Does anyone know where I can find a list of single sided X-ray film?
Thanks,
Jim
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Does anyone know where I can find a list of single sided X-ray film?
Thanks,
Jim
I think the answer to that is buried way deep in this thread. From what I've been able to gather, single sided films are only available in odd sizes and are way more expensive than ordinary double sided medical films. Examples would be mamography films and industrial films for radiographing welds and metal parts. My own experience is that emulsions on both sides isn't such a bad thing, but I haven't tried any single sided films.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
I seem to recall that there was some 8x10 single sided green sensitive. But it's a search finding it in the thread. Probably easier to find it at the supply houses.
It's true the single sided was way more expensive for some reason unfathomable. And the reversal duplicating film was expensive too.
If you're looking at those you may as well look at Ilford. That's superb film for little extra cost. Or some of the other "real" camera film.
The cheap stuff is the double sided xray film.
I am really surprised about the fact that single-coated X-ray film is so expensive in the US. I live in Germany and get single-coated X-ray Film (for mammography) at an approximately 40% higher price than double-coated usual X-ray film (43,00 € to 30,00 € for 100 sheets 18x24cm). The only drawback is that only metric sizes are available here so I had to purchase some extra holders just for this specific film.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Batchelor
Here's a few I took a while back.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrayne1...7624233385678/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrayne1/4670885880/in/set-72157624233385678[/img]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImSoNegative
awesome shot, took me a while to work out what it was...
yeah checked out your blog man so much stuff to look at.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
just wondering what x-ray film you used here.
most of the shots i see are fairly light, but this one looks like normal film, with rich blacks etc.
interestink...
also how much did it cost you to get a machinist to hook up your ektar?
cheers
A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
there is so much detail in this shot and openness that i can almost believe the water is moving, and i want to jump in.
The data sheet for Kodak Green X-ray film has a spectral sensitivity graph on the second to last page:
http://www.carestream.com/xraygengre...nfo_ti5026.pdf
It looks like an ortho curve. I haven't found any data for the Fuji or Agfa x-ray films. I'm pretty sure the blue sensitive films have no spectral sensitizing dyes, because for blue light they wouldn't need any.
A 1904 steam engine came through town a couple months back pulling a bunch of passenger cars. I wanted to get a very slight motion blur but I didn't think it would be going so fast. I should have set up my 5X7 camera along side.
Oh well...next time?
CSX Green Latitude 8X10 at ISO 100 in HC-110 1:63. 150mm Konica Hexanon and Packard shutter.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/train.jpg
greetings to all, i would like to try x-ray film and therefore found Fuji Super RX to buy, can anyone recommend a good starting iso rating for this film , i want to us 13x18 with a mentor 5x7 camera, mainly for portrait work, i have rodinal and hc110 , if someon tried them what times have you been using?
greetings luke
Hello you Guys where Talking about striping One side of the Film , can someone Tell me how this Works or how ans when this is done?
Luke there is a lot of stuff about stripping on here. Search using say, X ray and X-ray, and you will be rewarded
Luke the film is cheap try 25,50 & 100. In rodinal 1:100 for 6min
Fantastic landscape!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdenrichards
Thank you very much
One Last question , do i understand correctly that it doesnt matter which side of the xray Film is facing the Lens inside the holder, they are both Emulsion sides?
On most, I believe, but some (mamography film?) has emulsion on one side I believe.
My latest attempt - 8X10 CSX green @ ISO 100 in HC-110 "H".
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52893762/lndakti.jpg
this was shot on Fuji HR-T green, ISO 50 on my Wista 8x10 camera.
quick (dry) drum scan and tone added in PS, just like it better than the simple b/w version.
Brembo river, Northern Italy.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/94184552/al...ul%20fiume.JPG
Nice, what developer did you use? I shoot my HR-T at 50 too.
my lab used x-tol standard development
Interesting, thanks.
I have tried searching for a while now, but cant really find the/a answer to my question.
I live in Norway, do anyone know of a company that ships to Norway, that be from the US or Europe ?
Taulen, get in contact with FomaFoto (http://www.fomafoto.com/). They are somewhere in Norway and they distribute films and papers made by Foma Bohemia. They don't seem to distribute Foma x-ray films, but perhaps they will be able to inform you where to get them in Norway, or even get some for you.
Another possibility is your local hospital. Ask them where they buy their x-ray film. They even could have some out-of-date boxes that they could be willing to give you.
Good luck!
Luke, it's quite easy to do. Just lay the negative down on a sheet of glass with the side of the film that was facing the back of the film holder when you made the exposure. Tape down the edges of the negative with duct tape. Brush on some household bleach with a foam brush. The emulsion comes off quite quickly. Pick up the sheet of glass with the negative taped to it and give it a rinse. Hold it up to inspect that all emulsion has been removed. Remove the negative and give it a good wash. By removing the emulsion on one side you have reduced the negatives density range by half. You may have to develop your film for much longer before stripping in order to get back the lost density range. I don't strip the emulsion for carbon transfer printing.Quote:
Hello you Guys where Talking about striping One side of the Film , can someone Tell me how this Works or how ans when this is done?
Thanks Tom, will check with Foma =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Sobota
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8471/8...970818fb_b.jpg
spectrum
ambient series
Deardorff 8x10
Schneider Symmar Convertible 240 f/5.6
Fuji Super HR-T X Ray Film
f/22 rated for 2-3 minutes and exposed for 18 minutes
Reciprocity testing for X-Ray Film!
I bought a box of Fuji HR-U online. It took 6 or 8 tries to nail down the exposure and development but
I think this is getting close. I rate it at 100iso and it's pretty consistent but too contrasty, so this has
a 1 stop pull. 6min in HC-110 dilution H.
Attachment 82171
Attachment 82176
I'm completely new to both large format photography and X-ray film.
Have been experimenting with Fuji RX-U
My first 4 exposures were this plane at 50, 100, 200, & 400 ISO. I made the mistake (I think) of developing each exposure for a different time, the result is each negative is practically identical. No perceivable lack or increase of detail in highlights or shadowsm or massive variance of contrast.
I'm repeating the test again but this time with 2 shots at each ISO, half to be developed at 120secs, and the other half for 480 seconds.
The prior 4 were 90, 120, 180 & 240 secs respectively.
What developer/dilution are you using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpjfox
here is one i shot today, using green sensitive xray film rated at 100, calumet c1 camera, 14 in. petzval, yellow no.12 filter
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8...1cdb6ec7_b.jpg
just a tree by J. Golden, on Flickr
LC29 at 1:29, have lengthened the dev time to 4mins for 50ISO and 8mins for 400ISO With great results, the best at 50 i think. I ran out of 400 iso exposures to test the plane at 8mins, reshooting today or tomorrow. The above shot is majorly underdeveloped when seen next to the 4min dev shot
Bob, ancient photography manuals described a developer used for too contrasty (described as "over-timed") exposures. The nearest box develeper that I know of that is basically a hydrochinon only developer is Dectol. Dectol fell out of favor for this use when everyone went to pan film in the late 1950's. Why? You about can't develope pan film by inspection. But x-ray film is all more or less ortho film. The green x-ray film is the most like Plenachrome or verichrome. I use Dectol anywhere from 12-1 to 24-1 for 5 to 8 minutes. 5-8 minutes gives enough time to get the contrast you want without shooting right on by. If you have never used Dectol, it is first mixed with warm water, and then water added for a stock 2-1 mix. This is for paper. Take the stock mix and dilute it as above (12-1 or 24-1) as a one shot developer.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmercier
Attachment 82325
Fuji RX-U
ISO 50
EXP 5s
f/8.0
Schneider 210mm Symmar-S
LC29 @ 1:29 20DegC for 4mins
I just put 24 sheets of 14x17 x-ray film into the fixer. No image at all.
(I use it as carbon tissue support material)
I have been in contact with foma in norway, he is goingto check the next time he is ordering film, and every other place over here just have european size, type 18x24 and so on. And have tried contacting xray sellers in the US, and noone have thus far been interested in shipping overseas. So I have to ask, could anyone do me a favor ?
Order some xray film in the US, and ship them to me ? I will of course pay for all shipping and film, and some extra for the help. Please contact me if anyone is willing, thanks.
Are you familiar with the troubles and risks of shipping? i.e. the film being X-rayed in transit by the freight forwarder or operator?Quote:
Originally Posted by taulen
I can source Fuji X-Ray film for cheap (I know the NZ distributor personally), but the additional cost and risk of freighting it so far may not be cost effective.
As far as I have read that wont be a problem, of course the shipping costs add up, but in total in will still be alot cheaper. In norway the only "affordable" option is fomapan, everything else have to be ordered elsewhere anyway, so the shipping is something we have to factor in in any case. Xray film isnt anymore exposed to xray-scanning then anyother films, and I have never had a problem when having had film shipped from overseas.
Are you fussy about the size/type? I have a spare box of 100 sheets 28x30cm Fuji RX-U. Exposes pretty nice around 50ish ISO. I pick up samples or nearly expired stuff mostly random.
Yeah, thats the thing. I want 8x10 and 11x14, the stuff that fits the regular holders, no needing to cut stuff down or use "rare" holders. 28x30, 18x24 and all these sizes I can order myself, found a source in france that is willing to ship those sizes, but I would like to have the "correct" sizes, at least now in the beginning of trying xray films.
Type I dont really care about, I think, or should I ? =)
Thank you for trying to help out.
You can't go to one of the U.S. sellers, and order via e-mail? I thought the internet highway solved all of these problems. If you google up x-ray film, there's usually a half a dozen sellers trying to get into your hip-pocket.
Thats what I believed, but this is the usual reponds I got:
And from some I didnt even got a reponse back... So yeah =/Quote:
Jonny,
The film companies do not allow us to sell their products outside of the United States.
**** ***| Owner
do you know the iso of mamo xray film? I have some Kodak box and always expose them incorrectly
Hi Bush,Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush
I did a reasonably painless test to determine the correct ISO for my RX-U
I Took 8 exposures of the exact same thing, 2 sets of exposures at 50, 100, 200 & 400. Developed one set for 4 mins and the other set for 8mins. It helped me see the results of under/over exposure and development.
Thats for a low/medium speed film, if you have normal or high speed you might start at 200 iso and go up to 1600
All good, makes sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by taulen
If i get my hands on any in those sizes i will let you know, i shoot 4x5 so cutting down is something i will always have to do with xray film. Maybe when i upgrade to 8x10 i will loose my enthusiasm for the odd sizes.
The reason the people you have contacted will not ship outside of the USA may be to do with their distribution rights, or a genuine lack of interest, if the former maybe a distributor exists to ship to your country already, if not there may be such a thing that gives you a USA address and forwards your freight too you for a fee, i have an nz based one called youshop.
Taulen, have you tried contacting the Kodak/Fuji/Etc distributors for Norway and asking to speak to the medical sales reps? My contact is the normal photography rep, but he liaises with the medical rep for me. My boxes of film cost me a box of Heineken. Good times
Actually no, I havent tried that. I could do that, but I'm pretty sure they will only be able to find the so called "european sizes" everyone else over here get their hands on, but its worth a shot. And thank you !Quote:
Originally Posted by cpjfox
Good luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by taulen
Cutting it down isn't so bad given you can do it under the safe light though.
ISO box speed is just an approximation where Ortho film is concerned, and I think all x-ray film is Ortho, either mild (blue) or more orthochromatic (green). So the color temperature of the light affects exposure. On a summer day, between 10.00 Am and 3.00pm, in the afternoon. probably 100 or 80. Shoot it between sunrise and when the sun is 15o above the horizon, and it could be 25 or even lower. Why? Red light. Ortho doesn't record red light hardly at all. I suggest you take 4 exposures, one at 100, and one at 50 in the middle of the day. then take 2 more, one at 12, and one at 25 at sundown. To develop, use a red safelight and develop until done. Be sure to print them. What looks too thin will sometimes print very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush
my small beauty shot on fuji xray green film
http://s14.directupload.net/images/121024/lggngb2q.jpg
Both shot on a Calumet Monorail with Schneider Symmar-S 210mm f/5.6 with Fuji RX-U
Attachment 82483
Hudson Bomber at RNZAF Museum, Christchurch, NZ
5s f/8.0 @ 50ISO
LC29 at 1:29 for 4mins @ 20DegC
Attachment 82484
Portrait by Sunset
1/30s f/16 @ 400ISO
LC29 at 1:29 for 8mins @ 20DegC
I haven't had an opportunity to scan the negatives properly yet, I've used my iPad as a Lightbox for a Digital SLR snap which I invert in Lightroom.