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I was mistaken about using Rodinol. I only use it, but for the big tray and the 14x34” 2X XRay I used Ilford PQ at 1/9 and it was fully developed in 2 minutes. Water stop for 30 seconds and TF5 fix for 3 minutes.
I could watch it develop and it was fixed quickly.
I washed quickly also.
I just remembered how I did it.
A few experiments with Fuji Super HR-U 30 expired since...2009 :)
Rated ISO 50, 9x12 camera.
Just for reference i photographed the negatives with a m43 camera...
Development in Caffenol Black (no vitamin C) for 50-60mins, 21oC stand or semi-stand, gives as expected low contrast but a very interesting... pictorrealistic outcome, or like a pencil drawing touch
Attachment 190440
Attachment 190441
Then i tried Ilfosol 3. A good starting point i think is something like:
ISO 50
Ilfosol 3 , 19+1 dillution, 21oC.
4min
Constant aggitation the first minute, 5-6 aggitations every next minute.
Attachment 190442
With yellow filter 2x i had to overexpose 3 stops
Attachment 190443
Your experiments have been fruitfull, I think your results are very promising, well done
I have not read the 532 pages, so, can anyone tell me how you deal with reciprocity with X-ray film. Thanks, Pepe.
At the risk of being flippant, test with your workflow. When I read through the thread that was the overwhelming consensus, regardless of the particular question.
Pepe, most here do not shoot very long exposures.
I think I saw only one or two post about it. I have read most of the thread.
It is hard to search for but I just found these links in google. I used your words to search, there is a lot out there.
google search "reciprocity with X-ray film"
https://pubs.rsna.org/doi/10.1148/42.5.471
https://www.photrio.com/forum/thread...-effect.62519/
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1296352
Thank you Randy. I found the links very useful, specially the last one. I am doing my own test, that is the reason I wanted to compare with others. I found that if I don't adjust for reciprocity, I can develop the film without any problem. I tested up to one minute without problem. When I tested for three minutes, I did noticed an over exposure (that is what I did yesterday), which prompted me to ask the question. The negs are still drying, so, I will post the result of this last try later.
Thank you. It is a great fun anyway :)Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewch59
Pepe,Quote:
Originally Posted by pepeguitarra
Since X-ray film is truly orthochromatic itis sensitive only to blue light. Thus, as the sung heads for the horizon, the film slows down accordingly and I Know of no one who is using it in situations which require long exposures. I guess there are those who use extremely small apertures and might runinto reciprocity, but I haven't heard of them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Well, I've used it all the time for long exposures. The fastest shutter speed for me was one second... still need compensation. Very poor reciprocity. Randy linked to my data that I've been using successfully for many years in the field. :)
I have referred Pepe to you as a source concerning reciprocity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
So that explains all the people knocking at my door at all hours! ;)
:o :confused:
I’m only using 8x10 x-ray film with a pinhole camera. So, exposure times range from 1 second to 16 minutes. I can give you the reciprocity data I have, although I don’t know how I got those.Quote:
Originally Posted by pepeguitarra
Post for all for all us please
Recip will depend on light source as some have posted
Strobes vary, flashbulbs vary
Time of day daylight is A variable
LED color temp varies
Every variable varies
Testing methods vary
Some just lie. A photographer technique down the ages to protect their advantage
Misdirection is common
ymmv
😎
http://www.bwvision.com/complete-gui...-2016-edition/
I have found the timings in here pretty spot-on, as long as you are using nd filters of course.
That article assumes a full digital work flow and hence doesn't give useful insights into reciprocity issues as present in ilm capture.
FWIW, with Ektascan BR/A I don't notice any reciprocity issues at least up to 15-30 second exposures.
I agree,but have not done exhaustive testing.Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
This is the reciprocity data I use for x-ray film (e.i. 50)
(Everything in seconds)
1 = 1.3
2 = 2.8
4 = 6
6 = 9
8 = 13
11 = 19
16 = 29
23 = 44
32 = 67
45 = 98
64 = 176
91 = 285
128 = 514
181 = 1224
256 = 2228
362 = 5940
Actually it does, by chance or not I Have the exposure chart and use it regularly, that plus the fudge factor given for reciprocity work very well in my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
It also shows images created by Micheal Kenna, an ANALOGUE photographer.
Here is the data on a graphic:
Attachment 190579
Since I've been playing around with Adox CMS 20II and POTA, I thought I'd develop some double-sided green latitude xray in POTA. I normally process with Pyrocat-HD and I wanted to see how it would look. Both sheets were developed for 8:00. The sheet on the left was in straight POTA. The one on the right, POTA 1+1. Tray developed (flat-bottomed). Slight agitation every minute. 24C. Reciprocity correction was given for both...4sec became 8sec.
Attachment 191421Attachment 191422
Quite a difference andrew, even under the stairs, are you surprised by the results??
Yes, I was a bit surprised. I wasn't expecting the diluted version to have more contrast. Then I realised I shot them both at the same EI. For serious work, I'd probably give a third stop more exposure (or more) when using 1+1.
Now is the Time to Upgrade to Digital X-Ray
Just got this in an email
https://mailchi.mp/zzmedical/vz93vwe...1?e=8b605a7efd
The End IS NEAR
It looks like the images taken with the X-Ray are neater than the ones taken with the LF camera. In any case, I am waiting for my request to upgrade to digital too. I have bought from them about 400 sheets.
I've got about 300 sheets of 8x10 and about 80 14x17 sheets. Once they're gone, that's likely it for me and Xray. I've got so much conventional film to use...
Hey all,
I have an 8x10 camera which I've shot a few negatives and it has been a complete failure. I think I'm doing everything right but must have missed something. I've processed 2 negatives at different times with no success. The first negative I got the faintest partial image when held up to light but pretty much unrecognizable. The film was very black and the emulsion was easily rubbed off with my finger nail. My second attempt yielded a completely black negative with no image whatsoever.
Here is my process, worked under a 6watt red safelight.
1. Exposed the negative. Each time was a different shutter speed and aperture.
2. developed in D76 1:1 for 9 minutes at 20c.
3. Stop bath tap water for 2 minutes.
4. fixed with ilford rapid fixer for 5 minutes.
5. water wash and hang dry.
Any ideas what's going wrong?
The x-ray film is fuji super HR-T 8x10 green latitude.
The sheets appear to have an almost silver tone tone to them. Once I put them in the developer they turn dark black after about 5 minutes but no image ever resolves. When I'm finished i'm left with a black negative, no image, and the emulsion is almost gooey and easy removed with a light fingernail scrape.
Oh I see you posted over here. Good! What ISO did you use? And probably D76 1+1 is too strong. Try 1+3 or weaker. Why the emulsion is gooey, says either something wrong with the film or processing. Xray film emulsion is very fragile when wet, so great care must be given...but it shouldn't be gooey.
Yup thanks.
The film just says "medium speed" but I heard it's around 100 ISO.
ISO 100 should be fine... but depends a bit on the developer and dilution, too. So, I would try again but with a more dilute developer. Xray film is contrasty.Quote:
Originally Posted by kendolinator324058943
Okay thanks. I mean, would using 1:1 really cause it to be completely washed out like that? I'll try again I guess. The safelight i'm using is a large xmas light. Could that be affecting anything?
Which look do you prefer, Andrew ? The one on the left seem to resemble Dev 23 (to me)....maybe it's the bright chair (in the right pic) that's not to my liking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Les
Possibly. It may not be a true red, or be leaking some white light somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by kendolinator324058943
Quote:
Originally Posted by kendolinator324058943
Yes. The Christmas bulb most likely is a major issue. It's not "safe". And yes, 1+1 dilution is pretty strong (in my experience of 11 years using xray film). I prefer a longish development time. 8 to 10 minutes (dilute Pyrocat-HD).
So it was the red light. I developed it it in complete darkness and it turned out ok.
On another note, I developed a piece of Orth Litho 3.0 with the last sheet of xray and it came out blank, almost transparent but not quite. Is this because i'm not using the Litho a/b developer?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...24d96994_c.jpgmay2019-020 by Vance, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...157c642c_c.jpgmay2019-013small by Vance, on Flickr
Here are two recent (very different) x-ray shots of mine. These were shot on Fuji green film, cut down to 4x5. The bulb was shot at f:64 for 300 seconds. I was at about 2.5:1 magnification and took a wild stab in the dark for reciprocity.
The portrait was (memory is fading) f5.6 for 1/15th of a second.
Both were processed in hc-110 1:70 for 6 minutes in a rotary tank.
Nice Lance!
This was shot on cut 5X7 X-Ray, then made FP4 4X5 inter-negative enlarging to 16x20 negative print. It was lit, but dimmed way down at about 3-1 macro.
I have posted it before, but one good bulb deserves another...I call it Atomic Bomb.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4583/3...4bb3cd9c_z.jpgAtomic Bomb by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
Please order one or two of these. Use them with a reflector-type shop light pointed away from your work area (bounce the light off the ceiling). If you use two bulbs together you'll want this adapter.Quote:
Originally Posted by kendolinator324058943
Window light? What time of day?Quote:
Originally Posted by blue4130
Indirect window light, about 2 pm Beijing haze. Not sure what that compares to as far as Oklahoma light. Guessing you are brighter with less pollution ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by seezee
Indirect window light on a hazy day will transmit less UV and the blue end of the spectrum requiring considerably more exposure for the x-ray film.
Apart from the pollution, I think you are farther north. Beijing = lat. 39.9042° N; OKC metro = 35.4676° N. So I'd probably need a slightly shorter exposure.Quote:
Originally Posted by blue4130
The great thing about x-ray film is that it's cheap so testing to find what works in each situation doesn't break the bank or anger the better half (too much) ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by seezee
film: 18x24 Kodak MIN-R S Carestream Mammography film, blue sensitive single sided
development: CPP3 with expert drum 3005, Rodinal 1:100 20 degrees C for 8 minutes, drum speed 50, 100ASA
lens: Spatz Paris La Sphere (aplanat) 24x30 cm (ca 360mm) @ f22
lights@ camera: 6 foot rotalux softbox with elinchrom flash fom above, Deardorff V8 with pneumatic shutter with flash sync
[img]/Volumes/EUROPOLIS FILM/18x24 xray/Untitled (4).jpg[/img]
Great work, Thomas.
thank you Peter!
The facial expressions are priceless, I guess patience was waining?? Great shot
This is an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone has used or seen x-ray film without rounded corners? Essentially, square corners. I have fuji green with rounded corners but I started to cut down the 8x10 to 4x5 with a safe light and not having a rounded corner on 4x5 might be a blessing. thanks
I've only seen rounded corners, sorry.