Thank you very much. How much would I dilute the developer to start with so that I would have time to watch it work and soften contrast a little?
Printable View
Thank you very much. How much would I dilute the developer to start with so that I would have time to watch it work and soften contrast a little?
I have not used D23 yet, but plan to
I use Rodinol 1/100 at 70f 7 minutes under dim red safe light, very gentle agitation
stop is plain water 30 seconds
Fix for twice clearing time, which you can see happening
adjust developing time as you see fit
wash in low flow water for 10 minutes, hang by corner to dry
I use it straight.
Ken Lee, a member here has very good advice on film and paper,
Here is his D23 dissertation
Thank you all. I know I have seen a page in this massive collection talking about using D23 diluted to ease the contrast but I don't recall the ratio nor can I find the page again.
I came to this thread to look for this. Yep, 500+ pages is a lot to go through and forum software isn't great for searching.
I am planning on doing some PT/PD prints this year and read that x-ray film is great for that cause of the high contrast it produces. And seems a bit more economical for contact printing.
Exposure is dependent on your film, your latitude, weather and the time of day. In San diego on a nice day I use an EI of 100 from 2 hours after sunrise until an hour prior to sunset. Before and after these times I drop the EI to 25-40 dependent on the amount of red in the light. This can be determined by bouncing the light off a CD which acts like a prism and allows one to see the full available spectrum. On cloudy days ther Ei may drop as low as 10-12. Experience is the basis of exposure with these films on other than nice days. I have been using Orthochromatic films since the 1930's which was well before I Got an exposure meter.
Films - Carestream EB/RA and Fuji HRU.Developed in whatever seems handy that day, always by inspection.
Woop! That is some good info. And when you mean latitude, like as in longitude/latitude right? I'm in SoCal too.
"always by inspection". I did that for a living in NYC. 3 of us in NYC did it commercially. At the time, nobody was doing commercial B&W with inspection. Green light and footswitch all the way!
Jim, do you inspect with a brief green light or with the normal red safelight?
Jim, Another inspection question do you use reflection or transmission inspection? I learned normal inspection from Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee primarily based on reflection, but occasionally using the green light as a back light. I'm doing my Fuji mammo film now using a SP-810 tray and opening it up for the first time at 5 minutes, I worry about someone not nocking and entering the communal darkroom. Do you use trays, hangers, or something else?
I usually use trays. Inspection is by reflection off the reverse side looking primarily for good density in the highlights . The shadows are extremely difficult to see, especially in my 90's.
I'm ready to try it out, looks like Fuji has a new improved version called the:
Fuji Super HR-T Medium Speed Green 8x10 X-Ray Film
Does anyone know if this will fit an 8x10 holder with no cutting?
I am gearing up on some PT/PD prints this fall, even changing my old homemade Lightbox into LED. Bostick Sullivan emailed me and said to make sure I have about 2+ stops over on regular film.
Since what I've been reading about x-ray film, its nice and contrasty so would like to try it out without breaking the piggy.
It will fit if it is 20.3 cm x 25.4 cm. You may have to buy larger nd cut down.
Yes it should fit any normal film holder
if you like it, stock up as I think it's fast disappearing in NA
Ohhh? I did notice that my dentists went from film to digital. And when I got xrays for a very bad sprain wrist, it was digital as well. Kinda neat that you can see your cavities almost as soon as he takes an xray of it instead of waiting.
Will have to check it out.
Today is "build a new UV LED box day". Ripped out the old UV black lights flourescents. That thing go SO HOT I had to put foil in the box, and a small fan when I turned it on.
Attachment 208293
Attachment 208294
Attachment 208295
Here's some more work. This is all Fujifilm x-ray, 7 1/2 minutes in Rodinal with constant agitation.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...636493da_z.jpgHRU Filter test 1 YG 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
Procession of Clouds Filter Test #1
Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 2/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 2/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F
Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade developer
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...001c7bc5_z.jpgHRU Filter test 2 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
Procession of Clouds Filter Test #2
Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 1/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 1/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F
Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade developer
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5ae8cac8_z.jpgHRU Filter test 3 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
Procession of Clouds Filter Test #3
Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 1/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 1/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F
Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade developer
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...27099208_z.jpgHRU Filter test 4 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
Procession of Clouds Filter Test #4
Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 1/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 1/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F
Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade develope
I use the SP445. The marks it leaves at the edges of my negatives are terrible. Tray dev would always leave scratches everywhere. I'd prefer to use something like the Jobo 3010. Currently I don't have the money for it. Would like to try selling some pictures, unsure if anybody'd buy this stuff in prints.
Attachment 208586
I have had very good success with a piece of plexiglass cut to fit the bottom of my trays. I labeled them with a sharpie so that they get used in the same chemical every time, and with the same side up. I wash them after each use and squeegee them off so they don't get water spots, although that probably wouldn't matter. I have found that too large a tray is not a good idea. YMMV
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...523e2a72_z.jpgHRU Fixing Step Dental Clips 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e48dc3e5_z.jpgHRU Wash Step Dental Clips 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
The white smooth Cesco trays are available in all sizes I easily bought mine from B&H. These are 8x10 and I also bought 5x7s.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ping_Tray.html
In the four posted directly above by me ^^^ absolutely no scratches anywhere, I use the dental clips I got on Ebay. It keeps the 4x5 sheets (I do two at a time) from sliding around in the tray, and keeps the sheets off the bottom of the tray. I use Paterson print forceps to carefully move the sheets between trays. If I am not diligent there will be scratches! I have found that ANY contact with ANYTHING will cause a scratch. The emulsion is super thin and comes off if there is ANY contact. I can scrape it off with my fingernail.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-DENTAL-X...53.m2749.l2649
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...31be3f5e_z.jpgHRU Dry Step Dental Clips 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr
After the photoflo, I CAREFULLY move the dental clips to the corners of the sheets, so that the water drains off as it should.
This method works and I have ZERO scratched film if I am super careful. The key is not to touch it at all while it is wet.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1f8e44b4_z.jpgHRU Makiflex Std Mic-X 240 f4.5 Tele-Arton by Nokton48, on Flickr
Plaubel Makiflex Standard camera 240mm F5.5 chrome barrel mount Schneider Tele-Arton at F22. One pop of Broncolor Pulso C171 monolight strobe with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. No fill. 8x10 Fuji HR-U XRay film cut into 4x5s straight Microdol-X replenished in a tray development by inspection under custom red light. 4x5 Lisco Regal holder. 8x10 RC Aristo #2 Multigrade dev Omega DII with diffusion Omegalite head.
I bet those subdermal freckles are nearly invisible to the naked eye. That's one of the things I love about this film.
Attachment 208586[/QUOTE]
Hey folks,
I've been away from this forum for a long time (a year?) because life got in the way. But I'm still planning to build a 14x17 camera, with the intent of using x-ray film. I have three lenses, a shutter I made, bellows, and all the material to make the camera itself. I hope to make the thing over the winter, and am actually putting off cleaning/re-arranging my workshop by writing this post.
Here's my question: Since I last visited, has there been any consensus on a particularly good film -- or few films -- to use, which is available in 14x17? I mean, like some which are less prone to scratching, for example. Or, short of recommendations for particular films, maybe updated info on some, like details on film speed, etc.
I read the entire thread last year, looking for all the information I could find. At the time, I saw lots of folks ask questions, and some folks would respond 'read the thread'. I plan to do that, actually, once winter hits Wisconsin. But for now, I'd like some specific pointers. I'm planning to experiment with my 5x7 camera, and would like to order some film for it that I can then upgrade to once I finish the 14x17.
Thanks!
The best X-Ray film was single sided Kodak Ektascan, which was available in 14X17 and 8X10 only
No longer available from any source I know
All still available X-Ray is very similar, green, blue, double speed means nothing for us. It is all double sided.
There is a bit of Mammo film left, but only metric sizes as far as I know
Be careful what you buy and make sure it is wet process and not DRY, or digital or anything else
Best to get film in hand while you can. It all appears on the slippery slope to oblivion.
I've had good luck getting my film from these Guys:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-Green-...AAAOSwjJZfgG3t
They charge only exact shipping per weight
Mee Too Jim, I will be buying a case of 500 8X10 sheets on payday
I prefer cases as then it comes in another box
I once bought 2 boxes of 14X17 which weigh a lot, one box failed, but the inner black bag held the disaster of lightstruck at bay
For the record, I have been warning of the disappearance of X-Ray for at least a year
on eBay I see long expired left over
O, man; I'm glad to have checked back now! I do see, after looking around the various sources I found last year, that the pickings definitely seem slimmer than they were a year ago. I do see some unexpired stuff still being sold, but in many fewer sizes (I haven't seen any 5x7 yet), and fewer film choices, too.
Speaking of expired, how old would it be worth buying, if I find some that's been stored at room temperature or better?
Nobody knows if any film has been stored correctly or gone bad, life is a gamble
but that's why I only buy from my normal sources
Which are ZZ Medical for X-Ray and B&H for most other film or Freestyle for stuff B&H doesn't have
any of them will support their products
but I have shot 120 year old glass plates
Thanks, good points!
It's off-topic, but I'd like to know more about those glass plates sometime. And, though it's been a long time, I still really appreciate your clear, generous help.
A 5x7 from my ROC Kenwood. Fuji HRU. Rodinol 1:25 for 4 minutes, tank developed. Shot at ISO 100.
Attachment 208624
I don't know as I never bought Fuji X-Ray, yet planning to
I do know KODAK Ektascan has one similar notch as it is single sided
Now that Fuji HRU maybe cut down to 5X7 and contain notches, but unlikely as all the HRU I see is double sided
But back to my experience with KODAK X-Ray film, it all has round corners which MAY BE an industry standard to lessen scratches when handling
While researching just now I found more metric Mammo at good prices
Fuji UM-MA Mammography 24x30cm Film
it doesn’t, someone put those notches in one of the film holders I have. Attachment 208625
I made some tanks with my 3D printer for developing my 5x7 negatives with. They only fit one at a time and take about 250ml to fill.
Attachment 208626
Listening to live webinar discussion on X-ray diffraction image of B DNA and who stole what from who, Rosalind Franklin features prominently as early pioneer
A 100 year story with DNA X-Ray image here
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8a33eff8_z.jpgAuto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e07a11c9_z.jpgAuto Maki no 2 180 2.8 Xenotar HRU 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...957f10f5_z.jpgAuto Maki no 2 180 2.8 Xenotar HRU 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer