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Interesting, when you order it, does it still give you the options in the drop down?Quote:
Originally Posted by trundrumbalind
Generally, Green is 400, Blue is 200, half speed is half of whatever type so half blue so 100.
I THOUGHT all ektascan was only 100 so not sure the website is correct ? Hmmmm ok who knows more?
Ektascan is not regular X-Ray film at all. It is designed for CRT video screen capture, it is never used for actual X-Ray like the double sided stuff.
I imagine Ektascan will not be around much longer as imaging CRT's is fast becoming even more obsolete than analog X-Ray.
Other companies do make CRT video capture film, but it is difficult to find any good info on it. Somebody needs to buy samples and test it.
I use Ektascan and am very happy with it.
wow, how did you developed this in a rotary tube? didn't you get scratches and uneven developmpent on the side facing the tube?? Or is there something I'm missing about Kodak G X-Ray?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeiR
First two sheets of Ektascan developed. Both exposed at EI 100, and companion images on FP4+ at same exposure for comparison.
1st sheet in tray with HC110 1+63 for 6 minutes almost constant agitation+ 2 minutes standing in water. Shadows are under-exposed, although FP4 is not. Contrast a little strong even for salt prints.
2nd sheet #12 filter to separate clouds EI 100 plus allowance for filter. in tray with HC110 , 1+100 for 12 minutes, limited agitation (5 seconds each 30 seconds), + 2 minutes standing in water. Contrast better, but of course shadows still under-exposed. sky and clouds look good.
Not unreasonable for 1st tests of this film. I'll get where I want to be soon.
I will probably move to D-23 + water bath, and Pyrocat HD for next tests in my search for the EI /developer combination which best suits my work.
An aside - the FP4+ negatives look very good with a nice long scale.
Some will ask to see images, but I stopped putting images anywhere on the web because of theft and use for profit. That is why I no longer have a web site or blog.
1982 state of the art CRT X-ray recording.
I'm not paying for this article? Will someone?
http://proceedings.spiedigitallibrar...icleid=1232641
and this 4x4"!
http://www.cmxmedicalimaging.com/sam...ved-10-x-10cm/
Depends on the tube, I've used a Cibichrome tube and that worked ok, also you can strip the "back side" and remove the scratches by doing that.Quote:
Originally Posted by trundrumbalind
I been working with X ray in rotary tubes since day i started using Xray about year and half ago. Only two times i had actual issues - one time when i was stupid to develop it in Jobo tank for paper and then back emulsion was not developed. Other time when i was idiotic to drag film out of tube be the edge and scratched other sheet with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by trundrumbalind
if you use film tubes (like unicolor) or other contraptions (like core inserts) you actually got liquid go between sheet and sides. I never strip my film other side , b/c i hate doing it :) It just takes some practice and being careful, and then things working just fine. Sure, you might get scratch here and there on edges, but who cares (few mm out of 8x10 real estate won't hurt you). Its hell of the lot easier to develop for hour in rotary, than doing so next to the tank in dark room, and doing it "by inspection". I don't have dipping tanks though, they might be not bad solution either.
8x10 Kodak, CSG, 12 m rotary in adonal 1:170
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/...461d3e0b_c.jpgScan-140907-0002www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
Cool roots!
I've just confirmed the X-Ray is completely orthochromatic! This is exciting to discover, that it's almost fully so, not just a tiny bit... I'm going to try the normal green stuff to see how it reacts to the amber darkroom light.
I just ordered more of the ektascan, and that's when I realized it IS the green I ordered as it's the cheapest, so it's considered 400 yet I've had to shoot it at EI80 to get a good neg... Hmmm.
Stone, my experience with CSR green latitude is that it is only slightly orthochromatic, or better described as a week panchromatic. My first attempt at processing with a red bulb resulted in slight fogging. I had to move my safelight farther away.
With Fuji Green, I tried using first my normal orange/brown (OC?) light and it was total fog. Then I tried a red bulb I'd gotten from a photo supplier as a safelight, and that wasn't much better. Finally I just caved, and bought a real x-ray safelight on Ebay. I haven't tried the LED thing. I intend to try LEDs, and think you should try them first. . .The real safelight is very very dark, so I don't even bother to use it.