Pre-exposure test. Image on the bottom was pre-exposed in the field, on zone I. Both negatives were tray developed. Double-sided green x-ray film.
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Pre-exposure test. Image on the bottom was pre-exposed in the field, on zone I. Both negatives were tray developed. Double-sided green x-ray film.
I sure am going to try this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Thanks for the demo.
You are very welcome, Randy.
When I first started using xray I would make some decent (by my standards anyway(beginner)) negs, but would get the scratches and spoil the shot. Now I just have a companion piece of film (8x10 normally) with the emulsion cleaned off, that sits on the bottom of the tray, be it flat or grooved. I agitate constantly but gently and develop by inspection holding the neg up to the safe light. I try and only hold the small section of the neg that doesn't get exposed, the top or bottom 1/4 of an inch, use that same small section to peg the neg for drying. The same companion principle is used to load the neg into the film holder, I put a blank underneath the unexposed neg, load them both together, slide the unexposed neg home and pull out the blank, no probs.........so far!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Ah yes, I always forget something. I develop at 65 degrees, and thin out the soup until it takes fifteen minutes (or so) to complete development. Very gentle agitation, lifting the four corners of the tray slowly about a quarter inch. That's for the first minute, after that I repeat the whole routine about once a minute. I wear those supposedly impervious gloves to keep developer off my hands. I don't know why, as I've been tray developing for 65 years with wet hands and no problems, but I thought I oughta' do something "a la Moderne". After about 10 minutes, I check out progress by looking at my led safelight through the back. When I see shadow detail through the back starting, that's it. Don't keep the film out long enough to start to dry. Just a quick look.
I just hung some B/RA negs to dry and am happy to report several things. One, I think I have arrived at a easily printable neg on grade 2 paper. I exposed at 64 and developed for 8:30 in 1.2 liters of developer with 8ml Rodinal, 4.5ml of 1% solution of potassium iodide and 24ml of 2% solution of benzotriazole with some agitation at 30 second intervals. Happy reporting number two is that this was in an old Kodak film pack tank which holds 12 negs in taco style. 12 negs? These were 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 negs shot in a 1915 RB Tele-Graflex. Happy reporting number 3 was that the old Graflex with its ancient bag mag performed perfectly. The negs were cut from the B/RA on a rotary cutter with a taped down stop using two sheets of film emulsion to emulsion thus no scratches. Really happy to report number 4 that all the cutting, bag mag loading, and taco tank loading was done under a red Superbright LED taking much more time than I would have liked and exposing the film to much more and brighter red light than I would have thought would not be injurious and with no effect on the film. The LED made things so easy. I do have to say that the way the film fits into the taco tank there remained a little anti halation on the back after washing in the tank but it went away very quickly in the final tray rinse of distilled water and Edwal LFN.
Andrew, those comparison shots (wooded area) was one of the negatives "pre-flashed" ?...sorry, I missed that.
Les
Good to hear of your success and your Centennial camera!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chauncey Walden
My 18 shot 3x4 Bag Mag is loaded with Ektascan and I have a working RB, but I have 3x4 hangers to do the load.
I have never used a Bag Mag or RB but I have dry fired it enough to be ready.
Soon...
Yes. Pre-flashed in the field. I have a piece of translucent plastic that I read the scene through with my metre, then place over the camera lens.Quote:
Andrew, those comparison shots (wooded area) was one of the negatives "pre-flashed" ?...sorry, I missed that.
Les
Thanks, Andrew.
Les