YES!
X-Ray is good for many things
If I buy an ARCA, I will test it with X-Ray
Rod, more than likely I am not a buyer, as I have Norma and Linhof Studio cameras
I like to dream
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Try a less active developer, like D-23 or HC110 1+80 to1+100.
I am able to tame the high intrinsic contrast of HR-U by using 510 Pyro in stand development. It also means less agitation so less chance of scratches.
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I tried HC-110 "H" and got pretty contrasty results. Mic-X is a soft developer, but not with MIN-R. Drat.
Two developers I want to experiment with next, are D23 which I've been using and like it with all my crazy mix of Pancro films, and also Pyro PMK+. I have a bottle of PMK I recently decanted into smaller bottles, and now it's time to get out the Amidol, which makes it PMK Pyro+. Adds genuinely about a half stop of measurable emulsion speed. My fave soup of all time, which I have not used for more than twenty five years. I used a flat toothpick to scoop and dump the Amidol. Turns Pyro some wild rainbow colors which change quickly so gotta be quick starting up development. A lot of chemical change obviously going on there. The increase in shadow density is measurable 1/3-1/2 stop
More fun ahead
Thanks everyone for their input.
It got much better with the lines and developing marks, and i guess i did too much agitation this time. But so far, 10ml of Rodinal in 1 liter of water has given me nice results. I have tried HC-110 but it was last year and i still was making a lot of mistakes with the dilution and general developing process.
I think i will give it a try at some point this year, maybe when i ran out of Rodinal.
Rodinol works well for me too
Been using it for 8 years, easy mix, I use whatever is cheapest and stock up
In OE bottle it seems to last nearly forever
I use for 35mm, 120 roll and 2X3 sheets in SS cans 4X5 to 8X10 on hangers
But I waste some as I always mix 1/100 to make 1 L, I never store mixed
In my 4 L gas burst tanks, I fill with distilled water, then add the R0d9nol and run gas bursts 10 cycles to mix
I stop with distilled water and reuse TF5 nearly forever as it seems to last too long
I test my TF5 every usage with X-Ray cutoffs for time to clear
Rodinol is 100% exhausted at 20 minutes regardless, use it immediately
I like simple solutions
pun intended
ULF X-Ray I mix Ilford PQ Universal Developer and use trays
Hello: I've kind of been lurking on this thread. I'm a first-time user of Fujifilm HR-U which also is my first time in 8x10 and tray developing. From previous reading elsewhere, I rated the film at ISO 100 and developed with HC-110 dilution B for 5 minutes. Results indicate over exposure by quite a bit. Also, as first time tray developing film, I dinged up the film during processing but I knew this was a possibility with this film. The film is drying now, so I will see how it scans tomorrow. I'm just wondering if I over exposed, over developed or a combination of both.
I'm going to be doing some serious bracketing to see what will work the best if my developing time and strength are close to recommended.
Too many unknown variables to consider any solution
I use Green X-Ray which is NOT GREEN, as it is cheapest
I use known shutters with known apertures and always consider bellows factor. I test my shutters with a discontinued iPhone gismo
Daylight varies continuously, some meters are not correct
I mostly shoot studio flash, same 4 for years, very stable
A very good modern Sekonic Flash Meter is essential for me
However in daylight I always guess exposure by Sunny 16, as I shot Sunny 16 ONLY for 40 years
Then I check with Sekonic
I believe the film is green. Here's a scan of one of the negatives.Attachment 226227
Photo of film hanging from drying: Attachment 226228
Photo of film with back light: Attachment 226229
Again first time using this camera and the lenses. Trying x-ray film as an "economical" way to experiment
My notes indicate f/16 @ 1/25 second but shutter speed to be verified. Sunny day. aah, sunny 16 would indicate 1/100 second @ iso 100 rating.
I'll check the shutter and verify. I am going to do some more experimenting at different film speed "ratings" and compare against "sunny 16" Just checked my notes exposure was f/16 at 1/25 second. Sunny 16 should have indicated 1/100 second at iso 100 film rating.
Lots of variables and note taking ahead.
I seem to have done pretty well with typical 4x5 films and roll films.
Hello all,
I'm new to the site and to this thread, and I will soon be delving into X-ray film for use with a 5x7 camera (I ordered the Fuji 8x10 green film and intend to cut it to fit my holders).
I plan on using D23 diluted quite a bit. Does anyone have any suggestions for dilution and development times? I've been clicking through the pages but haven't found this yet. Thanks!
I'm getting some answers. I checked the shutter speed with an Iphone app with an optical adapter. 1/25 on the ilex lens was actually 1/5 and the compur shutter 1/9 second. A scenario ripe for over exposure. Now to keep the results with my kit. I need to learn to use longer shutter speeds with these lenses.
Now to test my 4x5 kit. (more lenses, more work)
Testing old shutters is smart!
The “green” refers to spectral sensitivity range and was intended to let the medical user know what kind of film holder with what specific phosphor lining to use to convert the X-rays to visible light to enhance sensitivity and lower the X-ray dose to the patient.
Since your film doesn’t “see” the entire visible light spectrum your light meter, even if modern, will sometimes suggest incorrect exposures. Early in the day or late in the day it can be up to several stops wrong because the color of the light is more toward the red (insensitive) portion of the spectrum. Incandescent light or similar color temperature fluorescent or LED indoors will also do this. I’d expect studio flash to be better because it is more full spectrum and very repeatable.
Putting in front of the lightmeter's sensor a filter that cuts away the spectrum the film does not see, will it force the meter to give result more in the range of the film.
In pracitcal terms: measuring trough a green filter will it give more accurate results, even late/early in the day?
Why cyan an not green?
But you cut the blue away with the yellow filter you put on the taking lens.
Btw, where can one buy cyan filters?
The idea behind using a cyan filter on the meter would be to make the meter “see” more like the film does. Loosely speaking, an orthochromatic film can’t see red light, so if the meter can’t see red light either, it might give more useful exposure readings for the film. It’s not going to work perfectly but anyway. A cyan filter such as the Wratten 44A (“minus red”) would be one to try. This assumes no filter on the taking lens.
If you use a yellow filter on the taking lens, to attenuate blue, you’re effectively using mostly green light to expose the film, in which case a green filter on the meter would better approximate how the film sees.
These will only be approximate adjustments due to the inherent differences in spectral sensitivities of the meter and film. Obviously the specific filter used on the taking lens will affect this.
Well done Michael R
Eugen, ask him questions
Thank you both
Michael, that is exactly what I meant. Thank you for explaining it better. Also thanks for mentioning the minus red filter, I will look out for one.
Tin Can: Nope, my English is not american. It is just bad. Where are you from? I bought a lot of X-ray from German Ebay.
I am from the middle of USA, Chicago
Moved often since child
I bought only from https://www.zzmedical.com/x-ray-acce...-ray-film.html
I experiment more than some members like
rules are to be broken
If you want slightly darker blue sky, or better separation between cloud and sky, with green latitude x-ray film, use a yellow filter. The strongest I have used is a #15.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...96b269a7_b.jpgAshton Pond Norma Handy HRU Mic-X by Nokton48, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...881ae3bc_b.jpgAshton Pond Norma Handy HRU Mic-X 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Sinar Norma 4x5 Custom Made HANDY 4x5 XRAY HRU 1 sec F22 Sinar Norma Medium Yellow 108mm Glass Disk. Camera mounted on Star-D tripod. Legacy Mic-X Replenished Straight in Cesco flat bottomed tray under red safelight. Omega DII 180mm black Rodagon laser aligned. Arista RC #2 Multigrade dev
The yellow filter darkened the sky slightly. I prefer this
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...636493da_b.jpgHRU Filter test 1 YG 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...001c7bc5_b.jpgHRU Filter test 2 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5ae8cac8_b.jpgHRU Filter test 3 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...27099208_b.jpgHRU Filter test 4 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
Testing the Norma 108mm Glass Disks Yellow Green versus Dark Yellow. I like em both
I prefer to shoot 9x12cm with the Handy as it's pushing it to use it with 4x5. You can seen the darkening in the corners. It really dosen't cover even with center filter. Sinar Norma 9x12cm holders are much better for my uses
You're Welcome TC
What's everyones recommendations for exposure when shooting with strobes? I've been shooting Fuji HRU recently at ISO 80, developing in XTOL 1:1 for 6 mins. Getting good results with natural light portraits but VERY thin negs when shooting with strobes (Broncolor Mobilites / Godox AD300). What's a good starting point for exposure? Do I need to drop to around 20 or so?
Do a ring-around bracketing, take copious notes, and then you will know. I use old Blue Broncolor Pulso Monolights and packs with XRay. Often I get into doing multiple pops of the strobe, if not dealing with moving subjects.
How under are your results approximately? I would adjust to that median, and bracket 1/2 stops both ways in your tests. Then let us know the results here :)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5d059d49_b.jpg18x24 Mammo Sinar Norma 300 Xenar Arista No 2 RC by Nokton48, on Flickr
This was four pops of Broncolor C171 375 watt seconds. Background painted by David Maheu
Great, thank you! I'll run some tests today. My negs were pretty much transparent with only a little highlight detail - but funnily enough, the scanner provided somewhat usable images. I'm shooting portraits mainly so multiple pops won't be an option. My Broncolors however can put out a combined 2800w/s so shouldn't be an issue haha.
I have two Broncolor Pulso 606 packs which will do each do 6000ws in a single pop. Get out your sunglasses LOL
Good Luck and post some results here
I'll share some recent portraits... The studio/flash lit ones are super thin negs which the scanner managed to recover...kind of.
Attachment 226602
Attachment 226603
Attachment 226604
And here's a quick test. Shot at EI 10 with a single godox AD300 strobe. Straight out of the scanner.
Attachment 226608
I use PCB Einsteins with Carestream half-speed blue in the studio. I rate the film ISO 25 under those conditions. But bear in mind I'm using a Packard shutter — so I'm not sure how accurate the nominal 1/25th second exposure is. I suppose I could put a modern lens with a Copal shutter on my camera & do some tests. If I do I'll let you know the results.
Good lows, mids and highs. Looks like you nailed it XTOL six minutes? So now u know
Have been playing a little bit more wit the Xray. Fuji HRU. IE 10 with only strobe light, XTOL 1:1 6 Minutes.
Attachment 227242
Kallitype print made from 14x17 double-sided, green latitude. Developed in D-23 1+1 in a flat-bottomed tray. I posted the video in the On Photography section.
Quote:
Hello Mr. Jim
Please, I would like to have some help.
This is my first time developing an X-ray film and I was hoping for some guidance.
This is Fuji Blue X-ray film. Filmed at ISO 25 with a 4x5 camera
I have the original Rodinal raw.
I have a reel for development that I have 3D printed, because I use dishes as I don't have a safe light.
according to your ink,
Optimal Rodinal Dilution
Suggested time, temperature, agitation.
thank you very much .
Attachment 228026
Attachment 228038Attachment 228038
The first picture is with Rodinal
Second photo with Kalogen 1:100 - - 5 minutes - 25 degrees Celsius
Continuous agitation at 8 rpmAttachment 228039