How long was the development time in HC-110 1:63?Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
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How long was the development time in HC-110 1:63?Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
8 minutes using CXS Green Latitude filmQuote:
Originally Posted by salvatore
Thank you very much, Randy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
I used a time of 10 minutes with a similar dilution(2ml HC-110 syrup+100ml water). I think you had a temperature around 20°C. True?
Moreover I have read somewhere that it is possible to use more diluted solutions if the development time is increased accordingly (almost inversely proportional in some range)
But what is the amount of developer required for a given film area? How much for a 4x5"?
Thanks for your attention,
Salvatore
I am a real beginner with film development, and absolute beginner with double coated negative films like Xray's, but I like to share with you my first experiences.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
I needed to develop small negatives, 4x4 cm each, and after having many scratches due to rough manipulations, I built a simple holder in this way.
On a sheet of plexiglas about the size of the tray (about 12x20 cm) I glued three strips of the same material along the longer side, one, large 1 cm, in the center, and two, large 7 mm, parallel to the central, and at a distance of about 3.6 cm from the border of the central strip.
The strips were sanded in one edge to create a small indentation to keep the film. By placing the film between the central strip and one or the other side ones, the film arcuates a little, since it is larger than the available space between the strips.
The sheet charged of film is placed in the tray and covered with the developer.
A plexiglas bar, sealed to the sheet, allows some manipulation of the submerged sheet.
And some manipulation was actually performed in the first few minutes, then every three or four minutes, until the end (after 10 minutes)
I used always a Philips red lamp placed at about 1 meter from the tray, with no fogging.
I hope to be of some utility for small film development. With the same principle I prepared a holder for a 9x12 film and it worked fine.
I don't know if it will still work with larger sheets, like the 18x24cm Fujifilm I have.
I finally got around to scanning this and wrote a little blog post about how this image was made. Here's the photo:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kSYweTiUbC...00_stitchs.jpg
Here's a link to the blog post if you would like to read about my continuing 8x20 tribulations (this was when that image was shot of me and the banquet camera a few weeks ago).
The tones on that are REALLY nice for xray film. You're on to something good.
http://www.tillmancrane.com/portfolio_alabama.php Tillman has a couple wide format swamp photos here, and I've seen more on his wall, but it's good shape for what you're after.
Thanks for the link!
I'll be honest, I did a big curves adjustment on the top half of the image. I used a 2-stop GND but it was still very bright due to the green-sensitive x-ray film and the abundance of green foliage. I also overexposed the sheets because I miscalculated my f-stop (I'm using a borrowed shutter from another lens and totally messed up my calculations by over a stop). That said, Acufine seems to give me the best overall results with this film. Bleaching one side still seems to be the best course of action for my usage (it's Fuji HR-T btw for those interested).
Bryan, nice looking image regardless. You will love the 8 x 20 when you get it done.
I still have to look into cutting down some 14x36 x-ray film. Luckily I have a good supply of 8x20 film now.
Thanks Jim! I was looking at the 14x36 film too - if you ever get around to doing that please let me know!! I don't have the equipment, space, time, or patience to try cutting down film right now so I would be happy to buy some from you.
Title: Daffodils
8x10 in Xray Film
Printed in Hot press Fine Art Paper.
Lens: Taylor Hobson Cooke Portrait lens Soft IV
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/908/Ns0Y6b.jpg