Thanks Jim, Wellcome to Vietnam!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2786/5...e61127e3_z.jpg
One more from Berthiot Paris 300mm
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Thanks Jim, Wellcome to Vietnam!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2786/5...e61127e3_z.jpg
One more from Berthiot Paris 300mm
Very interesting. How are you printing these?Quote:
Originally Posted by yzfreedom
Mr Jim.
I just make a contact print on a cheap photographic paper to test. Exactly in Vietnam have not much of choice to do now. I going to do with another process next time-maybe-with better condition.
Time
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2474/5...82c3b379_z.jpg
Krauss 500mm
Hi guys. Great thread! I just purchased an 8x10 to toy with and the first thing I thought was to get some x-ray film to save some money.
Anyway, I had two questions:
1. I know the cheaper film with emulsions on both sides technically shouldn't work with BTZS tubes. However, would it work if I get some mesh or something to line the inside of the tube to lift up the film? I don't have a ton of space to do tray development.
2. I was interested in the "tri-color" process discussed in another thread where you use R, G and B filters on 3 separate b&w film shots and combine them in PS to make a color picture. Apparently you can take just 2 and a plain one and take the "difference" of those from the plain sheet. So...if you shot a green x-ray sheet, a blue one, and a normal shot of like Delta 100, could you make a color shot from those?
#1. I dont see how, this stuff is soft. If you figure out how let us know.
Both sides of xray film need to be developed. By placing mesh inside the tube will only screw up that side of the film. But you could always strip that side of the film with ammonia. If you are planning on alternative printing, I wouldn't recommend it as there would not be enough density range. Sorry but I have no experience with tri-colour printing. I do know that yellow, green, and blue filters work fine with xray film (I use cxsonline green latitude stuff). I feel confident though that what you propose would most likely work. It certainly would be cheaper than using three conventional sheets of film.
Thanks for the responses. So I didn't catch this earlier in the thread (well, it's 45 pages!) - I can just screw up the second emulsion all I want if I'm stripping it off anyway?? That makes things easier. I'm used to stripping Polaroids so I already have the process down.
Andrew, what effects do you get with those filters on that film?
I take it you will be scanning the film in to make your colour prints? If so, then strip away!
I'm planning on scanning but also contact printing (silver). I want to try alt processes sometime but I'll figure that out later.
Stripping the negative is fine for scanning and contact printing on silver papers. Did you have an alt process in mine?
I want to try everything :D
But pt/pd and carbon intrigues me. But I know nothing about them so I'm not worried about it right now.
Agreed. The emulsion is very soft when wet. I think a screen would leave marks. What might work, is the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim k
Make a tube out of bubble wrap that will fit inside your BTZS tube. If you can put the film inside the bubble wrap tube, and put the bubble wrap tube inside the BTZS tube, you might be able to avoid scratches, which mostly occur on removing the film from the tube. If the BW is too thick, there won't be room for the film, so you need small bubbles, but I think you do need bubbles, as they will keep the sleeve from collapsing during development, like a sock falling down, and they'll allow (theoretically) developer to get to both sides of the film. On the other hand, it might leave a bubble pattern on your film. No guarantees.
I've had best luck with a pane of glass in the bottom of a tray. I suppose a glass/ceramic cake/casserole pan would work, too.
If you're feeling very experimental, try the ziploc method. Put your film in a ziploc bag, pour in your developer, zip, and turn the bag over, end for end a few times every few minutes until your film is done. Pur out eh developer, rinse, fix, wash, all in the bag. This is tedious because the handling a bag full of liquid is awkward, and zipping/unzipping is kind of a pain, but it definitely works and won't scratch your film if you're careful removing it from the bag. Development has to be done in the dark, or under safe light. I've developed a lot of film this way, but it's always messy. What's needed is a lightproof, mylar zip-lock bag with a lightproof valve for pouring chems in and out. That would be a useful item.
I've been playing around with Kodak Latitude x-ray film for a few weeks now and I'm finally getting some results that I like. I've been shooting it at asa 100 utilizing a spot meter an the zone system. Development has been in small trays Rodinal 1:200 for six minutes then stripping the back side with bleach. (Developing info received from this site)
The high contrast has actually been a life saver a few times! The other day I was out shooting when it was really overcast and my subject was comparably flat. The Foma that I shot came out unprintable but the x-ray film had decent contrast and I got, almost, the exact image I was looking for! The only problems I'm having seem to be with the extreme ends of the range. I'm using a number 1 filter to print but I'm still having issues with shadows and highlights.
Any suggestions? More diluted developer? Longer or shorter development times? I extended the development by 20% and really didn't see much difference in the negative which leads me to believe that I need to drop my development time. I'm still fairly new to the dark room and really new to x-ray in general so any advice is appreciated. I've never gone off the map like this and with no hard documentation for this film I'm not sure where to go with my experimentation next.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
Jeremiah,
I've not worried about controlling contrast because my printing process likes a lot of contrast, but if I was, I'd try my low contrast developer. I formulated it for use with Lith film, but it should work with X-ray film, too. The developer is still a work in progress, but the following should work for X-Ray film:
TEA (triethanolamine) 75ml
Ascorbic acid 1g
Phenidone 7g
TEA to 100ml
Dilute 1:100
Develop test negative by inspection to determine development time.
If you're interested in trying this, PM me and I'll give you the basic instructions for mixing, etc. This stuff works really well with Lith film, and since it's so simple, it's easy to tune for any specific use, either by dilution, or by altering the ratio of phenidone to ascorbic acid. Keeping properties are generally very good, but depend somewhat on the way the concentrate is mixed and stored (it should be as dry as possible). The concentrate will last at least a year, under almost any conditions, and considerably longer if some basic precautions are taken. Good luck with your experimentation!
I'll admit a bit of trepidation when it comes to mixing my own developers. Not because I'm worried about messing it up but because I'm afraid of what it would lead to. You see, if I get involved in the chemistry of photography that deep, the next thing you know, I'll have maxed out my credit card at the chemical supply house, I'll have a spare bedroom full of chemicals and be taking courses at the university in chemistry. It will spiral out of control, my wife will leave me and take the cats.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeFehr
So you can see, the only good that can come out of this is me getting rid of the cats!
Understood! We should always err on the side of caution where impulsive/obsessive behavior is a risk. And you're probably in deep enough with LF X-Ray film!Quote:
Originally Posted by UberSquid
Out of curiosity though, where does one find such chemicals? I'm sure that they could be ordered online but I'm wondering about local supply. If I could find a local supply of raw chemicals then it would make sense to start mixing instead of ordering my packaged chemicals from the internet.
I've found the local co-op to be a great source for other projects but they assure me that they don't have Phenidone.
Hello slippery slope!;) I don't know where local is for you, but if you were in Seattle you could pick up some phenidone at Glazer's, and ascorbic acid at Madison Market, among many other places, I imagine. The TEA is the difficult one. I get mine from The Chemistry Store, by the gallon. You can get ascorbic acid there, too. I get most of my other chemicals from Artcraft Chemicals. Even with shipping, compounding your own chemicals can be far less expensive than buying commercial products, and you gain access to a world of formulas not commercially available, like the one posted above. Ok, enough preaching. Let me know if I can enable you...er.....help.
I live in Bloomington Indiana. It's a college town but for all intents and purposes it's a small rural town that likes to think it's not so no chemical supply depot here. Indianapolis is an hour away so I can drive up there to procure materials I just need a direction to go in. Since chemical photography isn't really mainstream anymore it's not like there are photo warehouses in major cities like there used to be. With other projects I've found the similar industries that use the components that I need such as getting Argon from a welding supply shop. I didn't know if there was anything similar in photo chemical supply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeFehr
Poke around the Chemistry Store a little and you'll see it's not really a photo chemical supply-- more like a soap and cosmetics supply-- but you can still get 2 of the three ingredients for my developer there, along with many others useful in compounding photo processing chemicals. If there's something similar in Indianapolis, you might give them a try, but you're not likely to find the phenidone. But 100g of phenidone will last a very long time, and costs little to ship.
Volunteering?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakotah Jackson
This shot taken at Soka University with Jim F.
Xray 14x17 E print :)
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5707/sokaq.jpg
Tri, that came out sweet! We need to go back to that place!
Yes we have to go back to this place , in the mean time I have to make an E print for a friend because the neg is a little weak for Carbon.It was fun that day though.
Since this was shot on green sensitive x-ray film I thought I'd post it here. I bought jim Galli's half an Edioscop a while ago knowing that I could produce something like this with it. I printed this in carbon and the print in real life glows very nicely. For me this is a wonderful match.
Actually, having just done my first developing, stripping, scanning, and soon contact printing of x-ray film, I'm considering doing a write-up and possibly a video to describe the process. The results so far: pretty stunning. I'm using 8x10 Fuji green-sensitive x-ray film and tried some different dilutions and times for Rodinal and finally got a really great, full-scale negative.
And here's a sneak-peek:
(Taken with Fuji Super HR-T with Nikon 300mm f/9 @ f/45 for 2 seconds and developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes)
http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/...5 (Custom).jpg
Taken with Fuji Super HR-T with Nikon 300mm f/9 @ f/45 for 2 seconds and developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes:
http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/...5 (Custom).jpg
I'm going to start using X-ray. I found you all need to strip one side of the emulsion after exposure. How to do it? Any one can help to detail explain the exact process of development of X-Ray film(green sensitive)?
I don't know, but there have been several post about it here on LFF. Use the search function. The image I posted has not been stripped. I don't see the need? I try to KISS!Quote:
Originally Posted by gchu1970
The image I posted though was stripped.
There are posts about it but the quick and dirty is, lay the sheet on a piece of glass, with whatever side you want to keep down touching the glass. Use painters tape to tape it securely with no gaps (I use extra on the rounded corners). Then brush bleach on lightly. I use a foam brush I bought for $1 at Lowes. I also use bleach watered down 1:1. Carefully wash. And you're done!
You might take a look at this thread. Someone probably discusses it there. I read it months ago but can't remember for sure. I know some do not bother striping one side, they just leave it. I purchased a box of the green sensitive a while back but have not done any experimenting myself. One of these days...?
This is a great image!Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
Thanks for all information here. I'm going to strat my test soon.
Thank you! I did do a contact print last night and I am quite happy with the finished product.
Click on Randy's link, then go to page 11.
How to strip - at least it works for me!!
One note, I'm now shooting at ISO 50 -- and then stripping.
"Smush" using a cheap 2 inch brush.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbogatko
AND if you happen to be ham-fisted like me, and
IF you can scratch the emulsion ONLY on one side, the scratches go away with the stripping, I asked and it was confirmed
Which Xray film (blue or green) for the most pleasing & natural skintones in portraits?
I've used green and I like the look.
Thanks to all your explanation. One more question, there are blue and green sensitive X-Ray films. Which is better in film photo, scenary and portrait?
Neither. They are both good. Same goes for architecture.
Do yourself a favor, Click on randy's link and read the whole thing. Start to finish.... "Preparation precedes confidence".... X-ray isn't "regular" film, the $$ you save will be spent in your time, skill and equipment needed (tanks, holders, etc)to use it effectively especially in larger formats.... unless you like it, or make use of it's unique charactaristics for carbon printing or gum or some other alternative process, you may find it all a waste of time & energy. It's no economic silver bullet and for most of us, will not replace a standard film like Ilford, etc... I'm in the middle of it now and having a blast... the fun part for me is worth it alone. Good luck.
Does anyone know if Dupont Cronex mrf-33 xray film is still available,and where i can get it? Also, who is a supplier Fuji Super hr-t xray film?
Frank.
Surely. I don't believe it will replace normal film. But maybe enjoying the process to get special effects. I've prepared for spending extra efforts now.Quote:
Originally Posted by imagedowser
csxsonline provides the Fuji HR-T film.
Here is an example of a portrait on HR-T green-sensitive film. Excuse the light leak. I'm also NOT a portrait photographer, this was done on a whim.
http://www.oceanstarproductions.com/...ring/0007s.jpg
Here are some portraits of my son's. All shot on Green sensitive x-ray film and printed in carbon transfer. One is natural light and the other is lit with my 2,000 watt Fresnel. Both of these were shot with my 14" Darlot.
Exactly, it's not a replacement, it's just another tool in the kit. Personally x-ray film has been a revelation for me. X-ray film allows me to take the photos that I want to take it certain situations. I still use regular film but I know now that when my visualization requires it I now have a new film at my disposal.Quote:
Originally Posted by imagedowser