Well, all I can say is that it's been a hoot being a part of this thread from the beginning...2009! I'm glad I stuck it out with this stuff. I gave it up briefly, but got back into it when I built my "piece of crap" 14x17 back in 2011.
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Well, all I can say is that it's been a hoot being a part of this thread from the beginning...2009! I'm glad I stuck it out with this stuff. I gave it up briefly, but got back into it when I built my "piece of crap" 14x17 back in 2011.
I’ve been shooting Fuji full speed blue rx-n with a yellow filter at iso 25 with decent results. I like it so much I decided to get hr-U green “orthochromatic”. I did some side by side shots with the yellow filter and at iso 25. The green stuff turned out much darker, I’d say 5 stops darker maybe. I think the shadow detail Loss is probably not from the film but from the underexposure. I’ll test hr-u again wo the yellow filter and at iso 6 or 12.
Top two have been heavily shopped to match. Bottom two are flat scans.
Hr-u:Attachment 232009
Rx-n:Attachment 232008
Hr-u: Attachment 232010
Rx-n: Attachment 232011
PS this is 10 minutes of tray developed d76 1:2
whatever your issue is, it's not the film, unless you got a bad box that was stored improperly or something. hr-u green should be perfectly useable at iso 100 or higher.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edison
From my little experience with HR-U i rate it at iso25 and works well with dilluted developers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edison
As for the yellow filter, when i use a 2x yellow filter with HR-U i give it 3 stops overexposure (instead of 1 in the case of a panchro film)
Thanks what I was thinking, the yellow filter may be cutting out more light than expected. I’ll test again and report back. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by chris73
This is a brand new box from zz medical, so I hope it’s good film.
Im only at page 250 or so of the thread, trying to catch up. I hear people mentioning 200 even, but I haven’t seen anyone talk about hr-U specifically, I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by maltfalc
The zz medical site says hr-u is green, but the spec sheet says “orthochromatic” implying it’s green blue, if I understand it right.
The blue one is rx-n and it’s called “full speed” whatever that means.
I’ll try 100, 50, and 25 iso without the filter, and then as the other comment suggests, essentially iso 3 with a yellow filter. I’m using a 2 yellow 8 which is a mild yellow, typically 2/3 a stop
Once I'm through the 100 sheets of the cxsonline green latitude 14x17 (got about 20 sheets left...), I'll tackle my box of HR-U Green. I'm imagining EI will be similar.
I have been buying $1000's of X-Ray film from ZZ for a decade
Always' fresh, in date
No worries with ZZ as they are bonafide MEDICAL suppliers
Iowa is trustworthy
They found me a full case of 14X17 single sided just as it disappeared, that was $1000Quote:
Originally Posted by Edison
Well worth it
I also have plenty of 2x with some coming this week
The old guard dislikes we novices as they fear their fave film will in fade away
hr-u replaced hr-t at some point if that helps, basically the same. x-ray films come in "green" or "blue" versions for use with green or blue x-ray phosphor screens. blue is plain silver halides, so uv-violet-blue sensitive. green trades about half that sensitivity for sensitivity to cyan-green-yellow (mostly green), so it's orthochromatic. fuji colour codes their boxes green or blue. i've never used rx-n, but i would expect it to be much darker than green hr-u if you're using a yellow filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edison
RX-N is what I started with and I set my meter to 16iso and meter for zone 3. I’m not happy with my highlights so I’m going to Keep experimenting with d76. It seems like almost nobody uses d76 so far (up to 258). Rx-n: Attachment 232063Quote:
Originally Posted by maltfalc
I can’t wait to go out tomorrow and test more.
Edit: using a yellow filter