Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

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from previous post

photo 4: meniscus 250mm on 3d printed body and home made f 10 stop - 2 seconds

photo 5: rapid euryscope at f 6 2 seconds

photo 6: E. Francais 210mm at f 4,5 with 4 seconds.

There where big clouds, so the sunlight was going back and forth, and thats why the exposure times are so mixed. Also i thought i could be a nice opportunity to experiment with the limits of the film.

I hope you all enjoy, and as always, feedback, questions, comments and critique is very welcomed.

A great weekend to everyone!!!

YES!

X-Ray is good for many things

If I buy an ARCA, I will test it with X-Ray

Rod, more than likely I am not a buyer, as I have Norma and Linhof Studio cameras

I like to dream

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Originally Posted by agustin.gd

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Hello to everyone. I have been away for quite a while now, but i will try to keep posting some experiments with lenses and examples.

5x7 x-ray film - developed in Rodinal-

From top to bottom, left and right column:

photo 1: MOM 497mm at f 6,2 - 1/2 second

photo 2: Brown MFG 19 inches at f 32 - 3 seconds

photo 3: unbranded weitwinkel 110mm f 8 - 1 second

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Try a less active developer, like D-23 or HC110 1+80 to1+100.

I am able to tame the high intrinsic contrast of HR-U by using 510 Pyro in stand development. It also means less agitation so less chance of scratches.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried HC-110 "H" and got pretty contrasty results. Mic-X is a soft developer, but not with MIN-R. Drat.

Two developers I want to experiment with next, are D23 which I've been using and like it with all my crazy mix of Pancro films, and also Pyro PMK+. I have a bottle of PMK I recently decanted into smaller bottles, and now it's time to get out the Amidol, which makes it PMK Pyro+. Adds genuinely about a half stop of measurable emulsion speed. My fave soup of all time, which I have not used for more than twenty five years. I used a flat toothpick to scoop and dump the Amidol. Turns Pyro some wild rainbow colors which change quickly so gotta be quick starting up development. A lot of chemical change obviously going on there. The increase in shadow density is measurable 1/3-1/2 stop

More fun ahead

Thanks everyone for their input.

It got much better with the lines and developing marks, and i guess i did too much agitation this time. But so far, 10ml of Rodinal in 1 liter of water has given me nice results. I have tried HC-110 but it was last year and i still was making a lot of mistakes with the dilution and general developing process.

I think i will give it a try at some point this year, maybe when i ran out of Rodinal.

Rodinol works well for me too

Been using it for 8 years, easy mix, I use whatever is cheapest and stock up

In OE bottle it seems to last nearly forever

I use for 35mm, 120 roll and 2X3 sheets in SS cans 4X5 to 8X10 on hangers

But I waste some as I always mix 1/100 to make 1 L, I never store mixed

In my 4 L gas burst tanks, I fill with distilled water, then add the R0d9nol and run gas bursts 10 cycles to mix

I stop with distilled water and reuse TF5 nearly forever as it seems to last too long

I test my TF5 every usage with X-Ray cutoffs for time to clear

Rodinol is 100% exhausted at 20 minutes regardless, use it immediately

I like simple solutions

pun intended

ULF X-Ray I mix Ilford PQ Universal Developer and use trays

Hello: I've kind of been lurking on this thread. I'm a first-time user of Fujifilm HR-U which also is my first time in 8x10 and tray developing. From previous reading elsewhere, I rated the film at ISO 100 and developed with HC-110 dilution B for 5 minutes. Results indicate over exposure by quite a bit. Also, as first time tray developing film, I dinged up the film during processing but I knew this was a possibility with this film. The film is drying now, so I will see how it scans tomorrow. I'm just wondering if I over exposed, over developed or a combination of both.

I'm going to be doing some serious bracketing to see what will work the best if my developing time and strength are close to recommended.

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Originally Posted by morecfm

Hello: I've kind of been lurking on this thread. I'm a first-time user of Fujifilm HR-U which also is my first time in 8x10 and tray developing. From previous reading elsewhere, I rated the film at ISO 100 and developed with HC-110 dilution B for 5 minutes. Results indicate over exposure by quite a bit. Also, as first time tray developing film, I dinged up the film during processing but I knew this was a possibility with this film. The film is drying now, so I will see how it scans tomorrow. I'm just wondering if I over exposed, over developed or a combination of both.

I'm going to be doing some serious bracketing to see what will work the best if my developing time and strength are close to recommended.

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blue or green? don't expect anyone to tell you if you overexposed or overdeveloped when none of us can see the negative.

Too many unknown variables to consider any solution

I use Green X-Ray which is NOT GREEN, as it is cheapest

I use known shutters with known apertures and always consider bellows factor. I test my shutters with a discontinued iPhone gismo

Daylight varies continuously, some meters are not correct

I mostly shoot studio flash, same 4 for years, very stable

A very good modern Sekonic Flash Meter is essential for me

However in daylight I always guess exposure by Sunny 16, as I shot Sunny 16 ONLY for 40 years

Then I check with Sekonic