Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Practice with stiff paper. Do all steps and even load holders.

You will find size tolerances are not tight, however too tight or large a 'negative' will load poorly or not at all. Too small and one side may fall out.

Take your time, sit down and everything you learn using paper, will make red LED cutting easier and then one day you will be cutting 'real' film in full dark, which is easy if you have practiced.

I cut 8x10 Ektascan and FP4+ as small as 6x6mm for Hasselblad single side holders. That does take precise cutting.

Just begin the adventure. :)

Quote:

---

Is that because of the tanning developer?

---

I thought so at first, but I also develop in very dilute Xtol, and D-19.

I cut it with a guillotine cutter because I can borrow one from work occasionally. I use a small block of maple and a c clamp to make a stopper. I have a piece of cardboard or card stock the size of a 5x7 film which I use to position the stop block. I cut the (approx) 1"x10" strip off first for a bunch of sheets then reposition the stop for the 5" cut. Takes three cuts to make two sheets. More/less same for 4x5. This cutter is nothing like so nice as a rotatrim master cut with the rotary cutter, but I find that one sheet at a time making sure to mildly force the cutter against the base makes good cuts. Working under safelights helps a lot. I don't know that I would want to use a guillotine cutter in the dark.

Attachment 140830
The light lines are light leaks from my holder. Vageeswari 10x12, Ross 3A portrait lens at F22 1/10 sec, green xray film

Alex, it looks like you are using hangers. In my experience, very gentle agitation was the key, especially with xray. Even with a dilute developer, gentle agitation. I don't even pull the hangers out of the developer.

There are a couple of types of hangers. I bet yours aren't Kodak. Kodak tracks have a V-shape to them that prevents the metal from touching film. Other brands are a square U shape, with sidewalls that can stick to the film and mess up developing around the edges. That's the funny marks I see on the left sky edge on the photo of the prop plane.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mdarnton

I use a rotary cutter. I have put tape "fences" on the cutter board to size the film in each dimension, so it's very fast. I don't notch, but if I did I'd use a circular hole punch, since I already have one for marking the 35mm frames I want to print. If you don't have a good safelight for this, let me tell you, cutting under a safelight, loading holders, and developing is a LOT easier under a safelight than it is doing those things in the dark!!!

---

I do exactly the same thing. It pretty important to get the short edge cut right. The film width is not so important but the length is. Just a millimeter off and the sheet’s edge will overlap the plastic stops at the bottom of the holder.

About notches, my film has rounded corners. I just use the round corner after cutting into four sub-sheets as a "notch".

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by towolf

I do exactly the same thing. It pretty important to get the short edge cut right. The film width is not so important but the length is. Just a millimeter off and the sheet’s edge will overlap the plastic stops at the bottom of the holder.

About notches, my film has rounded corners. I just use the round corner after cutting into four sub-sheets as a "notch".

---

Me too.
I use Dyno label tape, 2 pieces on top of each other give enough feel to use as a guide.
I have a cheap rotary cutter marked out for 4x5 and 3 1/4 x 4 1/4.
I just ordered a box of that Carestream 8x10 B/RA film to give it a go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by towolf

About notches, my film has rounded corners. I just use the round corner after cutting into four sub-sheets as a "notch".

---

Wouldn't it be in opposite corners for 2 of the sheets, thus not helpful in determining which is the emulsion side?

When using single sided film such as ektascan br/a, yes. With double sided film, this is not an issue of course.