Yeah, i got this doll for some collodion series, but ended up never starting it (was too hot here for 2 last months) :) Now that it cooling down i can start after all
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Oh and after 30-35 minutes developer looks like REALLY dirty water ;) and, what is interesting, fixer doesn't become as yellowish as with 12 minutes or less.
The very first test picture, it's not bad, but in the future some little problem i will hope be solved.
Film: XOE Retina (iso400), Rodinal 1+50, dev.: 7sec, in tank, rotated with my hand.
Attachment 122760
I wonder if anyone has any idea why xray films clear so quickly in the fix? Given their extra density, that's the last thing I would expect.
They also seem to dry quickly.
As a semi-educated guess, the double emulsion films use a grain technology appropriate for a single emulsion at half the speed (because the double layer gives roughly twice the density for a given exposure), or about ISO 50 for "full speed" material -- and in general, the slower the emulsion, the smaller the halide grains and the faster they'll clear in the fixer. Further, they're cubic grain rather than tabular; tabular grain takes 2-3 times as long to clear for a given speed. A half speed double coated x-ray film probably has grain size comparable to one of the faster printing papers, which will fully fix in two minutes in rapid fixer; even the full speed version ought to fix almost as quickly as Ilford Pan F or an ortho litho copy film (which typically fix about like enlarging paper).
Thanks.
Regular film can clear pretty quickly too, but we don't see it as that's not done under safelight conditions.
I turn on the lights as soon as the film (regular film) is in the fixer. TMX takes like 4-6 minutes to clear. Most others are a little less. But not nearly as fast as x-ray (instantaneously, pretty much).
I can't address the "how" aspect, but isn't x-ray film designed to have a much shorter processing time than regular film? I seem to remember my dental x-rays being dry and ready for viewing in three to four minutes.
Jonathan
OK, it's normal orthochromatic film. I did not see if it is coated with emulsion on both sides. It is considerably easier to develop single sided films. Try a shot between 11:00 AM and 3:00 PM at 100 ASA sensitivity. Develop in a tray under a red safelight. The best safelights today are 3 or 12 Volt red LEDs. You can develop in 1 to 100 Rodinal, until the negative is done under the safelight.