Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Cross posting from the other x-ray thread, since this contains some technical information:

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I've got my first* test shots made with Kodak Ektascan B/RA up at my blog. Wista 45DX with Schneider Symmar-S 5,6/150 lens & yellow-green filter, no allowance for filter factor, bellows draw, or reciprocity made.


Rated at ISO 25, 50, 80, and 160, respectively, and brush/semi-stand developed in Pyrocat HD (1:1:200; 66.5º F ~19º C.) semi-stand for 15 minutes, except for #1 (ISO 50), which was underexposed and required an hour in the soup. #2 was developed the next day as a slightly cooler temperature.

All images developed under red safelight, one-at-a-time, in smooth-bottom 5×7 trays. Developer replaced for each negative.

The blog entry has a much more detailed write-up of my exposure & development.

I'm still trying to figure out why #3 is darker than #2; maybe I mixed them up at some point?

I'd like your comments and criticisms on the technical aspects of the images & I'll probably cross-post to the other thread for the same feedback; I have no experience & therefore no basis to determine proper density, contrast, etc. for film negatives. My hope is to eventually have silver-gelatin enlargements made (I'll have to job that out, as I don't have a proper darkroom or enlarging equipment). My own reaction is the #2 is the best exposure of the lot.

Attachment 142992
Unaltered Scan (except for inverting the curves to make a positive image)
Attachment 142993
Adjusted Curves

*These are actually my second tests, but I mis-measured the Pyro (3:3:100!) on the first batch & did not like the results, so not showing them here.

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You could file notches in the film holder flap edge to positively identify what holder each film came from. I find it a big help in tracking films and finding problem holders. It only works if there is enough exposure in that part of the film to expose the edge under the flap, of course. And, you will need to clean the holder. I used needle files. And, I used a system where V notches are at one edge and are 1-4, a rectangular/flat notch adds, 5, and round/U notches add 10. I got the idea from JB Harlin's articles on his website: jbhphoto.com

Another note I have mainly decided to number the sides i.e. 1 and 2 are different sides of the same holder. A/B distinctions were too confusing. And the 5 mark goes in the middle and the 10's far side from the ones. So if film exposure is making marks ambiguous, position helps make things more clear.

JB's website is wonderful. I just read his essay on Camera Flare. Great advice!

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Originally Posted by Fr. Mark

You could file notches in the film holder flap edge to positively identify what holder each film came from. I find it a big help in tracking films and finding problem holders. It only works if there is enough exposure in that part of the film to expose the edge under the flap, of course. And, you will need to clean the holder. I used needle files. And, I used a system where V notches are at one edge and are 1-4, a rectangular/flat notch adds, 5, and round/U notches add 10. I got the idea from JB Harlin's articles on his website: jbhphoto.com

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It almost looks like 2 through 4 are severely fogged; 2 in the upper left corner and 3 and 4 along the sides. What kind of safe light do you use? You mention you don't have a darkroom; how did you handle the negatives and are you sure there were no light leaks along the line?
Scans don't say too much, as a lot depends on scanning settings and post processing. The digital versions all look low in contrast to me, but that says very little about the actual negatives. I find that apart from densitometry, actual printing (alt process or silver gelatin) is a good way to get a feel for the actual contrast of the negatives. Especially as you gain experience, it becomes easier to see in the negative itself where an issues with exposure or handling exist. It took me about 60 sheets of green sensitive xray film to figure out how to use it properly (generic film, not ektascan). Blue sensitive film is easier to handle as it's less likely to fog under various sensitiveafelights.

I can't remember how many sheets i went through to get started.. I think main issues for me were scratches, not development. But then i didn't spend much time thinking about it, i just went with what i used on other film..

From back then.

8x10, Kodak CSG, rotary, R09, can't remember dilution and times, but given it was time i dealt with Ilford and Arista - most likely we talking 15m to 30m with 1:50-1:150 dilution (hey its been nearly 3 years!)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8524/...199a31b0_b.jpgScan-130331-0005www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/...748a7a64_b.jpgScan-130413-0011www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

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Originally Posted by seezee

...I'd like your comments and criticisms on the technical aspects of the images...

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When I first started using x-ray film in 2007, I just did some basic tests like the ones described here:
http://www.viewcamera.com/pdf/2006/V...%20Started.pdf

Contact printing your negatives is the best (and cheapest) way to see what's actually in them. It will help you pin down the exposure/development scheme that best fits your needs. A used enlarger can be had for next to nothing. You just need a light source that provides controllable and repeatable exposures.

Also, the main thing is to find a way to control (as much as possible) all the parameters, from handling, to processing, to printing. Changing only one thing at a time, while keeping everything else constant, is the fastest way to learn what works and what doesn't.

Here's one from 2008.

Speed Graphic 4x5" with a 0.25mm pinhole.
Agfa CP G+
Exposure 2min.
Developed by inspection in Rodinal 1+300 at 20C for 5min.

Scan from negative, finished in PS.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5785/...7313142d_b.jpg

Sergei, those are gorgeous... but I'm very disappointed the X-ray film couldn't see through.

And here is one from the Total Lunar Eclipse on the 28th of September, 2015.

Speed Graphic 4x5, with Optar 135mm, at f/8.
90 minute exposure (from the beginning of the Partial Eclipse until the Maximum).
Agfa x-ray film (CP G+).
Developed in Ilford MG 1+100 at 20C for 9min.

Scan from negative, finished in PS.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5742/...9e4dc814_b.jpg