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I have not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
I'm still getting those odd spots all over the negatives, so I decided I'd make photogram negatives to see how deep into the package of film the spots are. I didn't have any of those spots in my first 5 exposures. but I've done 15 more exposures that have spots...
Maybe I'll try the rotary method once. If those are all screwed up in the sky, then I will know for sure that it's the film that is messed up. I trust the rotary method. I haven't ever done a whole lot of tray processing.
Why not cut 8x10 into 7x 8.5 and put 2 pieces in the 7x17 holder and try developing that predictable film to see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
We don't want you frustrated!
Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
Frustrated, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
I feel like I did when I bought some Konica color film from UltrafineOnline. It was the first rolls I ever put through a bulk 35mm loader. No matter what I did lines were on the film. After changing loaders and everything, I finally figured out the film was messed up. This 2012 expired 7x17 xray film is messed up too. The dots in the sky were all over the film. I processed an extra 12 sheets that I exposed as a photogram and it was all full of those dots. I pulled out an 8x10 xray sheet and processed it as well. My 8x10 film is okay. Comparing the 8x10 and the 7x17 the film looks a little fogged? At least this box was free - though I have no doubt they would replace the film if something was wrong with it. Time, energy, and enthusiasm was lost. Going to pick up a new box tomorrow. Perhaps I'll get things right before the end of the week...
I had a bad experience with stripping my negatives too. Can anyone point me to a place that shows how to do the negative stripping?
Check Youtube. Bleaching Fuji FP 100 c negative. Looks very simple...Rde the Steattle guy
I need to do a video of me bleaching a negative.
Tape negative on glass or plexi, grab a paper towel.
Spray some bleach on said towel.
Slowly wipe bits , pay attention to corners and running down chemistry.
If you feel artistic - you can do it with brush and add another interesting set of effects to your negative
Lee, First attempt at stripping a few days ago and I messed mine up, too. Used a sponge brush but did a so-so (I later realized) taping job used blue painters tape. Problem was The plexi was barely big enough so couldn't tape the 11x14 negative down properly and some of the bleach got under the tape. Annoying but still not too bad. However, if that wasn't bad enough I wound up dropping the negative on the ground(!) -- and *that* scratched it up. ;) Live and learn. Used a Besseler tube, which I don't recommend unless you plan to strip. Despite a good soak there always seem to be a few places where the emulsion doesn't get any or enough developer. That was the only one (Fuji HR-U green) I've stripped so far but I'd still like to see what a contact print is like, density-wise, as I gave it my 'normal' 50 iso rating and 6 minute development time which I've used for Kodak B/RA. Otherwise, I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to strip.Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist
FWIW, Unicolor tube was better but still left ridge marks from the 'ribs' inside the tube (don't know if those will show up when printed, though, so leaving it be for now). Negative was also scratched along one edge but that might have been the holder. Gearing up to try trays with plexi on the bottom once I can properly affix my black-out material over the bathroom window (tape is a pain and unreliable, thinking of using a velcro system). Looks like even 1/8" plexi will work (stay submerged) for the bottom of the tray(s).
Repeating myself (yet again) but I do believe trays (KISS) will be better in the end but getting there is not as easy as I'd like it to be. ;) Liking your 7x17's even with surface defects and learning a lot from your experiences -- I'm sure you'll work out the kinks soon.