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I've been using the Bill Atkinson / Outback Print color test image for years to dial in color on my printer.
It would be great to have a reference for what green sensitive film can actually see. I don't have any green sensitive x-ray film right now, but maybe someone who does could take a picture of a color test image to compare?
Northlight has a whole page of test images to work from, so I'm sure there's something we could all download in order to compare.
According to a previous reply to this thread Blue Sensitive and Green sensitive only refer to the color phosphors to which the film is most sensitive.
Hey all, I searched to the best of my ability, but I just want to double check.. I bought some Fuji Super HR-U Medium Speed Green, what ISO should I be shooting at?
Start around 50-80, adjust to taste.
Fantastic, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
Is there a recommended starting point for that film using HC-110? Much appreciated.
I actually tried HC-110 recently and the results were very poor. But that was one test and I may have just been way off on development times/dilutions/etc.
I usually use Rodinal 1:100.
Remember these films aren't sensitive to the full spectrum of light. Your light meter will lie to you under incandescent light and v. early or v. late in the day out doors in natural light. You may need 1-2-3 stops of extra exposure or more depending on the situation. Mercifully, the film is inexpensive and you can do tests galore w/o breaking the bank.
if you reflect the light source off the recording side of a DVD or CD the full spectrum of the source will be visible. Anything more than a bare minimal band of red indicates the available light is very weak, or totally unsuitable for X-ray, or other ortho films.
I've been getting decent results using hc-110 1:70 for 7 minutes @ 20'cQuote:
Originally Posted by fulltang
After a few failed attempts, I successfully reversal processed an 8x10 sheet of Fuji HR-U. There were still some scratches owing to the very small volume of solutions I used during tray processing, but this was more a proof of concept so I'm happy with the result.
The key elements to doing this successfully are using a chrome alum stop bath after the first development and a dichromate (R-9) bleach step to preserve the fragile emulsion. 2nd development reused the 1st developer 1+50 Rodinol.
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