Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me. I checked on the film you mention that has the anti-halation backing. I found a seller and can buy some, although its sold in a case of 5 boxes so kind of expensive.
Robert
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Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me. I checked on the film you mention that has the anti-halation backing. I found a seller and can buy some, although its sold in a case of 5 boxes so kind of expensive.
Robert
Don't know your seller, but price 'real' film to X-Ray and the difference is very high. 50 sheets of Tri-X 11X14 was $1100 last year. 125 sheets HP5 11X14 $1000. Last I looked 500 sheets of Ektascan 14X17 was also $1000. I cut 14x17 to 11x14 and use the cutoff for smaller formats from MF to 5x7.
Another film that could work for your purposes, although outside the scope of this thread, is the Arista Ortho Litho sold by Freestyle.
It has single side emulsion, anti-halation layer, fine grain, and (like xray) depending on processing (developer, dilution, agitation, temperature, time in the developer) can produce from very soft to very hard contrast.
In comparison to xray films, it's very thin (almost flimsy) and has a sensitivity closer to photo-paper than film, but it's easily obtainable in many sizes and quantities for testing.
I have just made a box of 4x5 film from Fuji UM-MA-HC film. It is a X-Ray mammo film sensitive to BLUE light. It is a High Speed*, High Contrast and High resolution film My question is which filters would be best for outdoor photography?
Have any of you used this film? Any tips?
* If I remember right it is 400 speed equivalent.
Thanks
Rob
Why did you choose that film? I don't know if anybody has tried it.
I see what it is here. http://www.umgxray.com/pdf/fujifilmxrayummadata.pdf
I doubt it's 400 ASA. Try 100 and lower.
Why not test a couple sheets and report your results? Use the dark slide to change exposure and make test strips
Since it's a mammography film, it may be single-sided with antihalation backing, but the data sheet isn't conclusive. Anyway, I'd expose at iso 80 without a filter or iso 50 it a yellow filter as a starting point, as most xray film seems to be usable in that range. A yellow filter is useful outdoors and I'm contrasty situations; besides bringing blue skies down a bit, it also seems to counteract halation a bit.
I have no experience with microdol (see your separate thread with a question on it) so I can't comment, but it's not that much work to figure out a development regime that works for your purposes. I tend to cut dilution of film developers in half compared to normal film dilutions. I'd personally start with 1+3 and develop by inspection in a tray under a tested safe light (deep red and dim) that won't fog the film. Note that safelight requirements are more specific for xray film than for paper due to its much higher speed.
I got a few cases free at work. ( just expired and have been in the refrigerated store room ) I will try it out. I've done "positive prints" using this film and the results are very good.
I tried out the Fuji UM-MA-HC Mammo film in my view camera today. Very windy here so I had to stay behind a wind break. Graphic View Camera, Wollensak Rapax 10". F-45 @ 2 seconds. 80B filter. I did not have a Yellow filter to fit this lens (55 MM) I will try it with out a filter. I have a "normal" lens and it will take my yellow filter.
Microdol-X straight up. Nine minutes at 63 Degrees F. Agitation every 30 seconds for two seconds, stop bath, fix for two minutes.
I got O.K tonal range, all of the zones are there. Now I need to play with exposure times and developer times/chems to see if I can get a little better whites. It's been 15 years since I've played with film for a camera.
Attachment 172987
I re-shot using a diff camera and lens. Crown Graphic Graflex 135mm lens. Yellow filter. 1.5 second exposure @ ASA 80 . Microdol-x 1:1 for nine minutes at 60 degrees F.
Very windy again today,trees blurred.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]173043
Merry Xmas to all my fellow photon collectors!