https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.co...x15d.jpg?raw=1Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugen Mezei
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https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.co...x15d.jpg?raw=1Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugen Mezei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerostigmat
Smooth, flat-bottomed trays are perfectly safe with double-sided films. I got rid of my hangers (for 8x10), as way too much solutions were required to process. Gentle agitation is key. Since switching to flat-bottomed trays, I've never had any scratching. I process 8x10 and 14x17.
Doublegood!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
What is the source of the whole plate film? Cut down from larger or purpose bought that size? I've been figuring that since I don't have holders or a camera for that size (yet) I might just shoot 8x10 and mask to come up with whole plate if I wanted to experiment more with the format. Alternatively, I might cut something down to that film size and magnetically or gaffer's tape it into an 8x10 holder. There's something about that shape that I really like.
Whole plate film is offered on the Ilford Ultra Large Format (ULF) Campaign. All the info is here including the a list of participating dealers. https://www.ilfordphoto.com/annual-u...ndow-for-2022/
Roger
Thanks for the responses guys...Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Thoms
I had thought to cut down existing hangers but had hoped someone had an easier / simpler solution...:( I'll keep looking, perhaps on auction sites overseas.
So glad smooth trays are working well for you, that's awesome!! :D
I've been processing X-ray film since the 1980's. Professionally for decades and then for fun over the last 15 years. Unfortunately Ive never found any other method beside tanks and hangers that gave me the results I'm looking for.
Your X-Ray experience is very welcome here
We have been flying blind for years
Please tell us how it WAS done and how it is now
I use Arkay tanks and hangers with gas burst
One shot Rodinol, water stop and TF5 fix seems to last forever, I change it out by surface area
Please
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerostigmat
Sounds like you have it under control :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
My experience started with hangers in a large darkroom tank (medical) that housed Dev/stop/fix and would easily fit 14x17 chest films. It looked like a deep stainless garage sink, 20in wide by 20 inches deep by 20+ inches tall on a stand that bought it up to approx 32 inches from the ground. Then years later in a hospital environment we had a automated system. Our tech managed that so Im not really sure of the inner workings / details. When I started doing this at home for fun I went back to tanks as I didn't shoot enough film to justify a processor. Not to mention my wife would probably have drawn the line at that one :) I did try trays and bags and ended up with more scratches and artifacts than I wanted to deal with.
For developer I use Dektol, diluted 1:12, development times from 75-90 seconds. Agitation and temp have been the keys for me, and it varies with film type. Also cooling the developer down to 58-60 degrees helps with contrast.
Initally I tried the blue sensitive film for pictorial use, but didn't like it and have used the green sensitive emulsion ever since. I only shoot this stuff on cloudy days when cast shadows are at a minimum. Recently I did try some R09 one shot developer and got favorable results. But I'm not really that keen on the 30 minute development time. Dektol has spoiled me over the years, and the older I get... the less patience I seem to have. :)
Here's a couple of examples from my flickr page, Redwood trees are with Dektol and the gas mask was with RO9.
Just so you know I'm not a poser ;):D
Cheers,
Jonathan.Attachment 228995Attachment 228996
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7c55c011_b.jpg18x24 Mammo Shortie Sawed Off Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr
This is a test shot (my Shorty Norma) French Kodak 18x24cm Mammo Film, processed in D23 1:1. Taking camera is my new Annie/Avedon inspired 8x10 Norma. I applied 30 degrees of front and rear swing, the Norma original recessed lensboard is sharp all the way across the field. I like how the DOF drops off with the 360mm f5.6 Norma Symmar. There appears to be highlight blooming, which I find kind of attractive. Best thing about this film was that it was not at all expensive. And I have a lot of it
My "Shorty Sawed-Off Norma" has a basic rail cut down, to just accomodate a 120mm lens. Here it is shown with the 47mm f8 Super Angulon, which I am looking forward to using a lot with 2x3 and 6x9. This is not a telephoto camera, but I can easily lift and carry it with one hand without strain. The lowly Star-D tripod is sturdy enough with this setup, given proper time to settle down. I cut both ends off a basic Norma rail with my Lil Machine Shop Bandsaw. So it is now simply a hollow tube perfect length for Field and Architecture.
Cesco Tray developed under deep deep red safelight. 6.5 minutes at 20C
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bb3e5fe0_b.jpgWild Apple Tree Maki II HRU Handheld 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Handheld HRU 6.5cmx9cm XRay photography. Plaubel Makina II with Plaubel Makina Yellow Filter 1/50 at F6.0 Exposure determined by guess and experience so far. Replenished Legacy Mic-X 12 minutes at ambient. Neg is overexposed which is not right but very promising as I will decrease exposure by one and two stops next time. Also will reduce developing time to eight minutes which is more like it but this is working OK so far. Arista #2 8x10 Print Omega Dii Diffusion head laser aligned. Multigrade dev
I just mixed up a gallon of straight Dektol so I'm trying HRU in it 1:12 next for ninety seconds. Should be interesting