Very nice image! Very pinholey......Quote:
Originally Posted by GF1973
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Very nice image! Very pinholey......Quote:
Originally Posted by GF1973
I asked FPP about "stand" development with x-ray film, and this was their answer:Obviously, Ektascan may not be as troublesome being single-emulsion. I'd be interested to hear who has done stand development with x-ray film, especially using the 'taco' method, and especially with pyrocat. What dilution did you use? Development time? Did you control the temperature, or just trust that the longer development would even things out?Quote:
Hi Chris,
Mat Marrash here from the Film Photography Project. My apologies for the delayed reply, this message got lost in the shuffle of all other things FPP.
In answer to your question about stand/semi-stand development, x-ray film doesn't respond well to full stand development like traditional panchromatic and other modern, orthochromatic films. I believe a big reason for that is the double sided emulsion present on the film, which increases the chances for bromide drag two-fold. In working with both blue and blue/green x-ray films with diluted Pyrocat HD, I've found that any more than two minutes between agitations will result in streaking/drag, meaning even semi-stand is out of the question. Another potential complication is the very short average developing time of these films. The longest I've been able to extend development on these films to is 16 minutes, but this is using an incredibly weak amount of Pyrocat HD that oxidizes and exhausts quickly.
For the best consistency, I recommend standard agitation of x-ray films. If you're looking to control contrast, simply develop the film by inspection under a weak red safelight, and pull the film into a cold water bath if the highlights start emerging before two minutes in the developer.
Hope this helps, and if you have any other x-ray film related questions, please feel free to ask.
-Mat M.
A second area I'm unsure of relates to my (proposed) makeshift darkroom, which will be my bathroom. I covered the window with blackout cloth (held in place with gaffer tape). Closed all shades & curtains in the house, then closed hallway doors to block any remaining light from adjacent rooms. After closing bath door & waiting for eyes to adjust, I can barely make out some light leaking around the door frame, as well as some light coming through the blackout cloth. Is this enough to fog Ektascan when I trim it with the paper cutter (working under 7.5 watt red safelight)? Do I need to tape up the door frame & double my cloth thickness before proceeding? Thanks!
My darkroom situation is similar (in the sense that I can just make out some light leaking past the door), and it doesn't cause fog that I can actually detect with my eyes. There's bound to be some, but it's not an issue.
Good to hear. I'm going to try to minimize exposure by keeping the shower curtain behind me as I work over the tub & immediately putting trimmed film in a clean box. Using the Yankee tank should also minimize exposure during developing.Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
I develop by sight, so the film I use is generally exposed for about 7 minutes to the safelight and whatever stray light peeps into the room. If I cut to 4x5 it's probably about 11 minutes, but I haven't shot much LF lately and only 8x10 at that.
Hello All,
New to this Forum, but not to LF photography. I've been shooting 4x5 and 8x10 for nearly 40 years now. I never thought about shooting x-ray film, but with the price of 8x10 HP5+ I thought I'd give it a go. However, I visited the csxonline.com site and it seems that the only size they sell is 14x17? The Film Photography Project sells a 25 sheet box for $40, but based on reading this thread it seems like I ought to be able to get 100 sheets for around that price. For any of you shooting the 8x10 size, where do you buy your film?
Thanks!
Csxonline does sell 8x10, you just have to drill down a bit by selecting a film then clicking more info.
Also try zzmedical they sell the 8x10 single sided film mentioned in previous posts for $80 per 100 sheets.
Hello Martin,
Thanks! Didn't realize I had to click the "More Info" button to see all the sizes. I see that CXS has "CXS Ortho Green Film by Agfa" and "CXS Green Latitude Film by Agfa". I'd like to try the green sensitive emulsion first, but which one? Or, does it not matter?
Thanks!
Can't help with a specific recommendation I am afraid as I have not tried any yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan9940
I just bought some of the single sided film from zzmedical but have yet to try it.
This thread is quite lengthy but there is some great info in it and I am sure other members will help you with a choice.
Latitude film is designed to have the lesser contrast of the two films Alan9940 mentioned. In x-ray terminology, "ortho" means green-sensitive, as opposed to "regular" which is blue-sensitive. The film is exposed indirectly via the (green or blue) phosphorescence of the intesifying screens of the film holders rather than directly via x-rays to reduce radiation exposure to the patient. The specteral response of the film affects the tonality of the image in rendering certain colors into monochrome tones.
R.