I'm suprised at that, seezee! But it's reassuring to hear.
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I'm suprised at that, seezee! But it's reassuring to hear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
Gorgeous shot!
I've used the Grafmatics exclusively for a few years now, only started using X-ray film though. I loaded both Grafmatics and standard carriers with X-ray for last weeks' reenactment and certainly can see why pinching film into and out of a Grafmatic septum is less prone to scratches. A word of caution though. When loading the Grafmatics I noticed some of my cut films were slightly undersized and easily slid out of the septa. So I make it a point when using the Grafmatic vertically to operate the slide from the bottom rather than the top. My fear is the film sliding out and jamming.
I pinched the film into the standard carriers as well, but then used another sheet of film, corner first, under the film being unloaded, not sure if it helped, only had a few scratches over all.
Since the biggest issue appears to be scratching when wet, maybe using Pyrocat HD that hardens the emulsion helped me out.
This one was over exposed by a stop and a half to two stops, turned to shoot quickly and didn't adjust the aperture. Despite the massive light leak it's still possible to get a usable image from this film with Silverfast and the Epson 750 with this much over exposure. I don't think it's as forgiving on the under exposure side though.
Graflex Super D, Gundlach Petzval, half speed Blue X-ray film @ 25, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 jobo 6 min.
Pleasant Hill, LA 2017
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2911/3...10f9ac19_b.jpg
Re scratching: I've never had any issues with xray film scratching when dry, but all the more so when wet. I use standard holders and that works fine, but you may want to sand down the sharp edge on the bottom lid (the one that hinges on the holder itself) as that is the only part that I've once suspected of scratching dry film in my personal experience.
I virtually only develop xray film in pyrocat and alas, it seems to scratch as readily as with the rodinal I used before.
It seems to be the dark slide itself that is scratching my film, If they are old and slightly bowed they do damage, I keep meaning to sand the edges to rid them of burrs. I use silicone baking paper in the doubles to avoid contact with the hinged flap, but still get a few scratches. Alan thankyou, I like your shot, it looks of the era. I don't mind a bit of overexposure, scanning and adjusting gives a bit more shadow detail, underexposing you don't have the detail to start with. I recently acquired an old "Amato" stand dev tank, only holds three sheets, but worked really well and no scratches, and of course my modified mod 54 works well.
Steam engine at the old leather factory.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2841/3...9302100a_c.jpgLF-2017-003.jpg by Hans Spieringhs, on Flickr
Camera: ONDU 8x10 pinhole with yellow/green filter
Film: Fuji HR-T (e.i. 100)
Exposure: 16m40s
Development: R09 1+50 6min.
Overview of the complete engine (6x17 pinhole)
https://flic.kr/p/yWPYCh
Excellent capture, Hans; I saw it elsewhere, but it remains inpressive, really nicely done!
At what grade would this print on variable contrast paper, do you reckon?
Nice! Just managed to hold back that light from the window, great shot!
!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
How should I know.
I'll probably use this negative for some cyanotypes, when the weather is good enough. 😁
Well, it would make a nice contact print on VC paper as well ;) I'm asking because it helps others (and myself) to understand what the DR is of a negative exposed and processed this way.
It'll make a gorgeous cyanotype I'm sure; if it prints just eight for that process, you have effectively answered my question ;)
Btw, if the sun keeps hiding for too long, feel free to drop by to use my exposure box!