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I only bought from Iowa, ZZ Medical
They would search for single sided 14X17, I think all long gone
I have all the X-Ray I will ever use, including a case of 14X36" for a project
Many on this forum did not and do not LIKE X-Ray
However many do like it as it is most like 120 year old film!
https://www.zzmedical.com/x-ray-acce...-ray-film.html
Yes. I like the look of old film and the challenge of achieving the look using an uncommon medium infinitely more rewarding.
Some here like very expired film or plates
126 Years old works
When your fridge accidentally defreezes you will have a solid block. I prefer them individually packaged. Better against dust too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
Nice hanger, need one myself for the panoramic dental format. (15x30 cm and 5"x12" (=12,7 x 30,5 cm). I have no idea why they have to make two different sizes.)
I don't keep much film in fridge and none is frozen
My film will be useable far longer than I am
Carestream has recommended storage temp on the box. Basically the same as an America home
Like I have said many times
Freezing is crazy as the freezer will fail
I did get a tip that a Huge Chicago studio was selling everything
the freezer had failed, All the sealed film was OK. I took it all free, the frozen open was garbage
All was Fuji
I am still shooting the 45 Color Fuji as it has superior sealing as compared to Polaroid
10 years out of date
Calumet Giant film chiller was often on the blink
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugen Mezei
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8a33eff8_b.jpgAuto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer
It's been a struggle dialing in Exposure Index for these films while trying to relearn all the forgotten basics of photography. I thought that I could do it using the same subject and adjusting the settings but the light kept changing before I could finish testing. Sometimes it seems like its one step forward two steps back. I am making progress. Anyhow., here are some early images.
MX125 ISO125 f11 1/125
Attachment 235545
Attachment 235546
This one's not a great exposure. I could get either the snow to turn out or the loader to turn out. Not both. Too much bright white and a dark piece of equipment.
MX125 ISO25 f6.7 1/250
Attachment 235547
Attachment 235548
This shot was lucky. I had one film left and shot this in the darkroom entirely under an UV-A light source. Just because.
MX125 ISO125 f5.6 2"
Attachment 235549
Attachment 235550
Useable and ideal are different things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
Of course
Tell us how big is your freezer with picture
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugen Mezei
8X10 X-Ray scanned in color WYSIWYG
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...73d01d51_o.jpgMirror Selfie X-Ray Color Scan by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
14x17 pinhole accidental double-exposure kallitype... Video: https://youtu.be/B9ALQs9dj0Q
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9221dded_h.jpg14x17 Double Exposed Xray Pinhole by Andrew O'Neill, on Flickr
Very very good!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Which one of them?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
At the moment only part of my X-ray is in the freezer, but I intend to buy another one. My color film is all frozen, most of my BW too.
Hello dears,
After many tests of a proper processing method of my Agfa X-ray sheets I came to a good point by using open tray development and spare processed clear sheets placed at the bottom of each tray. Now I have only one thing to overcome: handling marks. I use a glove to touch the sheets for agitation and to pass them from one tray to the other. This is to avoid clamps that could easily scratch the emulsion. I noted that even by paying attention, some sheets have signs of finger with the texture of the glove.
What method do you use to handle the sheets in open tray processing?
Thank you!
Roberto, you could try using a single tray for the entire process. After development, pour out the developer and pour in the stop bath. Then with stop to fix, the same procedure. That way you don't have to touch the film during processing, only when taking it out of the tray at the end.
Generally I am processing 11X14 in 3 smooth bottom trays under red safelight bounced
I don't use gloves, Rodinol 1/100 distilled water, distilled stop, TF5 distilled
As my holders have a generous rebate, I pinch with my tiny fingers only on rebate
Those chems do not bother my bare skin, but I move quickly and wash my fingers very often in wash tanks
ymmv
for tiny format I have special tiny waffle cans and touch nothing as I even dry in the can
I am sensitive to some chems, so I don't use them
Paper I use tongs
I also use various size KODAK film/plate hangers
Glass plates I use a teflon spatula
I use one, flat-bottomed tray for 8x10 and a larger one for 14x17, double-sided film. I wear nitrile gloves. No issues. Another great thing about using one tray is that it is a space-saver, especially for those who have small darkrooms (me). I think I have videos on my youtube channel where I'm working this way...
Do they have any X-Ray film with emulsion on one side only?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
Search for mammography film, it is usually single-sidedQuote:
Originally Posted by LF_Alex
That's a good tip, Koraks. Thank you. What about flipping the film one side to the other to refresh the chemicals on the bottom side of the sheet? Do you flip it or just keep it one side up all the time?Quote:
Originally Posted by koraks
Hello Tin, yes, a rapid fixer is good; I cannot purchase P.F. chemicals in Italy, I use standard thiosulfate based fixer at 1+4 dilution. I noticed that my film (AGFA CP-GU) exhausts the fixer quite fast (faster than standard film), giving the solution a yellowish tint.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
I will definitely touch the sheets at the very edge.
Thank you Andrew, I have a small darkroom too so this thing of one tray for the whole process appeals me a lot! I will search for the video.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
Here below one of the pictures. Note finger tips with the glove texture at the top and right side of the image. I really think that the glove was still wet with the fixer from the previous sheet when I have use it for the next sheet in the developer. I use to wash the glove after processing each sheet; maybe I wash it too fast.
Attachment 235763
Sorry, I meant to add to my previous post that my approach works well for single sided film, not double sided film.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberto Nania
I tried double sided film initially, but after a couple hundred sheets I decided I didn't like how finicky it was in terms of development (evenness, scratches etc) so I moved to single-sided film instead. It's more expensive and harder to get than the double sided film, though.
I also experimented with stripping the backside emulsion off of double-sided film after processing. This worked of sorts, but it's messy, carries the risk of damage to the image side and is an additional processing step, so I never pursued it very far.
Not anymore
I bought a lot when special order were available years ago
I warned for several years that Wet X-Ray is being phased out
Yes industrial X-Ray which is a bit different will survive for steel crack,stress analysis
Quote:
Originally Posted by LF_Alex
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6d1ac2d8_b.jpg18x24 Mammo Sinar Norma 300 Xenar Arista No 2 RC by Nokton48, on Flickr
Second test of 18x24cm Kodak Min-R XRay film developed 18 minutes at 60F Straight replenished Legacy Mic-X in Cesco trays. 300mm Schneider Xenar barrel lens f22 Yellow Filter. Four pops Broncolor C171 Beauty Light Contact Print 8x10 Arista #2 RC Multigrade dev. Again interesting how the red flowers go deep black. Classic Orthochromatic rendition. 8x10/18x24 Sinar Norma
Wonderfull
Thanks Tin Can!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d2d244bc_b.jpg18x24 Sinar Norma 300 Xenar F4.5 Rembrandt Lighting by Nokton48, on Flickr
The cool thing about having multiple Normas, is that you can leave them set up for a while. Getting ready to shoot this one. Classic Rembrandt Lighting, Broncolor Beauty Light pointed straight down from up high as possible. Silver reflector on the floor tilted towards the subject. Lens is 300mm chrome Schneider Xenar, on custom made Norma board. Xenars are lovely to shoot through at near full aperture. The focus blows out behind the front row of petals which I find attractive. Strobe meter says F22 at EI 50 so just one pop will do. Canvas Background is by David Maheu "Kelly Grey" Like it Stormy Grey middle key with no corner vignettes. I can vignette with light if required
The setup for above Mammo exposure ^^^
I have scanned many V700 X-Ray films in color
Try Photoshop in color with Blue Tint X-Ray
There are no rules
X-Ray Film Primer
Given the price of film these days, I thought I would experiment a little with x-ray film for my 8x10. I looked around the site for a primer, but all there is is the massive x-ray thread, so I started going back through that and taking some notes to help me get started. I present those here for the comments and corrections of the experts, and in the hope they will be of some use to other beginners.
Selecting a Film
Double-sided green sensitive film is the most popular, for its qualities and price. https://www.zzmedical.com/ seems like a good vendor, but its also available on Amazon and ebay. At ZZ, 100 sheets of 8x10 is currently $38. Single-sided mammography film is preferred by some for ease of handling, but is more expensive, and harder to find. Pre-cut film (4x5) can be had from some photo suppliers, but is pricey compared to the raw stuff.
Rating the Film (exposure index)
I found people rating the film from EI 6 al the way up to EI 400. An EI of 50 seems about the average. Time of day outdoors matters, as the film is not sensitive to red, so requires more exposure in the red light of early morning and towards sunset.
Taming Contrast
The film has higher contrast than normal film. Contrast can be reduced by using a yellow filter when shooting. When using a yellow filter, add three stops exposure. Contrast can also be reduced by using low-contrast or highly diluted developers
Developing
Film can be developed under a dim red safelight, although it would be good to test your light. There are specific x-ray film safelights available. The emulsion of the film is soft and scratches easily. Fingerprints are also a concern, so hold film by edges or use nitrile gloves. Develop in glass or plexiglass bottomed trays, or pyrex or enamel baking dishes, to reduce potential for scratches. Can be developed using the one tray method, although this may not be as effective for double-sided as opposed to single sided. Other common development methods are mounting on hangers and developing in tanks.
Suggested developers and times for green double-sided film
• Rodinal 1:100 6 minutes at EI 50 68 degrees Corran #6182
• D-76 1:2 7 minutes at EI 50
• D-23 1:2 7 min 30 sec at EI 50 68 degrees Bob Wagner #6185
• Dektol 1:12 75-90 sec 58-60 Aero #6167
After gaining some experience, most workers seem to practice development by inspection.
Using a Filter on your Lightmeter
The following text is from post #6124 (page 613) from Michael R. The idea behind using a cyan filter on the meter would be to make the meter “see” more like the film does. Loosely speaking, an orthochromatic film can’t see red light, so if the meter can’t see red light either, it might give more useful exposure readings for the film. It’s not going to work perfectly but anyway. A cyan filter such as the Wratten 44A (“minus red”) would be one to try. This assumes no filter on the taking lens.
If you use a yellow filter on the taking lens, to attenuate blue, you’re effectively using mostly green light to expose the film, in which case a green filter on the meter would better approximate how the film sees.
These will only be approximate adjustments due to the inherent differences in spectral sensitivities of the meter and film. Obviously, the specific filter used on the taking lens will affect this.
Comparing X-Ray to Regular Film
LFPF Member Andrew O’Neill made a great video comparing regular and x-ray film. This video also shows the development process. The video is available at post #6070, or on youtube at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Vwi...83%87%E3%82%A3
Cutting Film
I didn’t get any notes on this, so if anyone knows a particular post describing cutting film to size, let me know and I’ll add.
I’ve used X-Ray film since about 2008. I think you have a very good summary. The only thing I’d add is that tanning developers such as Pyrocat, ABC Pyro, 510 Pyro, etc. may help reduce scratches.
I have posted my cutting method many times
I use dedicated cheapest Dahle to reduce dust and the unique film holder downer never scratches 12" and 18' does it all
https://www.dahle.com/trimmer/item/12e
One sheet at a time
Mammography film also has an anti-halation layer, which can be helpful, too. I vote for pyrocat-hd: it is helpful for non-silver UV contact printing. Light at the start or the end of the day or "warm" interior lights require more exposure, often much more b/c there's less of the UV/Blue (and maybe green it depends on the film) in the light. I've been without a darkroom for a long time. I need to get back to it.
Great summary Tim,
I just want to add two hints based on my personal experience:
- Pre-processed blank sheets of film may be used on the bottom of regular trays to avoid scrathes, in place of glass or plexiglas.
- Considering the high cost of Metol and D76 in Europe, I use HC110 with good results. This are my personal times:
1+39, 4' at 20°C, tray processing, continuos agitation, film exposed at 25 / 16 iso.
1+63, 7' at 20°C (take into account that higher diluition will run-out faster, make your calculations on the residual strenght based on the amount of the solution when processing multiple sheets with it).
Inviato dal mio SM-A202F utilizzando Tapatalk
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a5e13f91_b.jpgHRU Makiflex Std Mic-X 240 f4.5 Tele-Arton by Nokton48, on Flickr
Plaubel Makiflex Standard camera 240mm F5.5 chrome barrel mount Schneider Tele-Arton at F22. One pop of Broncolor Pulso C171 monolight strobe with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. No fill. 8x10 Fuji HR-U XRay film cut into 4x5s straight Microdol-X replenished in a tray development by inspection under custom red light. 4x5 Lisco Regal holder. 8x10 RC Aristo #2 Multigrade dev Omega DII with diffusion Omegalite head. The background is canvas I painted myself with medium grey water based paint. Applied with a brush
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...12373511_b.jpgMINR XRay Test 1 210mm Componon F22 Two Pops C171 by Nokton48, on Flickr
18x24cm Kodak MIN-R Mammography film cut into 4x5s. Sinar Norma Broncolor C171 with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. Two strobe pops with Sinar Norma Shutter, multiple pops are no problem. Schneider chrome Componon lens at F22. Lisco Regal 4x5 film holder. Legacy Mic-X film dev 8 mins at 68F Aristo 8x10 #2 RC print Multigrade dev. This is fun :)
I like the orchids!
Thanks Fr. Mark !
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...523e2a72_b.jpgHRU Fixing Step Dental Clips 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
I've decided to use these Dental Clips I bought on Ebay, to hold down two sheets in the Cesco flat bottomed trays, and keep them off the bottom, and keeping them from moving around (which scratches!) Here two sheets are in the TD4 Fix. The 8x10 Cesco Flat Bottomed Trays are inexpensive and available from B&H
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e48dc3e5_b.jpgHRU Wash Step Dental Clips 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Here the two sheets are moving into the wash tray. This has caused a lot of grief, if a sheet touches ANYTHING it is scratched with HRU. The sheets are well distanced, off the bottom, and can get a decent wash without getting scratched. XRAY clips are available on Ebay.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...31be3f5e_b.jpgHRU Dry Step Dental Clips 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr
When I go to the dry step, I move both clips to opposite ends. So the water can drain off properly. I have made many runs this way, with only one scratch (my fault). Getting perfect sheets with HRU no defects is not an easy matter. So far I can see no reason to not continue tray processing in this way
I have used dental clips for 30-40 years. They are hard to beat. When used during development I place one on each corner. My source has always been dentists who are moving to digital x-rays, thus free.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7c0defd1_c.jpgcorn husk dolls 2020 update by Jeff Wingard, on Flickr
corn-husk dolls updated for the 2020s
Fuji HR-U 8x10 X ray film at iso100,
in Rodinal 1:50; 9:30 at 68f
Very good!
We had sock monkeys
Quote:
Originally Posted by JefW
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
Hi folks,
I have used Fuji HRU x-ray film in Rodinal (R09) 1:200 for 11 minutes at 20 degrees C with good results. However, I ran out of R09 and have a bottle of Ilfotec DDX handy. Does anybody know or have any details on times and dilution for HRU in DDX?
Thanks in advance,
George.
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
I use these charts for a startQuote:
Originally Posted by George E. Sheils
Thanks TC.
I usually use the Massive Dev Chart but couldn't see anything on it that featured DDX. I know that i can develop by inspection and go from there but I didn't want to re-invent the wheel if someone already has a tried and trusted dilution for the HRU and DDX combination.
You can do it. Aren't you a tech writer for this industry?
I never run out of Rodinol and if I did I would use Ilford PQ
First thing, this thread is insane. Don't know if I have enough time in my life to make it through all of this. Next, thanks for those who have put summary posts in to help us relative newcomers.. ;)
I jumped in and ordered a couple of boxes of 8x10 to give it a try this summer. Still working on the development sequence just yet, but I'm planning on using dip tank hangers in 8x10 to reduce scratching. I have the old Kodak rubber tanks, but at 4gal solution each that is a lot of chems and I doubt I'm going do enough shooting to make it worth while. I'm looking to get the smaller 1 gal stainless type or I'll make my own out of acrylic. We'll see how that goes.
Attachment 239130
I made an Acrylic 1 gal talk for 11x14 that works well. Still a lot of developer, but if I expose all three of my holders, it comes out alright.Quote:
Originally Posted by pitotshock
Just to add my 1 cent tip as i think it was never mentioned before.
For 1 negative at a time, i use stryrofoam trays with great success so far, as they are soft and lightweight.