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I'm also curious if it's double sided film like the box I bought. I've tried the chlorine bleach trick to remove the back side image, but it's a lot of trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
If this is double sided, is this with both images intact? Or do you remove the one not facing the lens?
Hi Micheal,Randy
I process them with normal ridge tray, flip the neg during processing is recommended . Both emulsions are intact.
Have you made any contact prints from them with both emulsions still on?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tri Tran
The chlorine bleach trick works pretty well, frankly, but it is an awful lot of trouble. If both images are in reasonable focus, then it is merely a density building mechanism. But I've only shot 4 sheets of the film so far.
What I found is that in my drums I have to be very careful pulling the film out, since the emulsion facing the outer wall is easy to scratch. Not an issue if you're removing it anyway, but that's more work than developing the film.
Michael, no bleach, no drums. Simplify your life. Tray, D-76, red safe light on and develop for 6 minutes or so till done. Develop by inspection. Simple.
So since development is under a red safe light, then I assume all handling of film can be done in the same conditions?
I cut down the film under a faint red safe light.
I try to keep the red light to a minimum when developing -- film does seem to gain some sensitivity when first in the developer -- I stand so my shadow is over the dev tray for the first half or so of the dev time.
The developer I use is fairly cheap, so I use a good amount in a ribbed tray -- the film never touches the bottom.
Vaughn
There is also available an x-ray safelight filter that fits the Kodak bullet safelights.
juan
I just read this entire thread...and ordered a pack of the blue film in 8x10 :D. Fantastic info here guys...many thanks to everyone who contributed!
At $.25 a sheet if you mess up it doesn't cost you much. I think it is a great way to learn.
where is the best place to get x-ray film?
CSX online.com. Just google them. You can use their csx brand. I buy their green sensitive and shoot it at ISO 80.
Maybe i'm just missing something, but when I google them I get only Acura csx results. When I google csx xray film all I get is threads here and on APUG. Any help?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald
Yeah it took me a little googling, my first attempt yielded lots of results for rail freight.Quote:
Originally Posted by deadpan
http://www.cxsonline.com/text/subcat...&location=1001
Think Jim just wants us to work a little.
Roger
Thanks,
as soon as I arrived at the site, I remembered I had already stumbled upon it a while ago...and then subsequently ruled it out, as i'm based in the UK :(
"Most items ship out of Omaha, Nebraska, USA.
We only ship to the US and Canada."
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtbadman
http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/i/instr...ion/x-ray-film
A number of x-ray film distributors in UK, even listed by region. Just ignore the little survey and scroll towards the bottom of the page.
RW
I'm going to have to order some 11X14, I'm working each day on my 11X14 View camera even though I don't have a regular holder, only two glass plate holders which have the same outside dimensions. I'm going to have to make regular film holders.
The camera is going to be made using the hardware, where appropriate, from a Kodak 2D model. It's not my last 11X14, I plan on making a true flat bed design, but in the mean time I'm getting this done. I've got the back frame, bases, front uprights made and the rest won't present any problems. I have the bellows material from Porters, they don't carry it now, I'm making a bellows for it. I have the gg and springs so it's an assembly project. Since there isn't a rack and pinion to be made it save a lot of time.
When I make a publicly presentable model out of fine hard wood and hand made hardware with a bellows from Camera Bellows UK, I'll show pictures. I'm making a 5X7 and an 11X14 after this one is done. I got luck and have springs, glass, and a Canham new bellows for the 5X7. It's going to be a "Wista" type clam shell, flatbed model made of some 30 year old Honduras Mahogany I have in two nice planks.
I'll have to start practicing with the X-Ray film I got from CS in 8X10 while I finish the 11X14. I'm planing to use my RD Artar 19", I have two of them, one in a shutter and one in a barrel. I have a 14" Kodak Commercial Ektar in a shutter too that would work, I have others but haven't decided or checked to see which might work. Jim beat me out of a nice lens on eBay a while back, I was distracted away and he got it for next to nothing. It's a good thing, I didn't know that he was bidding and to bid hard on something with someone you know and like would be really bad. I hope that lens works out for you Jim, I forgot to ask if you have used it yet.
It's so cold in the shop right now that I figure out what step is next, plan it out and go and do it then get out of there. It's amazing how cold a table saw or shaper top can get. Also I bring the wood in at night so the moisture content doesn't change radically. That's woodworking, the first camera I made was in an apartment. It is a cherry and brass "Wista" type 4X5. The bellows is still light tight after decades of disuse. The first one is the most difficult, but now I have a shop so it's easier to work, except in the cold when I'm too lazy to fire up the pellet stove.
Jim, that BIG camera turned out very, very nice, what a joy to look at and use. I can't make it to Joshua Tree unfortunately but someday I'll see it in person I hope. You never know what will happen.
Curt
I am amazed that this little old thread I started years ago is still going strong.
http://www.asomerville.ltd.uk/xray-film_1.html
shipping 7 pounds in the mainland u.k
Yup. It's all your fault Gene! Thanks for starting this thread and getting me as well as others hooked on xray film.
My pleasure, and its about time I get fired up with it again. I have found that "some" X-ray film sizes are not "exactly" like comparable sheet film sizes, hence can be a tight fit into traditional sheet film holders. 7x17 comes to mind. It is cut a wee bit bigger and tends to buckle in the holder. Very frustrating, since it needs to be shaved down, and any excessive handling can bring scratches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Gene, sorry to hear that but it is good to know.
i just found a chinese site that has 8x10 for .17 a sheet...
minimum order 5000 sq.mtr!!!!
Finally got a chance to develop my blue x-ray film this past weekend... I cut it up for use in my 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 baby Speed Graphic (got 5 sheets per 8x10 :)). I developed it in a Yankee tank that I've had good luck developing 4x5s in. I used divided D-76 (Photographers Formulary recipe) for 5 minutes in each bath. Results were ok, but the grain seemed like it was unusually big/heavy--to the point it really affected the ability of it to resolve detail. That might be fine in an 8x10 neg, but it's a problem in a format this size... Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem? I've been developing TMax in this DD-76, and the results have been great. Do I need to try another developer?
Cheers,
Scott
And 14x17 can not just be cut in half for two 7x17's -- slightly small. At least for Agfa X-ray and the 7x17 holder I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene McCluney
For any Canadian shooters (Especially those in BC's lower mainland) there is a dealer in North Vancouver that sells Kodak and Agfa X-Ray film. It seems more expensive than the US counterparts, but they have a storefront, so you can drop by and try it out: http://www.canadianxraysupplies.com/xray-film.php
Does anyone here have experience with Kodak Min-R EV or Kodak Min-R S Mammography Xray film?
Graham, thanks for that!
can you use other developers other than xtol? I have sprint developer,diafine,and hc110
gth
NO
But mammography film is supposedly single side emulsion
Sizes seem to be limited
And more costly
If it's cheap to you, please try it and report
-
camerabrain
Like I said- use what you have- HC110 would seem like a pretty sure bet.
Yes. I've developed xray film (green latitude) in pyrocat-hd, rodinol, D-76, and D-19. All diluted more than normal, especially D-19. I'm using this film just for carbon transfer printing. You shouldn't have any problems in the developers that you have on hand... I've never used diafine, though.Quote:
can you use other developers other than xtol? I have sprint developer,diafine,and hc110
I've used D-76 with green sensitive xray film, it works just fine. Xray film is easily scratched, though, so handle with kid gloves, or perhaps baggies.
Do you have a link?Quote:
i just found a chinese site that has 8x10 for .17 a sheet...
Do anybody know any place to make orders about x-ray films here in Europe?
Two quick 8x10 self portraits I did with Fuji 100NIF Xray last night.
http://img.kpraslowicz.com/share/self-port-diafine.jpg
Exposed at 100ISO, developed in Diafine
http://img.kpraslowicz.com/share/self-port-hc110.jpg
Exposed at 100ISO, developed in HC-110
These look pretty good. There seems to be a number of types of 100 NIF emulsions.Quote:
Originally Posted by K. Praslowicz
Are any of these designations on the film? (No, I don't know what they mean, I just found them with Google.)
AX(Q-AX)
MG-SR(G-S)
C Type (Q-CT)
He-Ne Laser Image Film
LP-670T (QHN-670T)
Mammography Film
CM-H (Q-CMH)
http://www.zzmedical.com/zencart/8x1...ilm-p-384.html T2 Blue RX is what I'm using.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Batchelor
I have used the Fuji blue x ray film the higher speed stuff (Fuji RX Full Speed Blue Film)and shot it at 800 then developed it in Diafine with Saran wrap in the bottom of the trays to prevent scratches, with excellent results. I tried shooting it at 200 its supposed speed and developing with HC110 mixture B and it came out like crap. Too too dark. Has anyone tried this with Hc110 and got good results?
I've been getting good results with HC-100 in studio portraits. Dilution H at 68 degrees w rotary processing.Quote:
Originally Posted by camerabrain
Also, just to make sure, you aren't judging the negative density without stripping off the back layer of emulsion are you?Quote:
Originally Posted by camerabrain
I always found that B was too "hot" for [forTriX]
Dilute it more if you can't cut development time.
"its supposed speed"- is a starting point, not a standard
Strip or don't strip, but if it's not boiler plate [assuming "too dark" means a dense neg, not a print from a very thin neg] try a print to see what you really have
Hey K.P. very nice success
I've been mainly shooting High Speed Blue CXS.
HC-110b worked great for me in both tray, and rotary. Found Rodinal really easy to work using the times listed I think on page 1 of this discussion as well. Xtol and T-Max work good too. Heh. I think I mentioned Dektol working great too.
Doubt you'd find anything that doesn't work with this film so use what you usually use.
I have a newbie question about the X-ray film. I plan on using the half speed green film as my Betax no. 4 shutter is very slow.
This film is considered ortho, so can it be handled under red safelight conditions? Meaning, can it be loaded into the film holders under safelight or is it like a pan film that needs to be handled in total darkness?
I'm thinking that if it can be handled under red safelight, I might cut some 8X10 down to 5X7 and 4X5 and try it on my smaller camera backs.
Thanks for sharing your info, this thread has been very helpful.
Jose
Wooohooo, I just hit my 50th post and today (June 14th), is my 50th B-day. My brain still thinks I'm 13 years old, my body tells me another story. :D
Jose, yes, you can load, un-load in the red light. Just be careful doing so. I think a lot of people scratch the negative during this process. Also, be careful trying to cut this down for the same reasons.
So this thread was one that needed examples. Here is a recent shot. If you have been following this thread you already know what I shoot and how i develop. This is a carbon print.
I've been doing a few experiments with half speed blue film, and I've tried both stripping the emulsion off the back and leaving it on to increase density.Quote:
Originally Posted by K. Praslowicz
The biggest issue I have is that I scratch the back emulsion loading and unloading about 10% of the time.
But I haven't really done enough testing to know which I like better.
Does everyone here tend to strip the back emulsion? Or do some folks leave it in place?
Michael
Why do extra work ? Xray film has some defective sheets once in a while...scratch, unsual coated marks but is minimal. They sure are passed the quality control .
My negative most of them came out flawless, I kept the air compressor next to my film loading station to clean all the holders before loading the film. Through out the process please remember wash your trays, filter your developer ! More handling = more scratches with Xray film .
I agree with Tri on this. Also, the bigger you go as in 11x14 and 14x17 you have to be even more careful.
I'm currently loading mine in a far too small changing bag and rotary
Processing. The back layer tends to be unevenly developed and looks like a cat went after it, so I'm much forced to strip. Once I move into my new apartment, tray processing and non-bag loading will be an option so maybe I won't have to anymore.
$16,469Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicexplosion
96,875 sheets of film ...