some portraits on kodak br/a
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7520/1...cc9bcf04_z.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/...362f204b_z.jpg
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some portraits on kodak br/a
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7520/1...cc9bcf04_z.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/...362f204b_z.jpg
Пятно на передней линзе?
Мне все же кажется что это с процессом что то , у меня подобные пятна выразили когда то с пленкой листовой при "стоячей" проявке. В кювете по идее быть не должно, но кто знает. А барабана нет попробовать, повращать? Потому что края замечательные, резкость отличная и тона тоже.
"In an Arc"
Attachment 125507
Shot on 4"x10" Kodak Ortho Green Xray film (cut down 8" x 10" film)
Fuji 450 mm f12.5 lens @ f32, no filter
Developed with Rodinal 1:100 in Jobo
More sales from ZZ.
This a digital cart, but also used to show scans of analog imaging.
I post this only to show all things analog X-Ray are ending before our eyes.
This cart would be useful for a variety of imagings methods.
Buy more film.
8x10 Kodak CSG , 1:100 Adonal rotary
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/...aaac4e84_b.jpgBlack Diamond voyages - 3 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
One of my first attempts with xray film:
Fuji Green Xray
Goerz Artar 19"
Ilford Warmtone
Nice. Why are there two? Do they differ by exposure?
Thanks! I couldn't figure out how to get rid of the image after attaching it by mistake again. I was hoping it would tell me how large the image could be when I uploaded too, but I didn't see that. I'll have to hunt around and find that before posting another image. This film really scratches easy, but I think I have the processing down now. I used Rodinal 1:200 but seems like 1:100 gives better contrast. I'm doing dbi and because the back side is emulsion I'm not seeing the highlights like I do with regular film, but 9-12 minutes seems in the ballpark. Anyone have any pointers on what to look for? Seems like you can only look at the highlights on the exposed emulsion side by tilting the film slightly in the light. No inspection by transmission...
thanks, Will
8m , Rodinal 1:150, rotary
8x10 Kodak CSG
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8679/...81b9525f_b.jpgShort break by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Attachment 125768
Ektascan @80 ISO | HC-110 H Rotary
My first 8x10 shot and first X-ray shot! Question for X-ray shooters: Why is this showing up almost solarized? Is it the film or a scanning issue?
edit: It could be that I overdeveloped and it looks like this as a result of bringing everything down keep highlights from blowing out. I'm not sure, I hate scanning. I need to contact print it.
Logan, I never seen solarizing effect except for loading film backwards when it's one sided :)
Sergei, I'm pretty sure both sheets were loaded with the emulsion facing the right way. Maybe "solarizing effect" was a bad way for me to describe it, but I think if you look at my image and your image above it, you can see that the tones are WAY different.
Logan - you referring to flat bright surfaces with lot of grain? (just trying to figure out then). If so - then it means negative was too dense or too thin. Scanner doesn't handle either condition too well, when pushed to extreme.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7484/...1b8b913f_c.jpg
Another shot, this time at ISO 100 developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 7:30 rotary.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8622/...70b3bfd1_z.jpg
And the other. This one rated at ISO160.
Wish I would have thought about blocking the light from hitting the damn backdrop, but them's the breaks.
no problem :) not sure if it helped much though :) But generally, at least with Kodak CSG (double sides) - i am yet to see "overdevelopment" . I can screw up exposure every now and then, but i left properly exposed film in R09 (which is pretty active formula) developer for periods up to 1 hour without any ill effect, while experimenting with various dilution ratios.
shot a few with the pinhole camera and xray film, 8x10 a fellow that was there asked me if it was medium format
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/...36f4f1e6_z.jpgfamily plot by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/...94e7bea5_z.jpggiant bible by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/...4fd56047_z.jpgfirst commandment by goldenimageworks65, on Flickr
That last one is very Walkerish. Very nice.
810 CSG, 8m rotary in 280ml of 1:150 Adonal
Playing with Dallmeyer 3D here, trying to figure out uses.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8672/...67239e7a_o.jpgFlower study #32 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
wow I love the smoothness of this one!
Yeah, every new sheet i make with that lens seems to draw me more and more in awe of how well those handmade lenses were.
(same processing as above)
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8614/...3bbd4de4_o.jpgFlower study #33 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Ordered a box of 18x24 Fuji HR-E 30, which it cut down to 9x12. Much easier to work with than the decades old Kodak XDM that I got from my lab.
http://i.imgur.com/JbCeUrOl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/h9PtGREl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GfHPx8g.gif
very nice Towolf!!!
Large format stop motion, you don't see that every day.
Ja, I couldn’t decide on a version. First has the best smoke, second has best exposure, and third has better DoF for texture on the pomegranates in the background. Hence I made a little flipbook.
Nice results Twowolf!
Go to this website, scroll down and take a look at the spectral sensitivity of this particular Chinese X-ray film. When I look at the chart, it appears to be sensitive to UV, and blue, yellow to red, but not to green. They recommend working under a very dark green safelight filter. I would love to check this film out... if it's still available.
http://www.luckyfilm.com/html/produc...165931_91.html
[url=https://flic.kr/p/q6oUoF]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/...7beb725b_z.jpg
This was shot on Fuji HR-S x-ray film, rated at ISO 80, using a Sinar P 8x10 camera and a Fujinon 210w lens. Exposure was 16 seconds at f/11. Developed in Kodak Xtol at a dilution of 1:1 for 6 minutes.
Oh, no problem at all. At work they kept calling me zweiwolf, duowolf, biwolf, doublewolf, etc. Those sysadmins were bored out of their wits I think.
I got bored myself and made a macro abstract (phone preview to test my new 4x5 LED light plate)
http://i.imgur.com/lOmKdwu.jpg
Fascinating!
I agree. I opened the thread, and Whoa!
Fuji super rx blue
http://www.wozaczynski.com/blog/wp-c...Untitled-2.jpg
I have a question, if nobody minds me asking. I've lurked here for a long time, but have never had a reason to post...
After reading a large chunk of this thread, I'm still unsure on which film I want to buy. I never bothered with xray film in 4x5, since Arista Edu 100 is so cheap, but recently decided to play with 5x7, and my film options are far more limited and more expensive. Xray seems to be the budget hero. My plan is to buy 8x10 stock, cut it down, notch the sheets, and then strip the emulsion from the 'back' side. I'd probably just contact print the negs, since I only have a 4x5 enlarger.
What's a reliable go-to film/developer combination to start with? I was planning to dev with rodinal 1:100 in a print drum (hence stripping the back side off, since usually my negs stick to the inside of the drum). I was planning to buy either Fuji HR-T green, or Carestream's private label Kodak green product.
I discovered from this thread that ektascan is one sided: http://www.zzmedical.com/8x10-in-car...ideo-film.html Might cut the need for the stripping part out of your plan. I use rodinal 1:100 and pyrocat-hd 2:2:100 with the kodak green, but I use a slosher tray made from acrylic cut out with a laser cutter similar to the one that photo formulary has. Thanks, Will
Yes, I also reccomend Kodak's Carestream Ektascan as it is not only one sided, but has anti haloid backing. When you cut your film to fit your holders, just make a notch in the cutoff piece match the one left from the 8X10 sheet. Rodinal works very well, and so does D-23. I like a water bath rinse as well.
I recommend getting an 8x10 camera so you don't have to cut anything :) but yea Ektascan in Rodinal is good, still haven't quite gotten it down yet.