Very good result, like that styleQuote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
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Very good result, like that styleQuote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
Thanks Bernhard, much appreciated
What was the effective speed of the film used to take the shot of the Ford flathead V8?
I usually use Rodinal myself, but I have run out at the moment. So I have had to use Fomadon LQN dil 1+10. Some say that is a clone of Ilfosol, but I don't know for sure.
The film I have been using is Foma Indux R4, which seems to be around 3 ASA in the Fomadon when developed for 10 min at 20C.
The Indux is double-sided, so no worry over whether I got the sheet emulsion side up in the holder.
I wonder whether one should meter from a grey card when using a film that is green or blue sensitive in case it is leading to under-exposure.
I started my experiments with Rodinal dil 1:100 for 10 min as it worked for some Crontex MRF-21.
Green and Blue sensitivity means nothing to us, that's for actual X-Ray conversion holders.
AFAIK all X-Ray we have used here is Red insensitive, meaning under safelight.
I think any photo film developer will work. I use Ilford PQ and Rodinol.
One thing I noticed about using X-ray film was that the speed, such as it was went off as the sun got lower. I assume it is because there is less blue light present.
In this shot of the hawthorn trees I had the lens wide-open at f5.8. You can see how the image is well soft at the edges, but it isn't as noticeable as I thought it'd be. Only one of my lenses is actually an anastigmat.
I don't have a duplicate shot taken on panchromatic film for comparison purposes i'm afraid. The dead white sky is typical of x-ray film, blue sky being rendered as white.
I shoot normally at iso 80, but some go as low as iso 25, it depends on individual work flow. skies can be tamed by using filters, I always use a yellow or orange filter which gives you a better cloud definition, if they are present. I used a yellow filter on the ford, I find unless I am shooting indoors it is always on my lens.
andrew: The x-ray films are not sensitive to the warm end of the spectrum. Just about as far as green, but no further. It means the usual filters for B&W film do not apply.
I have been using yellow and orange filters on xray for quite a while and they work fine, try for yourself. If you were to try red you would get a blank canvas. Yellows allows for nice cloud formations in your pics and more contrast, and orange gives you nastier dark clouds.
+1.
Used the ONDU 8x10 pinhole camera again, after a long time.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7903/...4ca19bcc_z.jpgLF006 by -HoodedOne-
Fuji HRT x-ray film with Y/G filter. Developed in R09 1+50 for 6 minutes.
Great result, nice balance from whispy couds, highlights and shadow detail.
Really good shadow detail too. Nice example
I didn't think THAT was possible. Looks like a orange filter on normal film.
Who made Crontex MRF 21 Plus?
Back in 2016 I obtained some from a member of this Forum, and it wasn't the Member I had believed it to be.
I don't have any Private Message traffic to help me. I figure that I owe them some thanks.
It got me into using X-ray film & it means I am using my Graflex a lot more than I was.
Nice results. I've been using that film in 11x14 for close portraits. I'm a little surprised at your developing time since it took me a while to find something that would give a workable time without being too contrasty (overdeveloped). I settled on my replenished Xtol at 4 1/2 to 5 minutes. Then recently I tried Caffenol since I thought that would be fun for some coffee related portraits I want to do. Those results were so promising that I'm continuing to experiment with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoodedOne
I may give the R09 a try since I have some around. What sort of exposure are you getting with your setup.
Thnx Mark
When I started using x-ray film, I read every piece of info I could find about developing x-ray film. The 6 minutes was a good starting point, also for the way In develop my film. For 4x5 and 8x10 I use a Patterson Orbital. And not only do I use very little developer (120 ml), with constant agitation. But also there is very little R09 in it (2.5 - 3 ml). The 6 minutes developing time in combination with the developer and constant agitation turned out pretty good, and I’ve been using it ever since (also for ‘normal’ film).
You can see the result above. I do some digital post-processing, but nothing crazy. And sometimes I use these negatives for cyanotypes. And those also turn out nice (https://flic.kr/p/UZiujA).
The image above was shot as e.i. 100 @ f/230. Measured exposure was 21 seconds, the corrected exposure was 39 seconds.
Interesting. Do you think you are getting compensation from exhaustion of the small quantity of developer? Xtol seems to hold the highlights well with decent speed, but Caffenol was even better at that to my surprise. I seem to get noticeably more shadow detail. I'm not saying really more speed since it may just be that I can give more exposure without pushing the highs up too far. The highs seem to go forever, so you could correct the contrast in scanning if you could capture it all, but I'm just contact printing so have to keep it in the ballpark. I'm only shooting x-ray in 11x14, so doing trays and need at least 1 lliter per tray, so your R09 method might not work as well for me, but I will try it at some point. I have some older R09 that has slowed down just a bit that would be dandy for develop by inspection.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoodedOne
I did a few shots on the Fuji HR-T 11x14 yesterday to compare my lens choices for portraits at about life size. I had 3 shots, so setup 3 trays and ran them at the same time. I used Xtol this time since I need to sort out some issues I had when doing this gang processing with Caffenol. These are a contrasty since I didn't want to extend the exposure more and risk loosing one of the comparison. These were about 8 seconds, but Bob can hold pretty still.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7802/...f0d79994_c.jpg11x14 lens comparison. by Yew Piney, on Flickr
Would any users of 4x5 like to obtain some x-ray film?
It is 10x12cm, so it does not need to be cut down. It is double-sided & apparently somewhat orthochromatic.
The film is in daylight packets, sandwiched between sheets of lead foil. So... No need to cut it down.
This is the Foma Indux R4 I have been using. Apparently the UK importer obtained a large quantity for an industrial user & have been left with quite a lot on their hands. I have had 200 sheets (4 boxes) off them.
They DO NOT want to send the stuff for silver recovery and they have consented to me publicising it on this forum.
I am awaiting whether they would post internationally or not as well as contact details.
Hi Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Crabtree
Your guess is as good as mine.
Most of the time I do these things on intuition, based on things I read. If I blow it, I’ll try something else next time. But as long as I’m happy with the results. I don’t care if people tell me I’m doing something wrong.
The process I use now, works for me. It might not work for you, or anybody else. But it shows that you can still get good results without using the Massive Dev App :)
If it works, why change. I use the same amount in 375ml of water and either stand develop for 45 mins, or rotary for ten minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoodedOne
I’d be interested if they can ship to the US.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Purling
I regret the seller of the material has indicated UK only.Quote:
Originally Posted by j.e.simmons
If anyone from the UK wants any of this film they have indicated a minimum purchase of 2 boxes (100 sheets).
Interested persons ought to contact : info@HexagonLimited.com. State that this is about the the 10x12cm Foma Indux R4 in daylight packets.
They have stated that they have 60 boxes of the stuff. Be advised that this material is expired. It has probably been properly stored, but they just want you to know it isn't fresh material. I don't have a box with the batch code or expiry date.
It is worth having some fun with.
What sort of price did you pay per 100 sheet's ?
I might look at getting some when I get back off holiday .
Same here, depends on total price.
Never mind, just saw it's UK only.
You should e-mail the seller at the address I gave in order to negotiate the price. Especially if you want several boxes of film.
Then you have to add on shipping of course, which is probably going to be more if you live somewhere especially distant, like the Isle of Skye.
I have been there & the scenery makes Man feel very small & insignificant. I could easily eat up the 150 sheets I ordered documenting that portion of Scotland.
I dare say that the same would apply to the Grand Canyon or Yosemite to our members in the US.
I got some x-ray 8x10 film. I read that this film has emulsion on both sides.
1) How do you go about placing this film on the film holder? Is there any mark on top to show which side has more emulsion?
2) Doesn't the side that touches the film holder get scratched?
3) Is it really 8x10? Does it fit the film holder, or is there any change that needs to be made ( cut, etc.?)
4) What is the ISO of the film?
5) How can it be developed? time, developer, disposal?
6) Is there lead on it? Where?
1 Both sides are the same, so no need of a notch
2 Sometimes
3 Fits just like real film
4 Depends, many start at 80
5 Start by developing exactly like your last real film
6 No lead, that lead issue was about Electron Microscope X-Ray film packaged in lead pouches for longevity. Lead disposal is an issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepeguitarra
The film's emulsion (present on both sides, in most cases) is relatively fragile while dry but scratching can be minimized with careful handling during loading/unloading. The emulsion becomes EXTREMELY fragile during processing. Any kind of physical contact, from sheet film holders or tray bottoms or your grubby mitts, will surely abrade the emulsion. Extended processing times or powerful solutions can actually cause physical loss and sloughing of the emulsion. Try reversal processing of x-ray film if you're feeling brave :)
ISO is harder to pin down given the orthochromatic nature of the film. With halogen strobes I rate at 80-100 and in full noon sun closer to 200. You can tame contrast by overexposing and pulling development a stop or two (which also helps shorten processing times) but be aware that areas exposed at or near the shoulder of the film's response curve will strongly bleed or 'glow' into adjacent areas due to the lack of an anti-halation layer. This sort of softness is present in all areas, but is particularly pronounced in the shoulder given the quantity of light reflecting back through the emulsion.
The film is nominally designed for 'rapid processing', so solution dilutions or development times can be an order of magnitude away from the standard values. I most commonly develop x-ray in Rodinal 1:100, which for traditional film you would expect a development time of an hour or more, for 6-8 minutes.
There is a GIANT thread about X_ray film. I wish they had kept the Image thread separate from the technical thread but it is their sandbox and we have to live with it. There is a LOT of real good info in their you just have to sit down and wade through. COpy and paste the answers to your questions, that way it is one space and you can focus just on those responses.
I have been haveing good exposure luck at 80, but I also spend most of my photo time between 5000 feet and 11 thousand feet. The sun is brighter up here. On the other hand, my developing process and/or handling is not successful and I have gotten lots of scratches. I am currently going through the thread again trying to address this issue. Good thing this stuff is dirt cheap.
There is one single sided x-ray film available that I know of - Carestream EB-RA. It is available in 8x10 only and s notched as are all panchromatic film. Nominal speed in daylight 100. It is a beautiful film and easier to handle because of the single emulsion.
Good luck - I am a devoted x-ray film user.
Threads merged.
Jim refers to https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-r...ideo-film.html and only that type as there are a few different types with almost the same name.
It was once also available in 14X17 inch 500 sheet cases only.
The 8X10 as Jim states is great to use.
Easy to cut down to any size under the correct safelight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Thanks Randy. Very helpful. pepe
Attachment 188509
Nagaoka 8x10, fuji 250mm 6.7, orange filter, green xray film
Here are my first four attempts at x-ray film. Two actions colluded to create the scratches: 1) Lack of a large tent, so I had to do it inside a changing bag (easier than doing it in the little 4x5 tent), besides, no dark room yet; 2)In order to take the negatives from the holder and put them into the Jobo tank, I had to bend and touch the film everywhere. Regarding the EI, the first two shots were done using an EI:40, the last two at EI:80. I developed the four in the Jobo tank for 6 minutes with Xtol (1+1). Honestly, I am impressed with the potential of X-ray film.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7909/...0a4f8a5a_m.jpgjpg-1stXRay-Regadera-Int8x10- by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7922/...3346ca0a_m.jpgjpg-2ndXRay-Fuente-Int8x10- by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7824/...4cbb4cef_m.jpgjpg-4thXRay-taller-Int8x10-GClaron210-9 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7895/...86238cd6_m.jpgjpg-3rdXRay-taller-Int8x10-Fuji250-6.7 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
Bravo! Well Done, really like the detail and tonal range of the last one.
I'd say that, for a first attempt, you're about where we all start. Bravo & keep it up!
Greetings guys
what would be the best color tempereature (kelvin) for (green) xray film to work with LED lights ?
Anything not red / dark orange
My first shot at the use of x-ray film. I've tried 3 different developers on Fuji AD-M film. I was surprised at the heavy clouds on the Kodak developers. Agfa is way smoother. Maybe I have to try Rodinal as many of you seem to use that ...
Attachment 190166
Agitation is critical when using xray film. Too much and you get uneven development, too little and it's the same story.
I've had good results with instant Mytol in a tray.
Then I rocked the tray probably too much. Is time also a factor? E.g. watering down the solutions to get longer developing times?Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
Your results look more like too little than too much agitation, but only you know exactly what you did ;)
Higher dilutions for longer development times can help and are a viable option depending on which problem you're trying to solve.
Since this is a mammography film, I assume it's single sided?
Agitation that works for me is gentle lifting of (flat-bottomed) tray once, north/south east/west. Then let rest for one minute. This works well for double-sided, 8x10, 14x17. I use Pyrocat-HD or Blazinol (Rodinal deriviative).
I use a similar pattern. If more agitation is needed for particular films or developers i lift 3 corners each 30 seconds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
If you are using X-ray film, you may want to download the free paper I just posted on this forum on SLIMTs. It specifically discusses reducing the contrast of X-ray film with SLIMTs.
Constantly shaking the tray from left to right ...Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
2nd try with pre-soaking the film in 3% soda solution to get rid of the anti-halation layer for 4 mins. The developers react more quickly but the clouds are still there. Next try will be indeed with Rodinal or HC110 ...
Attachment 190207
Dilute Rodinal 1/100
try 7 to 10 minutes medium agitation
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Your dev times are too short using those developers (at what I assume is "normal" strength).
I develop any of my X-ray film (blue, green, or the Kodak one-sided only) with Xtol (1+1) or Rodinal (1+50) for 6 minutes, and always obtain satisfactory results. Here is an example using the Kodak one-sided-emulsion film;
https://live.staticflickr.com/7830/4...926e9c93_c.jpgJimNoel by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
Hello, this is my first post :)
I'm interested in trying Fuji Super HR-T (green) X-ray 8x10 film in my large format 4x5 camera.
Just ordered it, still waiting to receive. Description says that emulsion is on one side only, hopefully it's true.
Planning to use my paper trimmer to cut sheets down to 4x5.
Has anyone used this HR-T film before? Any word of advice on ISO rating and develpoing?
Thank you!