Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

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Originally Posted by koraks

I'm looking forward to seeing the final outcome; an interesting experiment for sure!

I think the stack shuffle approach won't work reliably with xray film, particularly the double sided film. It's too delicate and I fear that scratches are inevitable. The double sided nature (assuming you used this) could also account for the imprint of one negative on another due to local developer exhaustion - although that should leave a negative impression of one negative on another.

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EB/RA is single sided, so any double-sided emulsion issues wouldn't be applicable here. To more accurately describe the issue: outlines of the edges of the negatives above appear on each negative, so you see corners and rectangular imprints. No image is transferred because there is no safelight on. I developed in the pitch black. All emulsion was facing upwards, as Ansel recommends. I'm really not sure how I'm screwing this up when I'm following his instructions carefully from "The Negative".

I've had this problem before, and it was part of what made me start dong rotary development with X-ray in a Jobo tank instead. That being said, I've also experienced issues with blotchy development in the Jobo tank too. X-ray can be quite finicky in development.

I'm sorry, I missed the bit where you specified the film.

I've had issues similar to what you describe, but these were due to an unsafe safelight. Fixing that made this issue go away for me. I've also not experienced any uneven development in the jobo, but this is with double sided film cut back tot 4x5 and developed on a 2509 reel and the jobo (cpe2) set to its slow rotation speed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by koraks

I'm sorry, I missed the bit where you specified the film.

I've had issues similar to what you describe, but these were due to an unsafe safelight. Fixing that made this issue go away for me. I've also not experienced any uneven development in the jobo, but this is with double sided film cut back tot 4x5 and developed on a 2509 reel and the jobo (cpe2) set to its slow rotation speed.

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Y'see I don't have a Jobo machine, I've only got the tank. I'm wondering if my rotor machine is just not spinning it evenly. I have to prop up the tank in just the right way for it to not fall off. I'm thinking that this might be the case.

I happened to win the bid on a CPA2, so we'll see soon enough whether it is the case. Can't wait to finally home dev.

I took more 4x5 UV today. Pictures of a family member who volunteered. Eager to see how it comes out. The best thing about the Canham DLC is that the rail is metered. Noted each bellows extension tested, so I can narrow it down next time.

First X-Ray play, getting ready for civil war re-enactments

Carestream Clinicselect Half Speed Blue per pkg. 20.3 x 25.4cm
Trimmed to 200 by 250mm before quartering with rotary paper cutter
Shot at mid day in open shade, Graflex Super D, Gundlach Petzval (9" I think), Grafmatic holder,F5.6,
Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 Jobo processor with reels for 6 minutes after 5 minute pre soack @70F
Used latex glove when handling wet negatives (no other time). I got in a hurry so there is a water drop on one of them.
Cut film, loaded Grafmatic, and Jobo Reel with this flashlight (high setting) directed into a corner of the walk in closet affixed to the rail with mount below:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Scanned on Epson V750 with Silverlight in stock negative holder
Downsized in PS via Bicubic for Reduction

First image, eyes camera right
25 ISO (1/30th sec)
Scanner: exposure adjustment nil
Mid Tone: +22
Contrast: -34

Second image, eyes camera left
25 ISO (1/60th) (Therefore ISO 50)
Scanner: exposure +1.5
Mid Tone +33 (max)
Contrast: -50 (min)

A third exposure at 1/125 (ISO 100) was not salvageable.

I'd appreciate similar information on the full speed blue!

I'll be working with full speed green I bought when I have a chance.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by alanbutler57

First X-Ray play, getting ready for civil war re-enactments

Carestream Clinicselect Half Speed Blue per pkg. 20.3 x 25.4cm
Trimmed to 200 by 250mm before quartering with rotary paper cutter
Shot at mid day in open shade, Graflex Super D, Gundlach Petzval (9" I think), Grafmatic holder,F5.6,
Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 Jobo processor with reels for 6 minutes after 5 minute pre soack @70F
Used latex glove when handling wet negatives (no other time). I got in a hurry so there is a water drop on one of them.
Cut film, loaded Grafmatic, and Jobo Reel with this flashlight (high setting) directed into a corner of the walk in closet affixed to the rail with mount below:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Scanned on Epson V750 with Silverlight in stock negative holder
Downsized in PS via Bicubic for Reduction

First image, eyes camera right
25 ISO (1/30th sec)
Scanner: exposure adjustment nil
Mid Tone: +22
Contrast: -34

Second image, eyes camera left
25 ISO (1/60th) (Therefore ISO 50)
Scanner: exposure +1.5
Mid Tone +33 (max)
Contrast: -50 (min)

A third exposure at 1/125 (ISO 100) was not salvageable.

I'd appreciate similar information on the full speed blue!

I'll be working with full speed green I bought when I have a chance.

Thanks

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Thanks, Alan. This confirms my metering with the same film, shot under Paul C. Buff Einsteins with a nominal 5600K (±50K) color at ~1/25th second. I get about a stop more speed from Carestream (Kodak) Ektascan. I used a Sekonic L‑308S in flash mode to arrive at this exposure.

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Originally Posted by Fr. Mark

That's really neat looking.

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Thanks.
It was my first attempt to do 1:1 macro with 8x10" (18x24cm).
There is a learning curve, that I'm just starting to climb.
When shooting landscapes, adding some tilt (refocus-repeat), is pretty much all I need.
Rather intuitive.
Managing depth of field on 3D objects on 1:1 scale of reproduction seems to be more math than anything else.
Will get there, hopefully.

It was also the first try out of my new daylight "studio". A tiny space that I converted for macro/portrait work. Had never used one, and I'm quite pleased with the quality of light I'm getting.
Here is the setup, and how the negative looked in the washer (low quality cell phone pics shot for instagram):

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2826/3...75c24041_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2948/3...9fa2424a_b.jpg

A green full speed shot with Speed Graphic in full sun, rated 100 ISO, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 12 min @70 jobo, vignetted with Topaz B&W plug in, second also toned with Topaz (scanned as rgb image with Epson V750).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2838/3...cb35c843_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3844/3...c5aff39c_b.jpg

Attachment 163691
Attachment 163692

Here's the UV, with whatever the hell the dev issue I'm having is.

UV? Do explain. You may want to try developing one sheet alone to see if that eliminates the issue.

Fascinating effect, those uv exposures. Some experimentation may lead to usable results.

The development issue looks like insufficient and uneven agitation to me. How do you develop the film? In any case, try a more vigorous agitation and if this film is double sided, make sure that both sides receive a constant supply of fresh developer.