Printable View
Yes, mottling can creep in if one is not careful. Agitate more, or dilute developer a tad more to extend dev time. I never get mottling with single-sided xray as I develop in BTZS tubes. In a tray however, one should be aware. Thanks for bringing that up, gbogatko.
Tonight I've tried to develop x-ray negative in caffenol without agitation. Just some initial moving of tray on the begining and and the very end of the process.
Looks fine and I don't have to stay in the bathroom for 15min ;) Well, to be sure I could go once or twice and move the tray a bit. Just in case.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7334/1...50f0333e_o.jpg
i dont. I also dont do premature aborting of development..Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Not doing hawk watching over going minute or two longer in development if someone calls me while i am doing things either.. (except for colour processing.. got to do it there, but not with b&w). But what do i know.
Getting out of IR work I think, the B+W filter I have I would like to get rid of, but in the mean time running through my stash.
Cheater image, shot on my 4x5 with roll film adapter.
Attachment 110025
Precipice Peak, Acadia National Park, Maine, USA
8m, R09 1:100, rotary.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/1...4c51cffa_c.jpg
Pair by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Yes. That worked. Specifics?Quote:
Originally Posted by grzybu
It worked with little bit exhausted developer but another try with fresh one caused heavy mottling so it's better to agitate.
https://ycpi-farm8.staticflickr.com/...3854b7f4_c.jpg
Stephen by Lee Smathers, on Flickr
8x10 Korona, 12" Dagor, Fuji HR-A in Rodinal 1:100 (tanks and hangars) for 4 min.
8x10 Contact Print on Ilford MGFB Warmtone in Moersch ECO 4812 and MT1 Selenium Toner 1:10 for 5 min.
Stone, is that an IR or Xray shot??
Gah!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Sorry, I don't know how I did that, I must have been reading the IR thread and not thinking.... It's definitely IR... DOH!
Mods feel free to remove it... I can't edit now... :/
Lets see... it's 11:20pm here in Vancouver... aren't you in the am there? Are you a night owl, Stone?
Stone stays up later than I do and he's an hour later, EDT vs CDT.
30 years of night shift, is a hard habit to break, for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Yea I'm definitely a night person...Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
well made. Contact print certainly looking better that scan on my poor monitor, but i like it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
Yesterday I've made 1 liter of D-23 developer. Caffenol is nice, but it's hard to see how developing is going and it takes 15 min to develop.
D-23 is transparent and it took only about 5-6min to develop.
Negative looks really nice, with dense highlights and almost completely clear shadows.
Should be nice for kallitype.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/1...17897885_o.jpg
http://u1.ipernity.com/40/52/05/3027...0f1f27.640.jpg
Out shooting some X-ray in the full sun! Seems to work pretty well. Very much so liking the Fuji Lens!
1897 Ak-sar-ben Camera - Fujinar 250mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray - Dektol 1+10 - Unaltered Negative Scan
Thanks, I'm trying to stay away from scanning my black and white negatives this year. I'm forcing myself to do more wet prints.Quote:
Originally Posted by ostrygad
I think this experiment was a great success! Where I grew up, (Hollywood) cameramen told me that any developer that brought out the subtle beauty of Greta Garbo is great stuff and it's called D-23!Quote:
Originally Posted by grzybu
Thanks :)
Yesterday I've tried another one with D-23 and I think I really like this developer. So easy to develop by inspection and it's quite fast, but not too fast so it's easy to see when to stop developing.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/1...52e2a729_o.jpg
Scan of Ektascan developed in very dilute pyrocat-hd. South Lawn Bld, at the recently closed down Riverview Hospital grounds.
While getting an X-Ray this weekend, I talked to the digital X-Ray tech and she told X-Ray analog film is becoming hard to get and thus all USA users are switching to digital asap. She had never heard of taking pictures with it.
Thanks for sharing your developer time / temp. What do you use for stop / clearing? Thanks AngusQuote:
Originally Posted by ScottPhotoCo
Hi Angus,Quote:
Originally Posted by angusparker
I use a water rinse as stop and Kodak fixer. I also use Kodak HypoClear.
Thanks. Images look nice. I can't believe how good this film works! I might come to prefer it over regular film - in some of my test images the Ektascan was better than FP4. Hard to believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottPhotoCo
Posted this on the current portrait thread, but it fits here, too. Second shot on Ektascan. Developed in HC-110 dil H, 6:10 at 20C, rotary with a Beseler print drum on a Uniroller.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/1...39971a38_c.jpg
img212 by Scott --, on Flickr
Images were a little hot, whether due to a little over exposure or over developing, but fully scannable. Grain is almost non-existent, at least compared to the Arista.EDU I'm used to shooting. Emulsion is way soft when wet; dry it seems fairly robust.
Another view but through magnifying glass, same film. I used a piece of black construction paper with a large hole.
Bananas.
Shot on plain ol' green cxs film. ISO 50 - dev in D23 2-bath.
Attachment 112607 Attachment 112608
Excellent! Interesting how the green lat film rendered the yellow skin...
Another Ektascan/Adonal test. Not liking this combination yet. 14" f/6 Petzval on 8x10 Ektascan BR/A. Adonal 1:110 6:15 at 20C.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2839/...a30d0be8_z.jpg
img214 by Scott --, on Flickr
Scott, I like the portraits of your son. But this one looks like it was out of focus and then (over) sharpened in Photoshop? Otherwise I don't see why the combo would be undesirable. It looks like good tones to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott --
Yeah, between PS and flickr it got a little too sharpened. The image required quite a bit of work to bring the contrast back down to a usable range. More than an equivalent shot on arista would have, and much more than similar shots of my daughter (above) did on this film in HC-110. More playing to do, but I'm not convinced of the combo yet.
I can't see any image... flickr says it's not there...Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
Some X-Ray film shots i made here recently.
The first shot was taken with Mamiya Yellow Filter to tame the contrast and yes it helps quite a bit.
Any other filters i could use for X-Ray film for landscape?
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fujinon 250mm 6.7 + Fuji HRT Green + Ilford ID-11 + Yellow Filter
1+3 8-9mins @ 20C EI 100
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/...8ca0b0fd_c.jpg
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fujinon 250mm 6.7 + Fuji HRT Green + Ilford ID-11
1+3 8-9mins @ 20C EI 100
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7266/...8072e309_c.jpg
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fujinon 250mm 6.7 + Fuji HRT Green + Ilford ID-11
1+3 8-9mins @ 20C EI 100
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3705/...64155b56_c.jpg
Sx70 in available light.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2939/...f4ca8567_c.jpg
2014-LF810-005.jpg by HoodedOne, on Flickr
Camera: Cambo SC 8x10
Lens: Agfa Repromaster 213/9.25
Film: Fuji HRT-Super X-ray film
Exposure: 14 sec. @ f9.25
Development: Rodinal 1+100 for 6 min. (constant agitation)
The leather on the SX70 is dark red. So it turns almost black on X-ray film
Hello everyone, name is Jeromie,
This is my first post to the xRay thread. From all of the reading I did here, and the good looking images, I decided to start shooting 8x10 once again (after about 13 years away). This is my oldest Son, Matthew. Shot this yesterday.
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/...ps27216fbf.jpg
KMV, 360mm f/9 Kowa Graphic
Agfa Green, rated at 320 (60th at f/11)
Open shade on his face, noontime sunlight on the side of his head
Placed his face on Zone VI
HC110 Dil B
70 degrees, Nitrogen burst on hangers, 2 second bursts, 10 seconds apart for 5 minutes. No presoak.
Copy shot with my Nikon D2x and a 35mm f/2 Nikkor. Some PS3 dodging and a slight tone (none of this really comes thru like it did on my old Apple G5). Should have the silver print made by this weekend. Was chasing film speed all weekend long, then StoneNYC gave me a clue - the 100 on the side of the box wasn't the ASA, it was the number of sheets in the box (I'm such a dope).
Haha great job! Looks like a little light leak fogging on his forehead? Or lens flare?Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrianfoto
Yeah, for some reason even though it's so simple, there's not a lot of discussion about the different speeds and the colors, and it's sort of like one of those things where once you know it it's sort of obvious so it's not really needed to be discussed and so of course the information is hard to track down, plus a lot of people just use their own personal EI's anyway.
There's also the double-sided emulsion factor, so some cool strip one side of the film and then of course the density is reduced and so that changes the printing and total exposure anyway, so it's just a baseline to go off of course and then you have to do your own fiddling, and as others have mentioned there are a few single-sided x-ray films out there.
My best friend is an x-ray technician so he gave me a few bits of information you might find interesting, the reason for having a double-sided emulsion is very simple, by having twice he amount of emulsion, the amount of x-ray that is needed to expose the film is then cut in half, this enables them to less x-ray wavelength into a person's body therefore reducing the risk of any kind of issues related to sending lots of X-ray radiation through the human body. So using the green x-ray film on a person is going to give them the least amount of exposure to x-ray radiation which is of course a good thing, but I guess for some purposes they needed to increase that for whatever reason so they have a few different kinds.
The light face was my fault, little too much dodging - the straight PS3 inversion made his skin tones come out about 2 stops too dark, but that could be because of bad digital exposure. I was shooting right into the sun though. Until I can make a silver print which is exposed for maximum black on the negatives edge for minimum time, I won't know if my exposure was right. I have a Mercedes diesel the needs my attention this coming weekend, I hope I can carve out some printing time too.
I no longer recommend stripping double-sided xray film. After testing and more testing, the tones look weak and image appears to be grainier. To the eye, the unstripped film image looks just fine.
Tenderobject,Quote:
Any other filters i could use for X-Ray film for landscape?
I have used various yellow filters up to a wratten #15, as well as wratten #11 (green) which is my favourite, on green latitude film.
Thank you! I've tried using yellow filter with a portrait and it helps minimize the contrast. Too bad my yellow filter was dirty when i shoot last time!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji HRT Green X-ray Film + Ilford ID-11
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3793/...95df0254_b.jpg
I never strip my double-sided x-ray negatives.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3746/...9a900cda_b.jpg
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji HRT Green X-ray Film + Yellow filter + Ilford ID-11
Ilam, Iran 2014
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/...b736c938_b.jpg
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji HRT Green X-ray Film + Ilford ID-11
Ilam, Iran 2014
Same here, I just develop it more carefully to avoid marks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Tenderobject,
Excellent landscapes. You make good use of the terrain and trees to serve as leading lines that takes the viewer's gaze into the distance. You also have a beautiful area in which to photograph.
Keith
Very nice, tenderobject. Did you shoot with a filter? Your images look like they were shot on conventional film. Good job!
Thank you very much Keith. I think i'm liking the 8x10 format and this film. Still trying to learn how to shoot 8x10 and process the film. It's quite fun!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Fleming
Hi Andrew, I did in the second to the last picture i posted. I think putting a yellow filter works and it tame the contrast and would benefit my shots because of the scenery. I will research and try other filters. I have Red, Orange and CPL here which i'm clueless if it would work with the X-ray film.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
I wouldn't expect to much when using a red or orange filter as X-ray film is not sensitive to red light.