Been a while since I shot any X-ray...this is on 8X10 green, homemade 13" lens...in my back yard...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r0fmui9ko6...g845b.jpg?dl=1
Printable View
Been a while since I shot any X-ray...this is on 8X10 green, homemade 13" lens...in my back yard...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r0fmui9ko6...g845b.jpg?dl=1
Interested in details on your homemade lens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
I had a bunch of Series 7 filter adapters and had a +3 close-up filter in that size, so I just made a lens out of the +3 filter and a stack of about 5-6 of the adapters (screwed together makes a black tube of about 30mm in length) , mounting the lens at the rear of the tube and making an aperture out of black construction paper, and mounting that at the front of the tube...kind of like an unscientific attempt at copying a Wollaston Meniscus lens (concave side of the close-up filter facing the subject)Quote:
Originally Posted by desertrat
Anyway, wide open it is about f/7 but is very soft, so the aperture I made comes out to about f/16 - still soft'ish but doesn't create a lot of "glow" in the image. The aperture is about 20mm in front of the glass - guess I should experiment by moving it closer to see how that affects the image quality - just haven't gotten around to it.
Note - since the filter adapters are 55mm, I purchased a 77mm-55mm step down ring and used that to make my mounting flange - just drilled three holes in it for the screws to mount it to my wooden lens-board.
Good morning (although it's probably evening in your part of the world). The developer you listed is a lith film developer that would work but may not give the results you've been seeing here. Others here are guaranteed to give you more information on this subject as I've never used the stuff only read about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sinus2001
However, if you go to this site you - http://www.drfrankenfilm.com/diy-rodinal/4575179217 -you will find a recipe for a do it yourself Rodinol which should make your life much easier in regards to developing your x-ray film to match what you're seeing in this thread.
Good Luck
mike
Some have had good luck developing X-ray in coffeenol as well - just google coffeenol for recipes.
This was a 4x5 transparency, put in the enlarger and enlarged onto a sheet of 10x12 green xray film into a negative, then contact printed as a Kallitype.
Attachment 166671
Coogee Beach, Sydney Australia, judging by the costumes around the 1920's
I have tried a couple of times to "print" onto X-ray film and have never had it work. Even a step wedge that wasn't stepping. What type of light source and how much light? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
I used to do something Dean Collins called "white light printing" where you measured the white light (no neg) coming from the enlarger. That way you could enlarge, reduce, or use another enlarger and get the same print. Miss my darkroom. A glossed over explanation is in this video called Black and White Standardization at the 4:55 to 5:44 mark - https://youtu.be/4aNysC-X8T0?t=293
I now use an opal bulb in a veggie can hung from the ceiling. In the half of the bathroom that is the laundry area. Yep, the dustiest and hairiest place in the apartment to print film.
Hi Michael, my setup was fairly easy, I found the fstop on the enlarger lens that would suit the exposure I wanted for the xray film, which I rate at iso 80. I think it was about a 6 second exposure for 10x12, made a holder for my glass positive that would fit into the enlarger light tight and exposed onto the xray film. Turned out pretty well.
Thanks
Looks like the bulb may be too warm for the green high speed film. 30 seconds with only minor fogging on the step wedge. I think there is a blue or even an old tungsten black light bulb somewhere that could be swapped out...
I've tried exposing x-ray film under a normal enlarger (fitted with a bog standard incandescent enlarger bulb) and it worked just fine. I gave up on it as contrast control was a b*tch and it would take quite a bit of experimenting to work out a predictable process. But the light source itself really works just fine. Odds are something else is going wrong, because both the blue- and the green sensitive film can effectively be exposed under a regular enlarger. The fact that the color temperature is quite low doesn't mean there's nothing going on in the blue and green part of the spectrum. After all, that's also where your variable contrast paper is being exposed, and that works quite alright, doesn't it ;)