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It was hard for me to find the one sided. I really don't know what I'm purchasing. No experience with the film or the brands etc so I just got what a lot of people are using and its the Fuji HR-U. Thinking of cutting the corner so I know which side I've been using, shooting, developing, drying, then stripping the one side.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdavis
I don’t believe stripping is ever better
But I also never did it
2X was good enough for real X Rays
Don't strip the film! That is just wasting 50% of the density.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericantonio
Test it!
I used to strip. It makes things more forgiving with regards to scratching.
I stopped because it was a PITA. As long as your exposure/development is done with stripping or not stripping in mind, I don't think it should make any appreciable difference.
I have not seen any explicit tests showing a reduced contrast curve for stripped vs. unstripped either.
Oh man! No way?! Hahah. As you can tell I'm just winging it. I'll have to try both non strip and stripQuote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
It does look like a pain, I watched some vids. I'm guessing an ounce of prevention...(I don't know the rest of the saying cause by the time I heard the first part, I was rolling my eyes at my mom and stopped listening). I'm going to use this film for PT/PD testing. So I have lots to burn and make plenty of mistakes. I'm thinking of the 80/20 rule yah? I figure I can blow away 20% of the box for mistakes and testing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corran
You guys and your tips! You guys rock so much man.
OH wow! I will need to return my Googlin PHD. I can't believe I didn't see that!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Unkefer
I'm going to try something. Was reading about the "developing in a ziplock".
I just took a tray without ridges but rather has tunnels. Don't know what to call them, but they look like dug out hot dogs on the bottom of the tray. Well, I put some water down there just enough to cover it, then lined it with plastic wrap. Took a old test 8x10 sheet and sloshed it around on top of that with more liquid. I think it's gonna work.
Here is is horizontal: ^^^^^water^^^^sheet-of-plastic-wrap{~~~~~developer~~~~film~~~~developer}. The plastic wrap is to create a nice smooth bottom.
Hey Folks,
I am (slowly) working to get into putting together a 14x17 dream. I just bought 200 sheets of film, to push me harder toward completion. I have lots of other bits of it: three lenses, the front standard (with a shutter), bellows, the wood and metal needed to make the camera, and an actual drawn plan for the camera. But I won't be able to make the actual camera for a bit yet, in large part because my son has taken over both my indoor (small) and garage (large) workshops.
What I do already have is a working darkroom (well, usually it's a bathroom, but I've made it easy to convert it). So I'd like to use my 5x7 kit to start experimenting with x-ray film. I have a couple of questions:
1. What is a good safelight to use with Fuji x-ray film? I read this whole thread, but that was nearly a year ago. I've tired searching, but am not succeeding in finding anything very helpful. A pointer to a thread, or actual suggestions would be great.
2. How difficult is it to cut x-ray film down? I am not seeing any 5x7 film for sale anywhere, but see good deals on other sizes. I could get 2 sheets out of one 8x10. Is this something others have done with success? Any suggestions for a specific cutter to use?
Thanks!
Paul, I use these for safelights for x-ray film and paper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/24W-Deep-Re...72.m2749.l2649
I use the 660nm wavelength and find them perfectly safe. You need a driver (power supply) for them available from the same seller. The driver is different depending on whether you use a dimmer or not. I found that I needed a dimmer as my darkroom is small and the output of these units is very bright. I was erring on the side of caution in case there are small amounts of shorter wavelengths that may harm film/paper. With this configuration I have had no fogging of film or paper. For cutting film and paper I use a Dahl rotary trimmer.
Hi Paul,
I'm doing a similar project, working up to 14x17 on x-ray film.
Here's a recent thread on safelights:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...oom-Safe-Light
I tested a few safelights at different distances from the film and found that it is far less tolerant of safelights than paper. As described in the thread, I'm currently using a red LED bounced off the rear wall of my darkroom. The light travels about 6' to the rear will and 12' back to where I am and I keep my body in front of the film when handling it. It is barely bright enough to work. I'd love to know if there is something that can be used more directly without fogging the film.
There's no problem physically cutting the stuff. A paper cutter will allow you to get straight cuts to the required size for your film holders. I have been using a guillotine style cutter but I am considering buying a rotary trimmer with good guides that can be pre-set because using the guillotine in very dim light is a little scary. That said, you are likely to scratch the film when cutting it. I have been draping tracing paper over the cutter and I am very careful to lift and place the film rather than drag it into place. I also wear rubber gloves while handling it and move it minimally. The emulsion is extremely delicate and it's on both sides. For example, gently rubbing tracing paper on it will scratch the emulsion, pushing it into your film holders will scratch the emulsion, etc.