Fred, I just added the film to my cart, and they list three places as shipping destinations: USA, Canada and Dominican Republic.
Shipping one box to Canada via UPS is only $22, but it's UPS :(
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Fred, I just added the film to my cart, and they list three places as shipping destinations: USA, Canada and Dominican Republic.
Shipping one box to Canada via UPS is only $22, but it's UPS :(
thanks Ari, that UPS thing is a killer though. did you order or just ran the order to see what shipping cost ?
I just ran it through to see the cost.
I'm sending you a PM.
What do you consider "very dilute" Pyrocat HD?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
5ml of A and B solutions in 1200ml water.
Thanks
yesterday was not my day :) negs, prints.... but anyway
Attachment 121003
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13x18 + Fujinon 250/6,3
Kodax Blue X-Ray 13x18 in Pyrocat HD 1:1:100, contact printed on Slavich paper in Ilford MG Dev
Can't you just buy some x-ray at an Canadian seller for medical equipment? Might be it bit more expensive but from what I have read you have 22 dollar to play with if you can skip UPS. In the Netherlands I bought at a dutch medical supplier and they didn't ask if you where a professional. But that might be different in Canada of course. :) Oh and I payed €55,00 for 100 sheets of double sided film.
My day wasn’t much better either. Thought I’d tentatively standardize on ISO 25 and do some portraits, since I really liked photoevangelists work in this thread.
This extremely blue film make skin looks crazy with all those pores and blemishes. And then I think I’m overdeveloping after I thought I have to battle mottling with near continuous agitation and sheet flipping in my tray.
Metered ISO 25, f22, 1s. But messed up on the first frame and shot at f5.6, i.e., 4 stops "overexposed". So, ISO 1.6?
http://i.imgur.com/kbIegWTl.jpg
Metered ISO 25, f22, 1s. Metered EV 9 on the right cheek and EV 7 on the left. So I need to go easy on the agitation, or dilute more. But I already diluted Refinal to 1+3 and developed this for 15 min, instead of 5 min before.
http://i.imgur.com/nc5hPlLl.jpg
side-by-side
http://i.imgur.com/IcbMzqx.jpg
But now I think I will just stop doing trays and use this
http://i.imgur.com/TR6SnIp.jpg
Then I can do less frequent agitation and hopefully avoid mottling and fucking up the sheet trying to flip it over.
You are developing by time instead of by inspection? What concentration of Rodinal are you using? I adjust my concentration of Rodinal, or Dektol until it takes about 8-9 minutes for developement. I had a problem with stronger mixes of the image going from too thin to too contrasty with higher concentrations too quick. Are you also washing (stopping) in a rotary processer? I would try just changing one thing at a time. I would first develop the way you have been, then rinse in a tray without agitation. I use distilled water. What happens is, the water pretty well stops the highlight development, but, by not agitating, the developer works a little longer on the shadows. If that doesn't do enough, then try diluting the developer more. You are already close to the short side time frame for developing.I don't know how much, if at all, this helps with this problem. But I can assure you of one thing. The problem is not with the film. Ektascan is the finest orthochromatic film available today.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC