All of the films have the round corners.
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All of the films have the round corners.
Man, that's gotta be a deal breaker for some.................Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald
The round corners are nearly lost in the rebate.
Now if you are a rebate connoisseur, buy real FILM.
Just got my big Acculight boxes up and first on is 8x10 X-Ray. Looks good to me.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/...ee669d0e_c.jpgX-Ray Rebates by moe.randy, on Flickr
Would someone please give me a short primer on the different sorts of X-ray film.
I’m looking to buy some 10x12 film for landscapes, so presumably that means using a “green” film rather than a “blue”?
Some films have a blue base (e.g. Fuji UM-MA and AD-M), which presumably makes for difficult printing, especially on multigrade paper. Is that correct, or doesn't it matter?
Some films have emulsion on both sides, which doesn’t sound like what I want, correct?
A lot of films listed on eBay are described simply as “green x-ray” film (e.g. Konica PPG and Doctor’s Choice DC-G). Are these suitable?
Many thanks.
I'm not sure anybody has tested ALL X-Ray film for our spurious usage.
Most seem to pick one and use it, as they now have 100 sheets of very cheap 'film' that may produce images that emulate historical film 100 years out of production.
Some experts here have proposed creating a 'Sticky"' topic to deal with these common questions. Never happened. I am not that guy.
I was once in your position. I picked KODAK made Carestream CSG in many sizes. http://www.classicxray.com/kodaktmatg.html
It's 2 sided and Blue in tint. Blue to make viewing easier on Dr eyes. AFAIK all X-Ray film is blue tint. I may be wrong, I often am. All seems to have round corners, but my sample % is small.
Blue or Green is an X-Ray Trade designation of how the medical X-Ray emitter and the X-Ray Cassette converts Rays to film. An X-Ray Cassette is not the same as our film holders, but it once was. Confusing. We know.
We all use different ISO/ASA #, some use 40 others 80. That's just a starting point just as ASA is just a number on 'normal' film. X-Ray is High speed or not, whatever that means.
EU has different manufacturers and sizes. Asia differs.
I find one LED bulb works best for safe light, at 4 ft. YMMV. Others disagree. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../attributes/13
I buy only from this source. I buy green which is blue, I buy this film. https://www.zzmedical.com/x-ray-acce...-ray-film.html
I also buy this film, but for that you need to read the history in the thread. It's not better, it's different. https://www.zzmedical.com/x-ray-acce...ideo-film.html
Expect others to differ. This is a free forum.
The advantage of the film Randy recommends is that it's single sided, and has an anti-halation coating. The single side aspect makes it much easier to develop (in tubular daylight tanks, for instance, since you don't need to worry about damage to the emulsion layer on the back where it contacts the tank walls), and it will also be sharper. And it costs more: I use Fuji HR-U, which is a "green" film, because I delight in cheap, but that's the only good reason for it, and probably my cheap film was negated by the need to purchase a full set of hangers and tanks to avoid scratching the back of the film, but I do happen to like processing that way, and would have done that anyway.
I cannot begin to say enough nice things about Randy's safelight recommendation! It is perfect for the job.
Randy is spot on, at least as far as my experience goes. I would have loved to try single sided mammography film, but it's virtually impossible to get in Europe at a reasonable price. I've recently switched to fomapan for 8x10 due to the easier processing, wider spectral response and better sharpness. I use fomapan in all formats, which also helps in terms of standardizing on processing parameters. Nevertheless, I've managed to get some good results with xray. And yes, most of it is double sided, and as far as I know, corners are always rounded and the base always has a blue tint. This doesn't interfere with printing or scanning in my experience; perhaps the blur base increases contrast with VC paper, but I use xray mostly for alt process printing and it appears to transmit uv light very well. With VC paper, I get good results as well; the blue base doesn't seem to be a problem in any respect. You can't beat the bang for the buck that xray film offers; despite its challenges, I find this remains true, particularly in 8x10 and ULF.
I think the speeds are different, green is normally about iso 100, this depends on your own personal exposure and developing routines. I read some entries on this thread that use green as low as iso 40. My own preference is at iso80. Blue is a higher speed and is produced in half speed blue at approx iso100 and full speed which I have not used but is said to be around iso200.
I've tried one type of blue, which is labeled 'high speed' iirc and a realistic EI in daylight with normal contrast was about 50, the same as the green stuff I had from the same brand. I've yet to come across as credible test that places it at 200 - although there are quite a few people who expose xray of any kind at 200 and don't worry about the lost shadow detail.
I use the half speed blue at the same iso as my Agfa green at about 80, what did you notice are the main differences between blue and green?