Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

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Originally Posted by James R. Kyle

I make my own developers ....

Attachment 256188

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Thank you so much for sharing your experience! I tried your recipe. Previously, I used developers without antifog agents (d-23, rodinal, x-tol). And I had a hope that it would help me... I did two tests for 6 minutes (agitation every 1min) and 12 minutes (adding 10 ml of 0.1% benzotriazole and reduced agitation every 2min). The unevenness of density is still there, but barely noticeable (slightly increased contrast in Ps). And yes, this is probably the best result for my film so far

Attachment 256209

...Judy on X-ray film
Attachment 256645
An experiment to develop X-ray film using Dektol as an aggressive film developer~
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the Film…Fujimedical green x-ray.
the Lighting… A diffused LED “shop light” off the left shoulder, ambient room light elsewhere.
the Lens & Camera…A 250mm f 2.3 Wollaston meniscus, on a 4x5 Tachihara.
the Metering… Incident light, ISO 320 (not the usual ISO 70 for Xray film).., f:11, @1/25 sec.
the Developer…A Dektol/glycin blend, @1+10 dilution, @ 3min, 65º,= extremely dense negative.
the Reducer… Kodak T-14a formula reduced the negative to totally ”clear” in 10 sec, (oops!).
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…after rinsing the almost invisible negative I decided to continue on…
the Scanner…Epson V700…the Software: Affinity Photo 1.8.4… adjusted levels & contrast….
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The strong grain pattern on the “soft focus” meniscus lens image is quite intriguing…
An ink-jet 8x10 test print shows promise despite my sloppy handling.
I’ll handle it more carefully next time…
~
Reinhold

https://www.re-inventedphotoequip.co...quip/Home.html

...Judy on X-ray film Attachment 256645
An experiment to develop X-ray film using Dektol as an aggressive film developer~
~
the Film…Fujimedical green x-ray.
the Lighting… A diffused LED “shop light” off the left shoulder, ambient room light elsewhere.
the Lens & Camera…A 250mm f 2.3 Wollaston meniscus, on a 4x5 Tachihara.
the Metering… Incident light, ISO 320 (not the usual ISO 70 for Xray film).., f:11, @1/25 sec.
the Developer…A Dektol/glycin blend, @1+10 dilution, @ 3min, 65º,= an extremely dense negative.
the Reducer… Kodak T-14a formula reduced the negative to totally ”clear” in 10 sec, (oops!).
~
…after rinsing the almost invisible negative I decided to continue on…
the Scanner…Epson V700…the Software: Affinity Photo 1.8.4… adjusted levels & contrast….
~
The strong grain pattern on a “soft focus” meniscus lens image is quite intriguing…
An ink-jet 8x10 test print shows promise despite my sloppy handling.
I’ll handle it more carefully next time…
~
Reinhold

https://www.re-inventedphotoequip.co...quip/Home.html

8x10 (green HRU)
D-23 1+3


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...869c2869_c.jpgPipe by Andrew O'Neill, on Flickr

Is anybody using Carestream Industrex MX 125 industrial xray film? I believe it was originally a Kodak product.

If so, I'm interested to know what EI others are shooting at. I read somewhere that EI 100 was achievable but my limited experience has been that EI 25 is needed to get shadow detail.

I purchased the film with the intention of using it in an 8x10 pinhole camera, which has an aperture of f/375, as a faster alternative to paper negatives. However I'm finding that shooting paper negs at EI 6 (and no reciprocity failure adjustment) produces a shorter exposure time than shooting at EI 25 with a reciprocity adjustment based upon the Fomapan 100 reciprocity characteristics (which I adopted as a presumed worst case scenario).

Here's one of my better attempts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...786b6e2c_c.jpg
St Annes Church, Battlefield, Newcastle by Kevin Allan, on Flickr

Hi Randy,

Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I recently bought a case of 14x36 Fuji HR-U from ZZ and every photo I've gotten back has had this problem as well.

I'm using hc-110 dil h about 6 min moderate agitations

indicator stop bath

kodaks regular fixer - about 5 min

would love to know if you or anyone on this forum have any solutionsAttachment 258330

was shot on my Hasselblad 500cm


Thank you!

Mdan, I used to get marks like that on HR-U when I developed with Rodinal. I switched to 510 Pyro and they went away.

Weird, I started with Rodinal and HR-U, and have never had those issues. Trying Pyrocat, I did have issues with various issues so abandoned that and went back to Rodinal, and have developed hundreds of sheets of HR-U with nothing like that ever. Not sure what other interactions could cause that - acidic / basic fixer? I've always used Ilford hypam.

The only developed I think I liked more was Acufine but it is too expensive to use with x-ray, for me.

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Originally Posted by KevinAllan

Is anybody using Carestream Industrex MX 125 industrial xray film? I believe it was originally a Kodak product.

If so, I'm interested to know what EI others are shooting at. I read somewhere that EI 100 was achievable but my limited experience has been that EI 25 is needed to get shadow detail.

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Only just seen this post. I got hold of some Industrex DR50 last year, and shot a few test shots with it, developed in PQ Universal. I forget the outcome but it was slow, very slow. Glacial in fact. I may be misremembering but maybe like EI 1-3 sort of range. Maybe it would be better in a different developer, but it seemed like it was so slow as to be borderline unusable for me in practical terms, if it's slower than Multigrade paper negs there seemed to be little point in going to the bother of cutting it down. Based on this I'd be amazed if you can get EI 100 out of the MX125 stuff - I'd be trying that stuff at 6-12 sort of EI.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mdan

Hi Randy,

Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I recently bought a case of 14x36 Fuji HR-U from ZZ and every photo I've gotten back has had this problem as well.

I'm using hc-110 dil h about 6 min moderate agitations

indicator stop bath

kodaks regular fixer - about 5 min

would love to know if you or anyone on this forum have any solutionsAttachment 258330

was shot on my Hasselblad 500cm


Thank you!

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If you are referring to the “black dots” all over the image field, these are the effects of using hydroquinone-phenidone aggressive developer. HR-U is particularly susceptible to this phenomenon, in my experience. I would suggest that you switch to methol developer (including methol-glycine).