Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

In this instance you can just tell people that you were shooting the Northern Lights. :-)

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Originally Posted by Thodoris Tzalavras

5 hours exposure on Agfa x-ray film, with a 135mm Optar at f/4.7 on a 4×5″ Speed Graphic.
Tray developed for 10min in D76 (1+5) at 24C, with minimal agitation.
Scan from negative, finished in PS.

This was a test for nightscapes with very long exposures.
Obvious marks of uneven development and scratches from handling.

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i keep meaning to try it and yet never seem to get around. Thank you for sharing such an interesting experiment.

Has anyone, pardon my ignorance, here used 72 IR filter with xray film ? Also, similar for pola filter ? I'm wondering what sorts of results I should expect ?
Thanks.

Les

An IR filter on blue or green sensitive film will result in no image I would think.

Polarizer works as it would normally, with the caveat of you still have to consider the spectral response of the film (darker blue skies will still be very bright with blue-sensitive film).

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Originally Posted by Fr. Mark

You could file notches in the film holder flap edge to positively identify what holder each film came from. I find it a big help in tracking films and finding problem holders. It only works if there is enough exposure in that part of the film to expose the edge under the flap, of course. And, you will need to clean the holder. I used needle files. And, I used a system where V notches are at one edge and are 1-4, a rectangular/flat notch adds, 5, and round/U notches add 10. I got the idea from JB Harlin's articles on his website: jbhphoto.com

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Further thoughts on this: a while back I purchased some punches with the idea of punching my film with ones and zeros. In other words, binary. The method in JB Harlin's essay could be highly simplified by using binary. You'd only need 2 files and the number of notches you'd need to make would be greatly reduced. For instance, I have 27 4×5 holders, so the longest code I could need to make would only 6 digits long

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Originally Posted by Thodoris Tzalavras

Seezee,
Contact printing and enlarging, are two very different things.
For the first one, all you need is a light source connected to a timer. Any, and I mean that literally, any enlarger will do.
For enlarging, things get complicated fast. If you need more info on that, let me know.
My suggestion was for contact printing only.

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You'll be happy to know that, after much research, I pulled the trigger on an LPL 4500 II from fleaBay, in any case. Needs a negative carrier & a longer lens, but otherwise complete. My friend who introduced me to photography a few years ago (he gave my his Leica M3 and a Hasselblad 500 he wasn't using) was encouraging me to explore making my own prints, after learning about my x-ray project, so don't think it's your fault!

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Originally Posted by seezee

Further thoughts on this: a while back I purchased some punches with the idea of punching my film with ones and zeros. In other words, binary. The method in JB Harlin's essay could be highly simplified by using binary. You'd only need 2 files and the number of notches you'd need to make would be greatly reduced. For instance, I have 27 4×5 holders, so the longest code I could need to make would only 6 digits long

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Yes but I can't 'read' binary.

Many use the Tally to count film sheets used, which may correspond to notches better than an entire different code.

Not that one would need that correlation, would we?

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Originally Posted by Corran

An IR filter on blue or green sensitive film will result in no image I would think.

Polarizer works as it would normally, with the caveat of you still have to consider the spectral response of the film (darker blue skies will still be very bright with blue-sensitive film).

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I actually tried an IR filter with xray film one time, hoya r72 and yes Corran is correct .. no image

Thanks for sharing. Not sure when I will move up to ULF but it's good to be reminded it doesn't have to be astronomically expensive or time consuming.

Thanks guys.

Michael, I'm afraid I live too south to be able to use that excuse.

Sergei, judging from the rest of your pictures, I look forward to see your results.
By the way, one thing I never solved to my satisfaction is scratches and handling marks.
I get the 15x30cm sheets which I cut down to 4x5". This requires 4 successive cuts. Which is too much handing for this film. I have perfected (as much as possible) this process, but I still get some scratches and bruises now and then. And it's frustrating when the best shot of the lot ends up on the worst affected sheet of film.
So, I finally bought some bits and pieces to build a semi-diy 8x10 to see if shooting un-cut film will solve this problem.

Seezee, the 4500 is an excellent enlarger. I used it for a while, some 20 years ago, and was thoroughly impressed. Only (very minor) negative thing I remember, is that the one I used suffered from light leaks. Nothing that a little black tape couldn't fix. I'm sure you'll enjoy printing with it. I did.