97, but I have 3 sets tins, 1995, 97, 03. It's an iPod shot of RC paper contact print. The 11x14 X-Ray CSG double sided developed in Rodinol 1-100 tray for 8 minutes. No scanning, I prefer prints.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdelung
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97, but I have 3 sets tins, 1995, 97, 03. It's an iPod shot of RC paper contact print. The 11x14 X-Ray CSG double sided developed in Rodinol 1-100 tray for 8 minutes. No scanning, I prefer prints.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdelung
Thats a big one :) Thanks for detail :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
What size are normal 4x5 negatives, exactly? The guillotine I'm using isn't very sharp or precise, and my negatives end up rather irregular. It's preventing me from being able to use the 2509n Jobo reel I've got. So far I've just been chopping about .25 inches off each edge and they barely fit the holders. Is that incorrect?
I use a 'real' 4X5 neg as template, especially when I can't see the ruler. Lights out.Quote:
Originally Posted by senderoaburrido
0.25" off 4X5 is way too much. I suggest trying 4.9X3.9" as a start and most likely that is too small also. 1/16th off is about right.
I measured HP5, but my device is poor. Looks like 4.93X3.93,
Getting the film squarely cut can also be an issue.
Tape a perfectly 90 degree stop to your cutter. Cut 12 pieces to that size. Put them in a very darkplace, reset your production stop for the other dimension and it should work.
Use 2 pieces of white Dymo label-maker tape to mark the cut width and length on you guillotine cutter, using a sheet of real 4×5 as a template for placing the marks. Work under a red safelight, located not too close to your work area (even safelights can fog film).Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
I use a Dahle 15E Vantage Series Trimmer, which has a rubber clamp that drops onto the workpiece when you make the cut and keeps it from shifting about. It also features a moveable stop. I'm sure there are other, comparable cutters available, but this one has served me well.
The guillotine I bought was/is a pile of poo; it won't cut square and the guide is basically pointless. It's similar to the Dahle you mention but lacks the clamp; without that clamp it wants to move the work around as it cuts.
Chopping the 8x10 in half makes it too wide.
Neil
I use a 12" Dahle chopper, the holder-down thing is absolutely the best I have seen and does not damage emulsion. If fact I bought an 18" also. Here (USA) they are very affordable. German company I believe and made in China I assume, but cannot find out either...Quote:
Originally Posted by barnacle
I have a Made in UK Rotatrim, but it's better for other things, not negatives. Nice trimmer but different.
I second the vote for the Dahle, guillotine. The hold down thingy works great, mine has a rotating blade guard to reduce amputations. I bought mine 30 years ago works great. I haven't cut film but it always did a nice job on paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Moe
Best Mike
As an aside - I managed a couple of shots yesterday on the Agfa Green.
An image stuck to the film but it's so far less than wonderful: exposed at 64 ASA, one interior and one exterior, and both look seriously underdeveloped - eight minutes in R09 at 100:1 - mind you, the R09 is somewhat ancient and rattles when I move the bottle. I've discussed this before.
I think it's time to splash out on some new developer :)
I have images taken at the same time on Adox CHS50 which I have not yet developed, so it'll be interesting to see a comparison.
Neil
p.s. the film has an interesting blue colour in the base.