Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Gentle agitation in a flat-bottomed tray when using double-sided. I have just enough developer (pyrocat-hd) to go up to the first joint of my index finger. I don't get scratches or scuff marks. Another method is pulling the film out of the tray, and placing it back in, pushing it to the bottom very gently. Twice per agitation cycle. This works well even with 14x17. Wear gloves. Keeps chems out of your system, and keeps finger nails from scratching the film. Don't forget ziplock bags method, too.

Hi StoneNYC yes, it is hand colouring, a cotton bud and some SHIVA Veronica Cass, unfortunately no longer sold.
I had a few probs getting the double sided film in and out, it would scrape on the wood at the end at the material hinge. I solved this quite easily by sacrificing another negative, I slide the good film over the old negative and it stops the contact with the wood

Woops forgot to add, the same technique with the second negative also works well in developing trays, I use glass plate in the bottom of the developing tray so the film cant scratch against the imperfections in the tray, and have another negative in the other trays. I just turn my developing negative over a few times so that both sides get equal amounts of chemical
Cheers

From the first few post then skipping to the last few post the knowledge of working with the xray film has grown. Based on that if you were going to try xray film for the first time in a 4x5 what film would you try?

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Originally Posted by stradibarrius

From the first few post then skipping to the last few post the knowledge of working with the xray film has grown. Based on that if you were going to try xray film for the first time in a 4x5 what film would you try?

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Do you mean cutting it down yourself? They don't make 4x5 X-Ray film, there are companies that cut it down for you at a premium of course. But then you're limited in what they cut.

I always say 8x0 Ektascan (carestream) because it's single sided.

With all the recent 4x10 work being posted by Chris Barrett, I caught the 4x10 bug again. I dusted off my 4x10 reducing back, cut down some Xray film and took the Shen Hao out yesterday to my favorite place.
Attachment 125128
Shot on Fuji HRT Green Xray film
Attachment 125129
Shot on Agfa Ortho Green Xray film
Both images were shot at iso 400 with the Fuji 210 mm f5.6 lens at f32 with a No 8 yellow filter.
Developed with Rodinal 1:100 in the Jobo system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StoneNYC

Do you mean cutting it down yourself? They don't make 4x5 X-Ray film, there are companies that cut it down for you at a premium of course. But then you're limited in what they cut.

I always say 8x0 Ektascan (carestream) because it's single sided.

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I agree with your thoughts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ndg

With all the recent 4x10 work being posted by Chris Barrett, I caught the 4x10 bug again. I dusted off my 4x10 reducing back, cut down some Xray film and took the Shen Hao out yesterday to my favorite place.
Attachment 125128
Shot on Fuji HRT Green Xray film
Attachment 125129
Shot on Agfa Ortho Green Xray film
Both images were shot at iso 400 with the Fuji 210 mm f5.6 lens at f32 with a No 8 yellow filter.
Developed with Rodinal 1:100 in the Jobo system.

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Terrific images!

I have been following this thread since its inception, and I am currently using Ektascan but have a need to move to a double sided film and cut it down for larger unusual sizes. Several entries have indicated cutting down film, a task at which I have rarely been successful, but none have described their method.
I need some ideas of methods used by those who are regularly successful with this task.
Do you use a jig?
Is a razor knife superior to a rolling cutter?
What is your method of holding them film steady?
Thanks for you ideas.
Jim

I use a rolling cutter. For most sizes the film holder needs film a little less than 1mm smaller than the nominal size. I'd recommend taking one piece and by trial and error figure out what exact sizes you want to cut, the first time.

I use a lots-of-plastic Fiskars disk cutter that cost me something like $20 at Office Depot. More $$$ now, apparently:
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classi...dp/B000YAJHVE/

Word: I have never trusted the ability of any paper cutter I've used to make a square cut. When it's been important, I have set up a fence of tape at the right distance from the blade, and use that to brace the opposite end from the one I'm cutting, at the correct distance. Most paper cutters are a bit casual about making their side fences 90-degrees to the cutter.

I make a stack of about five pieces of 5" long masking tape, and lay that on the cutter's board as a fence, starting with cutting 8x10 into 5x8. So, first I put the fence at 5" minus about .6mm. I don't like handling the film a lot, so I cut a pile of about 5 sheets, in multiple passes, both holding down the holder on the cutter, and with my hand flat on the stack so it doesn't move. Then I take the pieces I cut off, and trim them from 5"+ to 5"-, again as a stack in multiple passes.

I store it that way, as 5x8. If I need 5x7, I cut to 7"-- using the tape fence-- in a pile as before. If I need 4x5, I cut the stacks of 5x8 as I made the initial cuts--once cut of 4"-, then taking the off cuts and cut the little strip off of them.

It sounds complex, but it really isn't. I make a pile of 5x8 when I feel like it, then cut it down later to what I really need at that moment.

Two things: I've never gotten scratches from cutting and handling. When it's dry, it's just as tough as regular film, so if you don't scratch Tri-X you won't scratch x-ray. Second, I am lucky in that I don't have oily hands, nor do I have acidic skin, so I don't leave any prints on film (that was handy when I was printing in commercial labs! :-) If you have oil or acid, you may have to wear cotton gloves or something.