on Efke 25. My DR came in at 2.45Dr which for a carbon printer is very nice. The tonal ranges is outstanding with great shadow detail and the highlights under control. I can't wait to print the negatives. I do not have a way to scan the negatives and post them but I will post the print when I get it done. This works very well for me and my process and YRMV. I used an ISO of 80 for the green sensitive film BTW.
Jim