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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
To minimise the contrast? That's what i've been told. So far it does help or maybe i'm just hallucinating? :D
Look at these images..
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tender...57636179160823
No Yellow filter
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tender...57636179160823
With Yellow filter..
I think the Yellow filter slightly affects the X-Ray film? Look at the trees.. There is a noticeble difference with the two photos. What do you think? Maybe some people can confirm this? Those pictures was taken from the same place and almost the same time..
I see, interesting, thanks!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Try it! :) I will try Yellow Green next time. This film is very nice. Just proper handle and you'll get good result like normal Panchro films!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StoneNYC
I see, interesting, thanks!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5486/...efaa076d_c.jpg
Cemetery gate di Filippo Natali, su Flickr
5x7" albument print from Kodak T-Mat Xray film developed with Pyrocat-HDC
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I don't know if there are degrees of "orthocromatic-ism" but from my experience the green latitude film doesn't seem to be completely orthochromatic. I guess a good test would be to take a picture of a red object and see how it registers on the film. The tractor below is a rusty red color and pretty much looks in real life just as it looks after scanning the neg - no filtration used.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...62/img569a.jpg
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Randy, i'm very amazed with this Fuji HRT green latitude film. With a good light and yellow filter it seems to look like an IR film! The dynamic range is superb!
I just wish all green latitude film is like the HRT. I'm running out of my film! Hopefully i could find one here in Iran
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Randy
I don't know if there are degrees of "orthocromatic-ism" but from my experience the green latitude film doesn't seem to be completely orthochromatic. I guess a good test would be to take a picture of a red object and see how it registers on the film. The tractor below is a rusty red color and pretty much looks in real life just as it looks after scanning the neg - no filtration used.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...62/img569a.jpg
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Randy
I don't know if there are degrees of "orthocromatic-ism" but from my experience the green latitude film doesn't seem to be completely orthochromatic. I guess a good test would be to take a picture of a red object and see how it registers on the film. The tractor below is a rusty red color and pretty much looks in real life just as it looks after scanning the neg - no filtration used.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...62/img569a.jpg
Well, thank you for the info, I'm also thinking that perhaps because it is a red eight it is a mixture of other colors and it is a die and not the actual light itself? And maybe that the other colored dyes workmen in the actual paint are coming through? Anyway thanks for the info I will certainly tested out once I have a better system in place, right now I don't even have any 11x14 holders, i'm using a home made one but it doesn't function very well, and I can only load one image today because I have to load in darkness and I don't have a dark room, so if I actually can get my hands on some 11 x 14 film holders then I can do more images per day and have a better ability to test. Thanks.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
green hrt is what I used when shooting 8x10, great xray film, I don't even think I ever used a yellow filter with it
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I think I will do a test with three objects side by side, red, blue, green, under full sun and another under overcast sky's, just to get and idea of how the film records. Seems like I just never take the time these days to do simple tests...:(
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Good idea! Please keep us updated! I'm very curious with this since the images i made using Yellow filter with Green latitude film is a bit different from the one without. Maybe the light and the scene are a big factor? I hope someone could chime in and show their X-ray shots with filters!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Randy
I think I will do a test with three objects side by side, red, blue, green, under full sun and another under overcast sky's, just to get and idea of how the film records. Seems like I just never take the time these days to do simple tests...:(
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
Good idea! Please keep us updated! I'm very curious with this since the images i made using Yellow filter with Green latitude film is a bit different from the one without. Maybe the light and the scene are a big factor? I hope someone could chime in and show their X-ray shots with filters!
I'm going to try this with the ektascan, I've used AGFA green x-ray film and it's nice but I feel like because I'm using a drum to develop, it's better to use single side emulsions, and as far as I know the ektascan is the only x-ray film that's single sided?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I think there are few more X-ray film with single sided emulsion. I've been seeing these type lately. But it would be very expensive than the normal films? How much for 100sheets / 1 box ektascan? I wish all green latitude film from different manufacturers are all the same in quality. I'm running out of film so i need a new box soon but it would be hard for me to find Fuji films here in Iran.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StoneNYC
I'm going to try this with the ektascan, I've used AGFA green x-ray film and it's nice but I feel like because I'm using a drum to develop, it's better to use single side emulsions, and as far as I know the ektascan is the only x-ray film that's single sided?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
I'm running out of film so i need a new box soon but it would be hard for me to find Fuji films here in Iran.
i wonder if you can have a local hospital order it for you when they order?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
You really think that excessive contrast is a characteristic of orthochromatic film? Hmmm, ever look at the early work of Edward Weston, or Edourd Steichen, and hundreds of others? Excessive contrast comes from too much exposure, or too much development, or both. This used to be called "soot and whitewash". One of ortho's biggest advantages, from a use standpoint, is development by inspection. Under a ruby red light. If you use too powerful a developer, the neg will flash up so fast you can't control it. Dectol at 1 to 1,or 2 to 1, Rodinal at 25 or 50 to 1. When I use dectol, I use it at 25 to 1. Or Rodinal at 100 or 200 to 1. This takes 8 to 15 minutes to fully develop. I try to get it closer to just less than 10 minutes by strengthining the soup. Now filters. Ortho film is very, but not completely, blind to red light. It is extremely sensitive to ultra-violet, or in other words, skylight. When you use a 2X yellow filter, it holds back the u-v light in the sky, permitting a longer exposure. This allows cloud detail, and more shadow quality. Now I can't tell you which Wratten filters are which, because I use Burke & James "Ideal Ray Filters" If you can find them (on e-bay) they come in 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X. The last two are almost never seen, so if you can find a 2X and a 3X, you're in business. I suppose everyone knows (or, as a Russian friend of mine says "as every hedgehog knows") That the "X" tells you how many times to multiply the exposure. I've heard that a green filter will work too, but I don't know if it will because I've never had one. Now, I'm sure some of you are staring at this little epistle, and thinking, "Gee, if I would just step up to the pump and pay five or so times more for pan film, my troubles would be over". You think so, right? The answer is, if all you want to take is snapshots, yes. You really should use a light blue filter on pan film to darken the reds. They put an excessive amount of red dye in pan film because it gooses the speed way up there. In conclusion, use ortho film for it's superior qualities, and pan when you have too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
To minimise the contrast? That's what i've been told. So far it does help or maybe i'm just hallucinating? :D
Look at these images..
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tender...57636179160823
No Yellow filter
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tender...57636179160823
With Yellow filter..
I think the Yellow filter slightly affects the X-Ray film? Look at the trees.. There is a noticeble difference with the two photos. What do you think? Maybe some people can confirm this? Those pictures was taken from the same place and almost the same time..
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Very appealing film. Is this the high speed or medium speed HRT?
Thanks,
Jim
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Colour rendition test I did a few years ago with green latitude.
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2 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
... and a filter test (written filers). Letters represent colour of objects. O=orange; B=black; LR=light red, etc... sorry but cannot find unfiltered image. I also have reciprocity data.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
I think there are few more X-ray film with single sided emulsion. I've been seeing these type lately. But it would be very expensive than the normal films? How much for 100sheets / 1 box ektascan? I wish all green latitude film from different manufacturers are all the same in quality. I'm running out of film so i need a new box soon but it would be hard for me to find Fuji films here in Iran.
It's still cheaper than regular film, example
8x10 - Ilford FP4+/Delta100/HP5+ = $108 (25 sheets).
8x10 - Kodak Ektascan = $80 (100 sheets).
That's over 4 times as cheap.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
premortho
You really think that excessive contrast is a characteristic of orthochromatic film? Hmmm, ever look at the early work of Edward Weston, or Edourd Steichen, and hundreds of others? Excessive contrast comes from too much exposure, or too much development, or both. This used to be called "soot and whitewash". One of ortho's biggest advantages, from a use standpoint, is development by inspection. Under a ruby red light. If you use too powerful a developer, the neg will flash up so fast you can't control it. Dectol at 1 to 1,or 2 to 1, Rodinal at 25 or 50 to 1. When I use dectol, I use it at 25 to 1. Or Rodinal at 100 or 200 to 1. This takes 8 to 15 minutes to fully develop. I try to get it closer to just less than 10 minutes by strengthining the soup. Now filters. Ortho film is very, but not completely, blind to red light. It is extremely sensitive to ultra-violet, or in other words, skylight. When you use a 2X yellow filter, it holds back the u-v light in the sky, permitting a longer exposure. This allows cloud detail, and more shadow quality. Now I can't tell you which Wratten filters are which, because I use Burke & James "Ideal Ray Filters" If you can find them (on e-bay) they come in 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X. The last two are almost never seen, so if you can find a 2X and a 3X, you're in business. I suppose everyone knows (or, as a Russian friend of mine says "as every hedgehog knows") That the "X" tells you how many times to multiply the exposure. I've heard that a green filter will work too, but I don't know if it will because I've never had one. Now, I'm sure some of you are staring at this little epistle, and thinking, "Gee, if I would just step up to the pump and pay five or so times more for pan film, my troubles would be over". You think so, right? The answer is, if all you want to take is snapshots, yes. You really should use a light blue filter on pan film to darken the reds. They put an excessive amount of red dye in pan film because it gooses the speed way up there. In conclusion, use ortho film for it's superior qualities, and pan when you have too.
You forgot one other advantage, the one which has always kept ortho film loaded into a few of my holders - it does a great job opening up the shadows.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I will have to try. My inlaws run a hospital here but they're not using X-ray film anymore. They're more into digital side now..
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Randy
i wonder if you can have a local hospital order it for you when they order?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Wow! Not bad. How's the quality of this film?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StoneNYC
It's still cheaper than regular film, example
8x10 - Ilford FP4+/Delta100/HP5+ = $108 (25 sheets).
8x10 - Kodak Ektascan = $80 (100 sheets).
That's over 4 times as cheap.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Thanks for the info! I'm loving this film. It seems like i will never use a panchromatic film for 8x10 (I'm broke). I'm really happy with the results i'm getting with X-ray film. I just need to be more careful every time i process my film.. I'm using Y2 filter. I just love how it renders the green to the film. Since my place have massive mountains, trees and great light i think the yellow fits what i like. Maybe i could try light green or other filters someday. I'll check those filters you mentioned.
By the way, i'm using ID-11 (1+3) to process all my films here. I just hope i could still find this developer in Tehran. If not i would probably brew my own developer. If ever i could find chemical supplier in Tehran i would probably make Parodinal. I've tested this developer before and it's also nice and economical than using ID-11. I usually process my X-ray film from 7-9 mins @ 20c-22c and agitate slowly every 15secs. Sometimes i agitate the film abruptly if i can't see proper contrast on my negative. Is this a good start? Is pre-mature development fine with X-ray/Ortho films? Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
premortho
You really think that excessive contrast is a characteristic of orthochromatic film? Hmmm, ever look at the early work of Edward Weston, or Edourd Steichen, and hundreds of others? Excessive contrast comes from too much exposure, or too much development, or both. This used to be called "soot and whitewash". One of ortho's biggest advantages, from a use standpoint, is development by inspection. Under a ruby red light. If you use too powerful a developer, the neg will flash up so fast you can't control it. Dectol at 1 to 1,or 2 to 1, Rodinal at 25 or 50 to 1. When I use dectol, I use it at 25 to 1. Or Rodinal at 100 or 200 to 1. This takes 8 to 15 minutes to fully develop. I try to get it closer to just less than 10 minutes by strengthining the soup. Now filters. Ortho film is very, but not completely, blind to red light. It is extremely sensitive to ultra-violet, or in other words, skylight. When you use a 2X yellow filter, it holds back the u-v light in the sky, permitting a longer exposure. This allows cloud detail, and more shadow quality. Now I can't tell you which Wratten filters are which, because I use Burke & James "Ideal Ray Filters" If you can find them (on e-bay) they come in 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X. The last two are almost never seen, so if you can find a 2X and a 3X, you're in business. I suppose everyone knows (or, as a Russian friend of mine says "as every hedgehog knows") That the "X" tells you how many times to multiply the exposure. I've heard that a green filter will work too, but I don't know if it will because I've never had one. Now, I'm sure some of you are staring at this little epistle, and thinking, "Gee, if I would just step up to the pump and pay five or so times more for pan film, my troubles would be over". You think so, right? The answer is, if all you want to take is snapshots, yes. You really should use a light blue filter on pan film to darken the reds. They put an excessive amount of red dye in pan film because it gooses the speed way up there. In conclusion, use ortho film for it's superior qualities, and pan when you have too.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
Wow! Not bad. How's the quality of this film?
I don't know I haven't used it yet but the people posting here seem to like it, it's more expensive than other x-ray films (which generally a 100 pack or 8x10 can be had for $30 but having the emulsion on only one side is a big plus for my workflow.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I noticed your comment about Parodinal. It is just paracetamol capsules and sodium hydroxide, so I'm sure you would have no trouble sourcing these. My experimental batch behave identically to Rodinal. If you wish,I can PM you a link to the mixing procedure.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Please Ian! Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ian Gordon Bilson
I noticed your comment about Parodinal. It is just paracetamol capsules and sodium hydroxide, so I'm sure you would have no trouble sourcing these. My experimental batch behave identically to Rodinal. If you wish,I can PM you a link to the mixing procedure.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Hey, Andrew, thanks for showing us the results of your test. For me, I much prefer the yellow filter. But I'm sure there are times when the scene would be better with the green one. But I think it's for sure that one needs two yellows, a medium, and one 1 or 2 stops darker. I've been shooting ortho film for just less than 70 years, because I like the control you can have with it by filtration. I don't cry myself to sleep because the best ortho film I've ever used is no longer available (Ansco Super Plenachrome). I just make do with what I can get, and think I'm blessed that there are still so many varieties still available. There are many steps in orthochromaticism, from barely to almost as good as Plenachrome. Have you guys noticed how fine the grain is on ortho film? A lot of people like grain in their pictures. As for me, if I wanted grain, I'd shoot 35 mm and blow it up to 11X14. I believe that green X-ray film is more orthochromatic than blue X-ray film. And blue X-ray film is more orthochromatic than Arista edu-ortho II. So pick a film for the amount of tone control the situation calls for, and shoot it. And don't forget that multi-grade paper is orthochromatic also. Too slow? So what, you are using a tripod, aren't you. Why do you think they are still making Packard Shutters (and selling them!). So, you have a variety of choices from ASA 3 all the way up to over 100. What more could you want?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Andrew O'Neill
... and a filter test (written filers). Letters represent colour of objects. O=orange; B=black; LR=light red, etc... sorry but cannot find unfiltered image. I also have reciprocity data.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
This with 8x10 Ektascan, Nikkor 250. Didn't get the exposure right, but still -- jiggered it in P.S.
There is no way this could be printed on silver-gel.
I'll try again some time soon.
Buttermilk Falls in Delaware Water Gap N.P.
Attachment 117200
George
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gbogatko
This with 8x10 Ektascan, Nikkor 250. Didn't get the exposure right, but still -- jiggered it in P.S.
There is no way this could be printed on silver-gel.
I'll try again some time soon.
Buttermilk Falls in Delaware Water Gap N.P.
Attachment 117200
George
Well looks good as a scan!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
George it would make a nice carbon print!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Jim Fitzgerald
George it would make a nice carbon print!
If I knew how to do that, I'd try.
But seriously, the density is just off the map. I took a LOT of jiggering to get the water to look half-way decent.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
George,
Your image of Buttermilk Falls is a good one, and it deserves a chance to be printed. As an experiment, you might take the positive image you made in PS, invert it into a negative, print that on your ink jet printer as a color negative (which would use translucent inks) onto clear overhead projector material, and then make a contact print.
However, I am having a senior moment and cannot remember the name of the brand of overhead projector material that would work for this method.
Keith
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Pictorico... but there are other brands that are similar, if not the same, such as Silkjet.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Andrew,
Thanks for providing the brand names "Pictorico" and "Silkjet" that I could not remember!
Keith
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Hey, Andrew, thanks for showing us the results of your test.
You are very welcome, premortho. Pretty impressive that you have been using ortho films for that long!
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2 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Shot some X-Ray pinhole at an APUG meetup in CT :) finally met some of the guys in real life which was cool.
Attachment 117267
Attachment 117268
Will scan it tomorrow, looks like my pinhole has some light leak (or the holder does) but the person I got the 11x14 holder from said it was their best holder and it's in excellent shape so I can't believe it would be the holder. Hey at least there is an image... Lol
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Keith Fleming
George,
Your image of Buttermilk Falls is a good one, and it deserves a chance to be printed. As an experiment, you might take the positive image you made in PS, invert it into a negative, print that on your ink jet printer as a color negative (which would use translucent inks) onto clear overhead projector material, and then make a contact print.
However, I am having a senior moment and cannot remember the name of the brand of overhead projector material that would work for this method.
Keith
Yes. Pictorico. I've tried this before, and it does work. However, my 2200 gave up the ghost a while back and I havn't replaced it yet.
Saving up the pennies for a 3880 (which will allow me to print out color photos).
George
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gbogatko
If I knew how to do that, I'd try.
But seriously, the density is just off the map. I took a LOT of jiggering to get the water to look half-way decent.
Jim has some excellent vids on youtube about the process, check them out.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Thanks very much to everyone who contributed to this thread. I spent about a week reading both threads start to finish. Great work and lots of great images. While I was reading I dusted off my Deardorff, ordered some Ektascan B/RA, and took my first x-ray shot. I'm trying to post it here for you to see, but I'm not sure if I know how to link it in.
I rated my Ektascan at 100, and developed in a Beseler drum on a motor base. Rodinal 1:50, 9 minutes. This neg is fairly dense, and might be nice for Cyanotype which is my usual printing method for 8x10.
Nope. I can't link in a photo from my flickr. I'll attach the little one below. (And go back and read the thread again because I know there were some flickr instructions in this very thread.)
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/...98c78da3_z.jpgskull by jimmy.patrick, on Flickr
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Hi Stone,
That was fast work. Very nice meeting you as well. :)
Carl
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StoneNYC
Shot some X-Ray pinhole at an APUG meetup in CT :) finally met some of the guys in real life which was cool.
Attachment 117267
Attachment 117268
Will scan it tomorrow, looks like my pinhole has some light leak (or the holder does) but the person I got the 11x14 holder from said it was their best holder and it's in excellent shape so I can't believe it would be the holder. Hey at least there is an image... Lol
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3898/...9993eb3f_b.jpg
Testing another workflow from my scanner.. I'm amazed with this picture. Only curves and brightness contrast here. No HDR software whatsoever!
I'm loving this film!
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji Fujinon 250mm 6.7 + Fuji HRT X-Ray Film + Yellow Filter
DANG !! Now THAT's! what I'm talking about - very, very nice man. Don't change a thing with whatever your process is - you cracked the code.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tenderobject
Testing another workflow from my scanner.. I'm amazed with this picture. Only curves and brightness contrast here. No HDR software whatsoever!
I'm loving this film!
Kodak Master View 8x10 + Fuji Fujinon 250mm 6.7 + Fuji HRT X-Ray Film + Yellow Filter
Good job! What developer/dilution/time did you use, and ASA?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Posted over t'portraits, too. 8x10 Ektascan BR/A in Adanol 1:150 (7:20 at 20C).
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2911/...1cbf7a63_c.jpgMiddies by Scott --, on Flickr
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Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Scott --
Really? 7 minutes at 1:150?? Is this EI 100?
When I develop the AGFA green x-ray I use 1:50 at 7 minutes in rotary... Seems odd to have the same time with such a dilution difference. Hmmm I mean it's a different emulsion but still...
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StoneNYC
Really? 7 minutes at 1:150?? Is this EI 100?
When I develop the AGFA green x-ray I use 1:50 at 7 minutes in rotary... Seems odd to have the same time with such a dilution difference. Hmmm I mean it's a different emulsion but still...
Yep - 7:00 with 1:150. Shot at EI100. Rotary. Been tweaking developing a bit but still in the ballpark.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Scott --
Yep - 7:00 with 1:150. Shot at EI100. Rotary. Been tweaking developing a bit but still in the ballpark.
Well 8x10 ektascan arrives Tuesday so I'll give it a go and see.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Attachment 118040
8X10 Kodak Green, Developed in D-23 and scanned. I rated this at 100 ISO and developed by inspection. Shot with a 2D from 1934 with an Ilex Caltar 254mm lens. It looks to me as if there is a stronger silver image on the side of the film that faced the lens, the dull silver surface much more evident. This was a surprise.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gbogatko
If I knew how to do that, I'd try.
But seriously, the density is just off the map. I took a LOT of jiggering to get the water to look half-way decent.
I teach carbon printing and this image is right for carbon. The area of highlight is small and the shadow areas are rich. I can see the print. With carbon you can control the highlights. No digital tweaking needed. :-)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Hi Corran, Thanks! ID-11 1+3 EI 100 at 8-9 minutes developing time :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Corran
Good job! What developer/dilution/time did you use, and ASA?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Thanks! I'm still trying to get the best out of X-ray film! I'm loving this film so much i might not use Panchro film anymore. :D
I really need to fix my scanning workflow! hahah
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jbrianfoto
DANG !! Now THAT's! what I'm talking about - very, very nice man. Don't change a thing with whatever your process is - you cracked the code.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Scott --
Also a fantastic capture, I will do some shooting this weekend, ya'll have inspired me.