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Well :) We may find one day, right? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Its from yesterday's workshop on lighting techniques. I been handed task of showing how to do lighting close enough to traditional Penn's fashion photos ;)
Got it about right, but just couldnt resist to get few portrait shots. (she is also a photographer, btw)
Sergei,
Outstanding light!!
Please describe the setup.
Thanks. Its nothing super special, actually. Single light on right, black subtraction panel on the right.
What really makes difference is understanding how light works when it comes to various projecting/diffusing things.
People dont really like to think about it nowdays, but there is certain optimal distances for various sources.
In this case its medium Deep Throat Octa and distance is roughly 2.5-3m (sorry - i got very good sense of distance, but cant tell actual distance).
Stripping/bleaching shouldn't be so difficult. Tape down a dry negative onto a piece of plate glass with the emulsion that was facing away from the lens when you made the exposure, facing up. Use good 'ol duct tape.
Place the tape along the rebate and press firmly. Run your finger nail along the edges of the negative, pushing the tape down firmly along this edge.
Brush on bleach. You don't need a lot. I use a foam brush. The emulsion will brown up and come off immediately. Wipe with a damp sponge. Hold up the plate glass and inspect the negative. Repeat if you missed some. If all is good, take tape off and place negative into a tray of water. Rinse/wash well. Done. Bob's your uncle.
Stripping also decreases the negative's density range by half. You may have to develop longer to maintain a respectable DR. If you contact print, there really is no point in stripping. I alt print and no matter how long I extended the development time, I was unable to reach an adequate DR after stripping, even with a staining developer such as pyrocat-hd.
Yep. What Andrew said :)
here are couple of 15 minutes exposures ;)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/9...5bb7663a_b.jpg
Chili pepper: #1 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5490/9...814c47d4_b.jpg
Chili pepper: #2 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr
(it was raining yesterday and i was bored)
Some shots from the other night:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2811/9...e28e3dd8_b.jpg
Teenie Weenie by Lee Smathers, on Flickr
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2868/9...2be1cfc3_b.jpg
Banila Co. by Lee Smathers, on Flickr
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5500/9...22e1dea8_b.jpg
Eblin #01 by Lee Smathers, on Flickr
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/9...5a6c186f_b.jpg
Eblin #02 by Lee Smathers, on Flickr
All on 8x10 Korona, 12" Dagor, Fuji-HR-A, Rodinal 1:100 - 3 min, Tanks and Hangars, Not Stripped, Epson v750 negative scan
All were at, or around, 1 min @ F45 exposures on a very busy street. At least 50-100 people passed the lens on each exposure.
I now have a 14x17 film holder and will be making my 14x17 extension back. I am curious what lenses people are shooting 14x17 with.
Right now have a Rodenstock 360mm f6.8 Sironar-N which may cover for portrait and a RD Artar 19", both have flash sync which I want.
I also have Schneider Symmar 360 mm f5.6 which I gather has the biggest coverage of the lot, but is in Compound shutter without sync.
Actually my last choice is a Kodak 305mm f4.8 Portrait. But I am thinking I want sharp rather than soft.
I am aiming for studio 1 to 1 head shots. I need to make lens boards for whatever I chose and would prefer to try the better combination first.
I really don't want to buy more lenses, if possible.
Any advice?
Did you get the one from Keith Canham? I just saw that message on Facebook. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Wish I could do 14x17!
Guilty, it's a beauty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by photoevangelist