I always shoot with either a #11 light green or #15 yellow filter, on green latitude. They both work very well, especially the #11 on foliage.
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I always shoot with either a #11 light green or #15 yellow filter, on green latitude. They both work very well, especially the #11 on foliage.
I even knew better than to use a filter. Was not thinking.
Anyone here using Xray film for alternate process??
just curious
thanks, Peter
That's what I use it virtually exclusively for. Mostly salt printing and I need to pick up carbon transfer again. I don't think x-ray is superior for the purpose though. Far from it in fact.
I've had good prints from Ektascan BR/A, Pyrocat HD, and Dr. Mike Ware's New Cyanotype chemistry. You have to like the look of Ortho films. I find it a cost savings I need. Plus, I can work with the lights on, if I don't badly over do it.
I have found it works fine with filters, orange, yellow, I have just bought a red, but haven't used it yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBone75
I use it for albumen.Quote:
Originally Posted by peter schrager
Scan of a contact print on Ilford MGWT from an 18x24cm negative.
Fujifilm AD-M film developed in 11x14" trays in Adox RO9 (10+1000) @ 24C for 8'min with intermittent agitation.
Shot with an 8x10" viewcamera and a Fujinon W 180 @ f/22 and t1/4"s
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1859/...c16cf376_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/...087c7177_b.jpg
I have used it for traditional cyanotype formulas - works fine.
Shot on 8X10 green sensitive.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bzz56aer0i...mg622.jpg?dl=1
Late afternoon light.
Captured on Fuji AD-M xray film, with a Kodak Master View 8x10" camera and a Fujinon 180 lens.
Developed in Adox RO9 (10+1000) at 24C, in 11x14" trays, for 8'min with intermittent agitation.
Scan from negative, finished in PS.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1895/...9014c922_b.jpg